The delicious barbecue smell attracts all drivers and passengers, we also serve ourselves at the buffet, the meal is included in the ticket price. We can stay in the car while driving, all four of them soon close their eyes at the gentle swaying of the waves. Against 21.00 We finally arrive on the mainland, schnell werden alle LKWs heraus rangiert und schon haben wir wieder festen Boden unter den Füßen. A few kilometers further there is a large one behind a gas station, very littered parking lot, no matter, perfect for one night.
The next morning we'll take a look around, where we ended up here – and, it looks a bit like a garbage dump ?? It's always really frightening, how much sh…… lying around everywhere, we simply cannot and do not want to get used to it.
Today we continue to Culiacan, the road leads through a very fertile landscape, Corn grows on the huge fields, Potato, Sugar cane and lots of tomatoes in between. Huge trucks, fully loaded with the red vegetables stand in front of a large canning factory – so this is where our ketchup comes from :).
Arrived in Culiacan we head for a Walmart, we will spend the night here. During the walk we discover a pretty city park along the Rio Humaya, the dogs are excited, that the water finally no longer tastes salty. A trip to Walmart ends the day, because we have to get up early tomorrow, let's go to bed early for once.
Tuesday is our workshop appointment at MAN, on time at 9.00 we stand in front of the gate, we are immediately surrounded by all employees. Henriette is parked in the hall, Meanwhile, I walk around the block. The area here is poor, run down, incredibly littered and around every corner a new street dog gang awaits us. The sun is now beating down in the sky, after two hours of walking my boys go on strike, they don't want to anymore. Finding a place to sit down here is a real challenge – at some point we discover a small soccer field, at the edge of which there is a bench under a tree. Here we can take a break and spend the waiting time. Meanwhile, Henriette gets a plate mounted on the driver's cab, on which we can set up the Starlink antenna. Also the air dryers, that we ordered in Hermosillo, are exchanged, however, the mechanics determine, that the third Airdryer is also defective and would have to be replaced. The spare part is not in stock, must be ordered ?? We also had a new error message yesterday, Apparently it's the rear wheel sensor – this sensor is only available in Mexico City, it must also be ordered. And Easter holidays are also starting tomorrow – that means, that we won't have the next appointment until 14 get days – so once again a complete travel plan change. Quite frustrated, we drive to our Walmart parking lot, consider,. what we can do in the next few days.
Since we unexpectedly have to pass the time here, let's have a city day. In the park we soon discover a new animal: Lots of iguanas lie hidden on the branches of the trees, we are fascinated by these primal animals. Two kilometers further we come to the Catedral Basilica, a typical South American church. The hustle and bustle around it is just beautiful: lots of shoeshine boys are waiting for customers, Stalls offer sweets, drinks and tacos, next to it are rosaries, Selling images of saints and palm fronds, a colorful one, loud bustle. Our next destination: the botanical garden, lt. Google is supposed to be a really nice facility. Half an hour later we are in front of the entrance, but are not allowed in, Dogs are forbidden here. Aggravating, but there's nothing you can do, so we start our way back without having achieved anything.
We've got to drag the boys behind us now, they're pretty much done. A small cafe is the perfect place for a break, we strengthen ourselves with a salad, the fur noses can all 4 stretch your legs out. Strengthened like this, we can easily make the way back to Henriette, sleeping on the sofa. We talk to Frank and Corina for a long time, a couple, that we don't know personally, the contact was made through Anke and Mitch. The two have been traveling for a long time, so far with her phoenix, have now also bought a MAN. They're currently cruising around Florida, then want to start in Montevideo in winter. There are so many similarities, that we almost 2 Hours together chatting and promising, to meet us somewhere along the way.
We just want to make ourselves comfortable, then there's a knock on the window, an interested Mexican asks us out. After shopping, he comes into our car with his little daughter, tells us a lot about Mexico, offers his help for all emergencies and gives tips for the onward journey. For the evening he invites us to a small bar in town, we decline with thanks, since we're all pretty much knocked out. are.
today, Maundy Thursday, we want to continue to the coast. We're just packing everything up, when a nice young man comes to us and invites us to a place at the lake near here. The site belongs to his father-in-law, here we could stand still and safe. He's going to show us photos – and yes, that looks really nice. The lake is on our route, so we decide, let's take a look. In fact, we end up in a little paradise: 3 small peninsulas were created by the family – with palm trees, bridges, seating options, palapas ……… very idyllic. No 5 minutes we stand here, there is already a police car next to us. The two policemen come out, ask, how we are – and what we are doing here. Fortunately, our host Joel has just driven up and enlightened the two officers. They're friendly right away, apologize for their behavior and drive back. Joel explains to us, that people are very scared here, since there had been a few shootouts between the drug cartels lately. Since our Henriette looks a bit like a military vehicle, a local must have called the police right away, to check us out – now we understand that a little bit better.
Joel comes by again later, to invite us to dinner: there is grilled fish, freshly caught from the lake – that sounds great! We'll have our coffee in peace, then we stroll together to the enchanting little private island of the family. As always, Frodo and Quappo steal the show, they are the center of attention, are petted and photographed by everyone. Griselda, Joel's wife, puts a cold corona in everyone's hand, the evening couldn't start any better. The tasty one comes later, fresh fish with tacos and salads on the table, it tastes great. Again and again Gris brings Cerveza supplies, there isn't much in the little bottle. Meanwhile, the full moon has pushed over the mountain, it's a magical ambiance. The empty bottles on the table keep growing, the mood getting better. At some point we actually reached the very last beer, immediately fall into our bed tired and a bit tipsy. The music, that sounds all around from the radios, doesn't bother us, we fall asleep immediately.
The next morning, Hans-Peter lets the drone fly briefly, to take some nice photos of the islands.
Shortly thereafter, Joel and Gris come by with their two huskies, together we go for a walk with the four-legged friends on a leash. A short time later we let them off the leash, but Frodo doesn't think the other two boys are that great – injury.
Oskar invites us to a boat tour, very slowly we chug across the lake and along the river. On the trees we discover perfectly camouflaged iguanas, Cranes strut along the edge, lots of birds startle out of the reeds.
We feel like we are in the Amazon, now only one crocodile is missing – actually live well here 2 Exemplare im See.
At the end, Oskar rescues a lifeless iguana from the water, shakes him, to get the water out and put him in the sun to recover. The brother-in-law Carlos joins them, he really wanted to go one more round with Henriette – he is of course welcome to do so.
After a warm farewell to our Mexican friends, we continue towards the sea. Joel doesn't take it, us with his motorbike to the MEX 15 to accompany, he wants to be sure, that nothing happens to us on the route (We're apparently in drug territory here ?)
Countless pickups come to us on the way to our planned parking space, quads and motorbikes, that doesn't mean anything good ?? In fact, the way to the beach is totally parked, it was not possible for our fat Henriette to get through. Semana Santa is arguably used by locals for beach outings, Used for picnics and camping at the playa. We struggle to get out of the hustle and bustle, we too, that the next beach will be no different. In fact, Las Labradas is no less chaotic, i am proud of my husband, that he can do it, to get out of here backwards. We make a spontaneous decision, to spend the night in the parking lot of the museum. At our request, if we can do that, we get a friendly shake of the head – very good. Here we spend a very, very quiet night.
As discussed with the nice museum attendant, Let's go to the museum the next morning: it is a unique site: here there is about 640 Petroglyphen, the oldest are over 4.500 year old. A small information room provides information about the finds, then you can even admire the stones by the sea. A magical place, where a lava flow reaches the sea right at the Tropic of Cancer and has been a sacred site for thousands of years. The inhabitants of this place were able, to make calculations for the solstice, symbols of the sun, Spirals and people are marked on the stones.
After this journey through time we continue – this time towards the mountains. Shortly before our arrival in Concordia we still have to be a little annoyed: the descent to the town is right in front of the toll station, we don't realize that, drive through the station and pay. 500 Meters further on we turn to Henriette, drive – who would have thought – directly into the next toll station: and have to pay again despite tough discussions with Google Translator ?? On me, the donation of 15.00 € to the mexican road construction is definitely a good investment.
Behind Concordia we stand in a dry river bed, all alone and absolutely calm.
Easter Sunday is used, to run the washing machine, Hans-Peter uses the washing water to scrub the salt off Henriette and wash the windows, now it's really light again !!
At noon we continue on the old one, hardly ever used MEX40 – a beautiful serpentine route – in die Berge. The road is in surprisingly good condition and has little traffic, most people use the new one, paid MEX40d. We find it close 2.000 m a great place in the forest, a little Canada feeling comes up. We even discover a small hiking trail here, the dogs are happy, to be able to walk again in pleasant temperatures and on the forest floor.
After an extremely quiet night we drive the next stage of this beautiful road.
Incomprehensible, how many turns she makes. We read somewhere, that this route should be one of the most beautiful motorcycle routes in the world – we can agree with that. After just under 2 hours we reach La Ciudad, a small town in the mountains, now we are up 2.700 m climbed up!! We drive to the campground of Parque National Mexiquillo, a huge natural park in the Sierra Madre Occidentale with hundreds of pitches.
There are very unique rock formations and (actually) a beautiful waterfall. However, the signage or. the marking of the paths a disaster, if we're lucky, we'll just start walking. In fact, we reach the waterfall – albeit without a drop of water. It's probably dry season, also the attractions like zipline, Souvenir stands and kiosks are all deserted. Just a few ATVs zipping through the park, already at the entrance we saw a lot of these fun vehicles, which you can borrow here. Alright, nevertheless a really nice place with very pleasant temperatures.
The next morning we discover the pretty one, kleinen See und viele weitere Wege durch Wald und Feld. However, we find the price of 20,- A bit overpriced for one night, There is nothing on the site other than garbage cans ?? Oh well, what is not, can still be !!
Our goal for today: Durango, the approx. 520.000 Capital of the state of Durango with a population of the same name. The historic center is in the year 2010 classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO – we don't want to miss that.
Shortly before the city we pass an accident site, a minibus lies on the roof, People walk around screaming and confused. we stop, help with water, Blankets and sleeping mat, Hans-Peter lends a hand, get the last occupant out of the vehicle. Shortly thereafter, the police and the military arrive, the soldiers provide first aid and secure the scene of the accident. 20 Minutes later, the first ambulance arrives and transports the woman, who was last pulled out of the vehicle, ab. There's nothing more we can do, so we continued our journey.
When we arrive at our destination, we head for a supermarket, buy one first, patiently answer the questions of the many amazed Mexicans and then ask, whether we are still here in the parking lot for 2 – 3 allowed to stand for hours. No problem, so we walk relaxed from here into the city center – we really like it here. We feel like we have arrived in a typical South American city, colorful life can be seen on the Plaza de Armas, the churches are overloaded with gold and pomp, the market halls are as chaotic as we used to be 40 have known for years. At a market stall we try a dish made from corn kernels, peppers and chili – after the first bite our mouth burns, it's hot as hell. To compensate, we treat ourselves to a few sweets afterwards, greasy churros – they are simply irresistibly delicious. A small orchestra is preparing for a performance on the music pavilion, the chairs provided fill up very quickly. Let's listen to the first song, then we'll make our way back. In the meantime we have received an invitation to dinner again via Insta – the people here are really super friendly.
We lost track of time a bit because of all the city strolls, so let's hurry, reach our campsite before dark. We can't quite do it, driving in the dark here is really exhausting and dangerous – apropo, Did I mention the millions of topes?, who simply appear here on every street without warning ?? These are very common, sneaky bumps, to take the speed out – very effective, if you miss one, you feel it intensely (and the axis thanks you for it).
Luckily there is still a night watchman on the campsite and unlocks the gate for us – we are the only guests today. Right next to us is a large swimming pool area with 9 Pools, partly with hot thermal water – we can use it all: It's too late for us today, Tomorrow is another day. The house dog Tamara immediately joined us and lay outside our door all night, he also turns the morning round together with us 🙂
Really amazing: actually already flow against 8.30 Watch some extended Mexican families in the pool, equipped with tons of cool boxes, Grills, Air mattresses, swimming rings, children and grandmothers!! Employees bring stacks of plastic chairs out of the shed, Children jump straight into the water while they are still dressed, the men set up the tents and grills first, more and more people are pouring in. It's a fun one, chaotic mess, we have something to watch all day.
Hans-Peter fills up our water tank – for that he needs for the 250 liters over 5 hours – the water pressure is not the strongest :). We took our bedding and dog blankets to the laundry, a 18.00 clock everything should be ready. A really relaxed day, a neighbor gave us a biscuit ice cream, another brings us one 2 Kilo sack of peanuts!! The area empties again in the late afternoon, some of the laundry is done too, we'll get the rest tomorrow – apparently not everything has dried up. The evening is used for an extended visit to the “Bathtub” , all alone we enjoy the warm thermal water – grandiose.
Thursday, the 13.04.23 – it goes to the film studios of Durango!! North of the city were about 130 shot movies, Stars like Burt Lancaster, Charlton Heston, Audrey Hepburn and John Wayne called it home.
A little one is waiting for us, nice amusement park with a main street from the wild west. Alles ist sehr hübsch gemacht, many shops invite you to stroll, photos are taken with cowboys and Indians, die Omis und Kinder tragen bunten Federschmuck, are made up and everyone is having fun! Und es gibt noch eine richtig lustige Show, die Indianer und Cowboys nehmen sich selbst aufs Korn (unfortunately we don't understand the actors, it does not matter anyway )! Finally, I'll also by an Indian “towed”, he wants to know where i come from and when i say ” from Germany” bekommen wir einen tosenden Applaus.
Our boys took good care of Henriette, only the clean duvet is messed up again – who was probably lying on the bed ?? Now we have to find our pitch for today, unfortunately our Erna guides us to a completely wrong place. So again 15 Kilometers back, there is simply no way to go along the way. Next to the MEX40 is a cattle grid, That looks good. Henriette is standing in the middle of a cow or cow. horse pasture, there is so much space here, that there is no problem. When walking through the herd, we feel a little queasy, but the big furry animals keep chewing relaxed. At night we have a magnificent view of the illuminated Durango, of course with a sparkling starry sky.
At breakfast, the cup is blown away by the storm, it's a little uncomfortable. The onward journey is also in this wind, exhausting in the narrow streets and oncoming trucks. We head for the Parque Natural Mexiquillo, where we already spent a quiet night on the way there. Here we hike in the afternoon through the bizarre rocky landscape, Frodo thinks the sand is so great, that he rolls in it for minutes and ends up looking like a Weimaraner – a clear case for the outdoor shower. Quite offended, he then retreats to his bed and sulks to himself.
In fact, raindrops drip on our roof at night – what's that about ?? In the morning everything is fine again: the sun comes out from the clouds, we are reassured. On the morning round we hear soft howling dogs – and find a litter of little puppies in a burrow. Frodo and Quappo immediately bolt, they must be afraid, that they have to share their sofa with another buddy!
Since there are still Easter holidays in Mexico, we decide, not to continue to the beach. We equip the little ones 2. visit from, lay them or. a large portion of dog food to mum and wish them all the best. A quick coffee, then we set off on the most beautiful part of the route, drive comfortably along the serpentine road and enjoy the stunning view. Almost all the time we are at a level of 2.500 m, to the right and left it goes steeply uphill or downhill. downhill. Hans-Peter has to drive with concentration, no mistake will be forgiven here. On the way there is no reasonable place for the night, this is how we head for the dry river bed in front of Concordia. The outside thermometer shows the same 10 degree more, the chairs and dogs are looking for a shady spot. In a bikini dinner – we haven't had that in a very long time 🙂
Sunday morning starts with pleasant 25 City, it's getting warmer every minute. Today we want to drive to Culiacan, because we are relaxed in time, let's take the free road (MEX15 free). It runs parallel to the paid MEX 15 (share), However, it is narrower and only one lane. Our Mexican friend Joel recommended the village of El Quelite to us, a little detour from 10 Kilometers. Absolute chaos reigns just behind the large entrance gate: Lots of stalls are set up on the left and right of the main street, motorbikes jostle in between, Busse, horses and hundreds of people – first of all nothing works anymore !! Turning around is out of the question, we have to go through it for better or worse. Somehow the tangle is slowly unraveling, the people are all totally relaxed, wave and call out to us in a friendly manner. Hans-Peter manages it, Get Henriette out of the crowd without injuries and find a parking space.
On foot with the boys we venture into the chaos, it really is a really pretty one, colorful, neat village. The people are all super friendly, Frodo and Quappo are once again being petted by little girls.
In the back of your mind, however, is the knowledge, that we have to get out of here again – we cannot discover an alternative road. It's so hot now, that the dogs drag their tongues on the floor after half an hour – only the way back to the air-conditioned Henriette helps. Strengthened with a cup of coffee, Hans-Peter directs our girl safely back onto the main road – tel, that was intense.
The rest of the route goes well, but here, too, full concentration is required from the driver, since the road has no hard shoulder on the right and left. We find our Walmart parking lot in our sleep, really good, if you already know a city. The evening round in Parque Las Riberas is great fun, this is where the townspeople spend a cozy Sunday evening barbecuing, to play, Cycle, laugh, talk, drink, essen …….. – you just feel good here! The kitchen is cold today, We buy a delicious pizza at Walmart, everyone likes it, the boys get the last piece as a bedtime treat – they would even do a somersault for that.
On Mondays we place a supply- and rest day. Hans-Peter bought a few little things at the hardware store (including hose clamps), they are now being installed. We had the problem when filling up with water, that we are right on the first track 15 – 20 liters lost. Now my husband has fitted the overpressure hose with the hose clamp, so this problem is solved.
In the late afternoon we walk the dogs through our favorite park, unfortunately I put on my newly bought shoes today – that takes revenge immediately: after a while I feel it, that the straps rub, I have to pad the spots with plaster and speed, anyway I have two big blisters!! Arrived at our cafe we eat a little something, the dogs fall asleep soundly on their blankets. The crossing on the huge ferry only lasts, however, we have to wonder, that one for 2 Dishes can take sooooo long – but no problem, we have time.
The alarm clock has to be switched on on Tuesdays, a 8.00 we want to be in the workshop. Sure we are 5 minutes before at the gate, surprisingly (I wouldn't have expected that) the employees are already there and Henriette is treated immediately. The third Airdryer is replaced, as is the speed sensor for the right rear wheel.
I go for a ride with the boys in the neighboring district, it's really exhausting for both of them, because at least three dogs are running barking towards us from every house. To relax, we look for our spot on the sports field, there is water here, food and the afternoon nap. Hans-Peter reports via WhatsApp, that the control module is defective, the new part won't be available until tomorrow – also, one more night at walmart. In the evening we head for our café for the third time, as dogs are not allowed in the other restaurants around. Anyway, the service is very happy, that we come to her for the third time. We are almost done with the small menu, everything was very delicious.
On Wednesdays we all go on a big stroll through Culiacan, discover really nice ones, very authentic market halls, other churches and parks. We are impressed, that everyone here is also extremely enthusiastic about our boys, we hear from all sides “very nice, big dogs”. One last iced coffee in ours “hangout”, then the employee from the MAN workshop actually comes to the Walmart parking lot and brings us the brand new control module- what a service!
So, now everything is done, we pack up and leave. We asked our Mexican friend Joel, if we can spend another night on his beautiful island – the answer came immediately, that we are of course welcome to come. So we are an hour later in front of the gate, Oskar comes straight up on his motorbike and unlocks the door. He greets us so warmly, that we really feel very welcome, over a beer we talk a little more gibberish together.
After the last few nights in the Walmart parking lot, this is pure relaxation: except for the chirping of birds, you hear nothing here, we are standing here all alone.
20.04.2023: today we can do ours 38. celebrate wedding anniversary – incredible, how quickly the years have flown by. Oskar comes with me the next morning 2 big coconuts, a very warm farewell. Continue towards the beach, in El Pozole we find a deserted one, miles of beach, however, we cannot drive all the way up by car – otherwise we would immediately dig in. So, to be on the safe side, we stand a little further away from the beach, just walk the route. In the evening, to celebrate the day, we enjoy a bottle of white wine from the Cetto winery and have a round.
The next morning, a resident of the village comes by, he is complaining, that our dogs had frightened his children and urges us, to leave the place. Boys are usually relaxed and sweet, but when we stand in one place for a couple of hours and then someone comes by out of nowhere, attack them. The children ran very close to our car yesterday, so both dogs rushed forward and barked at her. On the one hand we are happy about this waking instinct, on the other hand, sometimes it's just stupid – no idea, how we should teach the boys the right way ??? On me, we wanted to keep going, so we just pack up faster.
There is water in Mazatlan, the town is supposed to be nice too, so we steer Henriette there. We cannot park at the first shop, the second water loading works very well. The seller helps us, to assemble our hose, the water pressure is great, so are after 10 minutes both tanks full again. Now we control the parking lot at the Malecon (boardwalk) an – we can see from afar, that a huge circus has set up its tents on this square. The parking attendant won't let us drive into the parking lot opposite – We do not know, why ?? In order not to trigger total traffic chaos, Hans-Peter simply continues on the road along the beach. This allows us to get an idea of the city, see the huge, crowded beaches, tourists everywhere, it reminds a bit of Mallorca!
The route takes us all the way around the peninsula, on which Mazatlan is built around, a perfect city tour. We don't want to park anymore, the hustle and bustle was enough for us from the driver's cab. Ein paar Kilometer hinter der Stadt finden wir ein Plätzchen nach unserem Geschmack mitten in einem Kokospalmenhain, right on the beach, not a soul far and wide. Here we make ourselves comfortable, walk along the beach, plunge into the wonderfully refreshing Pacific Ocean!
It's decided soon, that we will stay here one day, You just have to watch out for sunburn here! On Sundays we call home, found out about the death of dear father Ernst from Markus, who unexpectedly passed away peacefully. That reminds us again, that our beautiful life cannot be taken for granted, we should enjoy every day.
Further travel planning is pending: there is still so much to see, so we decide with a heavy heart, to leave the coconut palm idyll. We pack up around noon, it's back on the road. Two hours later we reach Acaponeta, a small, very run down, original place. We drive in easily on the big main road, but the road is getting narrower and narrower, the cables lower – we could have guessed !!!! With great difficulty we find our way out of the chaos (To make matters worse, there are still many one-way streets here) out and can park Henriette at the side of the road. We explore the town in a relaxed manner 12 legs, stroll in the church square, find the “Malecon”, see the first free-flying parrot and are a bit shocked, how run down, everything is poor and shabby here.
As before, people are everywhere, super friendly to us, of course we attract attention with our two fur faces like colorful dogs. We eat a few tacos on the side of the road in the church square – they are optionally available with beef- or chicken meat, with chorizo or offal. We boldly test all varieties !!! So no cooking today, full we walk back home. We don't want to stand at the side of the road overnight, that's how we drive 2 Kilometers further to the large Pemex station. Lots of truckers are already parking here, so let's just join. Of course it won't be a quiet night, nevertheless we sleep soundly.
After breakfast we continue our journey, on the free MEX15 towards San Blas.
The landscape changes with every kilometer, it's getting greener and greener. Hundreds of mango trees stand to the right and left, surrounded by huge coconut trees, soon we are right in the jungle. The street is getting narrower and narrower, Henriette's height is particularly troublesome, branches are constantly sweeping across our roof. From time to time it also rattles violently, a few mangoes landed on the roof.
After a number of switchbacks and many scrapes on the sides, we reach El Cora, a mini-village with nice garlands of flags hanging over the streets. Two garlands unfortunately land on our roof, so decorated we reach our destination: the end of the street in the middle of the mango- and jackfruit plantation. From here there is a small hike to the Cora waterfalls, we are excited, whether this adventurous journey was worth it at all ?? Immediately afterwards we see the waterfall, we quickly descend and find magnificent natural pools, where you can swim great. Yes indeed, it was really worth it ! On the warm stones we dry in seconds, soon we have to be clear again, fresh water. The boys are happy too, that the water is not too salty. Back at the car we listen to the chirping of crickets and the chirping of birds, otherwise you hear nothing.
The next day passes (again) completely different than planned: actually we wanted to drive on slowly after breakfast – but suddenly we are parked !! Before us have themselves 2 cars placed, we can't get past them, without the branches of a tree, that juts deep into the street, the abzu story ?? Also, let's make the best of it and just stay here one more day!! The time is used, to book the flight to Germany for July, After a long search, you actually find a suitable offer at a reasonable price. We were surprised, since the flights from the USA to Germany are much more expensive than in the opposite direction. It probably has something to do with taxes, which are higher in the US – Learned something again.
In the afternoon we make our way back to our bathing pool, cool off and shower directly in the waterfall – genial. In the evening we park Henriette to be on the safe side, so that we don't get parked again the next day – you never know.
After a relaxed breakfast the next morning, we drive back the route, We now refer to Henriette as a mango harvester, so many fruits have fallen at the grazing of the branches on our roof. Also the next streets are not intended for giants as big as us, the branches just all hang very low. After a jungle ride, supplies are replenished in Las Varas, Henriette refueled and stocked up on beer supplies. Via a small detour we come to Altavista, an earlier archaeological site, which is no longer maintained.
After a hike from 3 kilometers we actually find this site, old signs point to the petroglyphs. Above 2.000 Findings have been discovered here, dated from the years 2.000 – 2.300 before Christ. The little-known tribe of the Tecoxquin lived here and these symbolic elements of everyday life, like grain, Regen, Fertility and health engraved in lava rock. Also, offerings for good harvests were and are made here, on a rock we found some strange things like jam, cigarettes and candy ?????
At the end we meet 3 Mexican, bathing in a small water hole here, listen to music and have built a small altar ? They give us roasted cocoa beans, that taste really good. it's a really peculiar one, mystical place.
On our way we discover new types of fruit: passion fruit, Cheremoyas und Guanabanas – everything seems to thrive in this tropical climate.
To our stand there are now only 18 Kilometer – actually everything relaxed. However, we need for the stretch over 1,5 hours – the road is a challenge again: eng, branches from above, potholes from below, curvy and it also goes up steeply- and down – full concentration of driver and Henriette. Just before nightfall we arrive at the “Hot Springs Nuevo Ixtlan” an: Hot pools in the middle of nowhere – incredible. Let's take a quick look around here, decide but, try the bathtubs tomorrow.
Spa day on Thursday: right after breakfast we go to the entrance, get for 3,- €/person a wristband and can choose a bathing pool for the whole day. Our pool is near Henriette, so the boys can watch relaxed. while we soak. Our pool is really very hot, perfect bath temperature! Throughout the day we jump into the water from time to time, really feel pure. However, it's so dusty in the parking lot and on the trails, that our feet are dirty again. All the same, it was a very relaxing day.
Friday morning is already very busy: pickups with 8 Man crew stand next to us, first clear all provisions for half an hour, Chipstüten, Coke bottles, the obligatory plastic chairs and freezers from the car. Mama immediately makes sandwiches for everyone – the lifeguard is also served. Together with all clothes we go into the pools, the mariachi music sounds from the loudspeaker. Lots of Mexicans – especially the women – have a few extra pounds on their hips, but nobody stops that, skin tight, wearing cropped t-shirts, all are very self-confident and proud of their figures.
We slowly pack up and head back with a bit of concern – the 2 Kilometers to the main road were extremely hard, one thick branch in particular hung in the middle of the path ?
Hans-Peter manages it with precision work, to get under the green roof and we breathe a sigh of relief. However, we rejoiced too soon – the next 20 Kilometers aren't much better, again and again we bump into the hanging branches. The road meanders up quickly 1.500 Meter, everything is green, Agaves grow in the fields.
After what feels like an eternity, we finally come up with one “normal road” – what a boon. A Mexican gave us the tip for the thermal springs, that we should have a look at the little town of San Sebastian, a small, pretty mountain village – a so-called pueblo magico – with age, very typical building substance. In Magic Town (magical place) is a town in Mexico, which was awarded as particularly worth seeing because of its typical and well-kept character. Total there 121 magical town – so we still have a lot to do !
Luckily there is a good option before entering the village, Parking Henriette on a wide street in the shade. We stroll through the village together, it is really very nice, in some buildings, however, has been in recent 300 years nothing has changed or. renovated. In a small cafe we enjoy delicious coffee and an unusual chocolate cake.
Short break in the Henriette, we're off to the next restaurant for dinner. Today we're having a really good time (belated wedding anniversary dinner), Hans-Peter orders an extremely delicious steak, I try the mexican burger, along with a bottle of red wine, finish with a cappuccino. The boys are happy about the leftover bone, they also seem very happy with the evening now.
Before we go back to the sea, there is a small hike to a nice lookout point. The ground on the way is extremely dusty, one feels, that you walk on cement dust. Of course everything is dusty in the Henriette too, the dust settles in every crack – really sucks!
In the afternoon we reach Puerto Vallarta, a harbourcity- and tourist stronghold. Here in town, the Walmart parking lot seems like the best option. After shopping we stroll towards the city center, admire the huge, full beach, admire a decked-out wedding party and look forward to it, that we have no 2 weeks hotel vacation booked. Once again we find out, that us the lonely, hidden spots better than the hustle and bustle of the city.
After a rather loud night, we escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Actually we wanted to fill up with water, but the water shop registered in iOverlander probably no longer exists – na gut, then it's time to save water. The street leads right through the center and the old town of Puerto Vallarta, the town is really lively here, colorful and pretty. Further along the beach there are countless hotel complexes, partly super modern and very chic, partly getting a bit old and very simple. At some point we left the last hotel behind us, the road, which is unusually wide by Mexican standards, leads inland and goes steeply uphill.
To 120 kilometers we turn right onto a dirt road – and lo and behold, we are already standing on a really beautiful beach. Two, three more pickups are here, mexican family enjoy sunday. In the afternoon a local comes to us, asks, what we do, how we are doing and how we like Mexico. Later he brings us a plate of fresh camaron ceviche – once again such a lovely gesture !!! With a nice campfire (Hans-Peter has collected driftwood) Let's slowly end the day.
We also spend the first of May here, only a few anglers and oystercatchers pass by. We can watch the fishermen well, they come back after an hour of diving with big sacks full of oysters – just a pity, that we don't like them !!
The day goes by swimming, read, walk on the beach, baking bread, cooking and some office work. In the evening there is a magnificent sunset, then a warm fire.
02.05.2023 – there was something ?? Yes done, today is birthday – beautiful 65 years I may be in this beautiful world – I can't believe it myself, that I should actually be that old :)! I am surprised with a delicious birthday heart, dear calls from the family follow, half the day goes by quickly. Just jumped into the water, then it's packed, we wanted to do a few more kilometers today. We won't get water again, the approached water houses all have no hose and no possibility, to connect our hose. In Arroyo Seco we find a great beach, but not a really nice place to stand. In the end we stop on a small piece of land between two houses. The houses all look pretty deserted and uninhabited, kinda weird. At the end of our walk on the beach we come across a small freshwater lagoon – much to the delight of our fur noses - finally swimming again and drinking at the same time. To celebrate the day, a bottle of sparkling wine is opened – unfortunately there was an unnecessary argument before, so the day ends a bit dull. Of course it can't be avoided, that you sometimes argue – no wonder, we are here 24/7 together and there is no one else there, where you can sometimes vent your frustration.
Meanwhile, it is already incredibly warm at breakfast, everyone is looking for a shady spot. Even the way to the water becomes difficult, the sand is brutally hot. Because the place isn't that great, Let's pack up and keep looking. On the way we pass kilometers of banana plantations, later the plants change, but they are not Papayas. We will try in Manzanillo again, to catch water – but the store listed in iOverlander doesn't seem to exist anymore – it's really cursed.
So it's on to the beach, but here too we are disappointed: the access is blocked, we can't drive into the sand, We don't want to park next to the houses again. When driving out of the dead end, Hans-Peter notices, that the front tire has little air – we hold our breath – hopefully we don't have records ??? Henriette is parked on the street, Hans-Peter pumps air into the tires, we keep our fingers crossed -. indeed, holds the air, everything is OK. We briefly check the map, there is no longer a reasonable place here on the beach, so we're going further inland today. After adventurous 3 Kilometers of access road with many branches on the roof we reach La Piedra Acompanda – this was probably a campsite or bathing establishment in earlier times. Beautifully situated under palm trees, all around streams, where you can swim. However, the water is not exactly refreshing, it's more like bathtub temperature. Despite it, Fresh water is really nice, it promises a quiet, to become a tropical night !!
Although the place is really nice, we have to go on: our water tank only shows 5 Liter an. In Colima there should be a water house with a hose, so straight there. We're lucky this time: we find the store, it's open and the nice owner conjures up a hose – we are saved. Now we are relaxed, first drive to the small town of Comala (also a publico magico), take a walk around the church square, then we park our little house comfortably at the Walmart and take a look at Colima on foot.
A really nice town, bunt, according to, cheerful – we like here. There is a cervezeria on the pretty church square, that needs to be tested, there is even a wheat beer on the menu. It doesn't taste like it does at home, but somehow delicious. It is 18.00 Clock and the thermometer still shows 30 City, d.h. you have to drink a lot !!!!!
The next plan is pending: there really isn't much you can do in the heat, the dogs cannot walk on the asphalt ?? Actually we wanted to go to the volcano Fuego de Colima – but dogs don't seem to be allowed in the national park and Henriette seems too fat for the paths ??? Also, change of plan, we just drive up into the mountains to Mazamitlan. On the way we see the picture book volcano. and lots of cane trucks
Mazamitlan is also a Pueblo Magico, up in the mountains 2.234 m altitude – here it only has 28 City – really relaxing!! The place is famous for its pine forests and wooden handicrafts. Seems to be a real tourist hotspot, there are countless shops with clothes, shoes, Souvenirs, sweets, Tequila………., lots of food stalls, Cafés, bars and restaurants.
After a long walk through the alleyways, we treat ourselves to a delicious beer and look at the hustle and bustle all around. At some point I get chills (Of course I don't have a jacket with me, no one could count on that ?), we head towards our home with quick steps. The night is refreshingly cool, we all sleep like logs.
Saturday, the 6. May, as an exception, today there are fresh rolls directly from a small tienda around the corner. Today we want to see the white pelicans in Petatan, a mini fishing village on Lake Chapata. The road there is once again adventurous – very tight, right and left it goes straight down the slope, wide sugar cane trucks come towards us. At noon we arrive in the village, walk down the run-down alleyways, wait on the beach for the arrival of the pelicans. The fishermen always throw over here 15.00 clock the fish waste of the day into the water and a large colony of white pelicans is happy about the feeding. However, we only see one bird, otherwise far and wide no pelican ??
After an hour of siesta we ask the cook at the taco stand: she explains to us, that the pelicans are all gone and won't be back until October – injury, that's too long for us to wait :).
A few kilometers further we want to go to our chosen pitch somewhere between fields. Our sat nav and Google lead us along the most outlandish paths: through huge rubbish dumps, narrow dirt roads and unsuitable small bridges. Hans-Peter has to turn Henriette twice in a confined space, once the concrete collapses beneath us, Thank God Hans-Peter reacts super fast, really accelerates and just manages to get over it. After this moment of shock, I felt a little queasy in my stomach. With difficulty we come back to the main road, decide us, 10 kilometers back and from there to get to our destination. We can't quite do it, but we can park Henriette here by the wayside, everything seems calm and peaceful. During the evening round, Frodo accidentally slips into a deep water hole, he can't get out alone – with the leash and a jerk he is back on the ground – totally done with the world. Also, today really wasn't our best day !!!
To compensate, a Mexican comes by on his tractor in the evening, descends, gibberish a bit with us, welcomes us to his country. Let's have a beer together, he keeps chugging, we eat our dinner under a starry sky with frogs croaking.
After the bad experiences yesterday, we're going to drive on the Autobahn today – no matter what it costs. The road is actually in very good condition by Mexican standards and we can manage it 230 Kilometer in 4 hours. We don't pay tolls – apparently we skilfully bypassed the toll booths ??
Against 16.00 clock we are at our destination: the huge, 20 m hohe, 80 Tons heavy Jesus statue Cristo Rey on a mountain of 2.579 m above Guanajuato. It is an unparalleled spectacle: Bus after bus struggle up and down the super-steep serpentine road. We just follow, until we actually get to the top – here there is absolute traffic chaos- the buses leave people out- and get in, the next buses are waiting patiently at the back, until there is a way, to go a few meters further. Turning is done at the top of the platform, parked along the street, thousands of people cavort in between – and everything is relaxed, no one honks or is annoyed – an absolutely stunning spectacle. At some point we also parked Henriette on the side, run to the statue, take a few photos and stroll in the strong wind at the millions of food- and souvenir stands.
We look with interest, what is offered here and at one stand we buy a particular specialty: macaws, a bun with avocado, crispy pork rind, Lime juice and spicy salsa ?? Looks delicious, but with photo, Dog and handbag is difficult to eat – so we run back to the car with our loot. We park briefly in a quieter corner, the bun is unwrapped: unfortunately the lemon juice has softened the rind, nothing is crisp anymore – injury !!
In the evening it gets quiet on the square, all buses, Cars and people disappear, we are all alone. We've been hearing a nice noise for a long time: Raindrops splash on the roof, accompanied with thunder and lightning !
Mondays are very relaxed here, only a few isolated buses find their way up. We take our time, have breakfast in peace, write website, sort photos. Later we make our way to Guanajuato, an old silver town, the 1989 included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Im 18. In the 19th century the city was the world's largest producer of silver, it was therefore one of the richest cities in the new world. Due to the rich silver deposits, the city grew enormously and was 19. Century the third largest city in the western hemisphere. In a narrow basin 2.050 m altitude is the colonial city, colorfully painted houses, stuck on the slope, shape the cityscape.
From a tunnel, who only with a height of 3,80 m is passable, we had read beforehand – there, and this is the tunnel we are heading for!! A thoughtful Mexican woman stops us shortly before, so we were able to turn around just in time. The only way to our parking lot is via the “Panoramic Highway” – one “actually” beautiful, narrow serpentine road with a great view, that goes around the whole city. However, this little road is a nightmare for our Henriette: we're just way too high, the chaos of electricity- and telephone cable is half a meter too low. Quite often we have enemy contact, looks like a bus to us, which attaches itself to the overhead line. We sweat blood and water, the track just doesn't want to end, once more we make a wrong turn, have to turn in this tangle. With luck we won't tear down any cables, actually arrive safely at the parking lot. Now it's time to take a deep breath and let the adrenaline level drop.
After breathing returns to normal, let's go for a stroll through town. This place immediately casts a spell over you: there is a colorful atmosphere in the narrow cobbled streets, happy mess, Food stalls are everywhere, everyone sells this, whatever the garden has to offer, the streets suddenly disappear into tunnels, the buildings are wonderfully colourful, the churches and palaces bear witness to the former immense wealth. We let ourselves drift, discover the great market hall, Cathedral, the theater, many small green spaces, magnificent colonial buildings and countless churches.
At nightfall there is a huge spectacle on top of that: a motorcade with brightly decorated vehicles, dancers in exotic feather costumes, really loud marching bands pass by the Basilica Colegiata de Nuestra Senora. Huge bouquets of flowers and statues of Mary are taken out of the vehicles and taken to the church, a priest stands by the stairs, takes pictures with the mobile phone and sprinkles everything with holy water ?? We have no idea, what kind of event is this ????
Very impressed and almost deaf, we escape the turmoil, find us a nice one, small restaurant, where we can all relax. Our hairy buddies are totally screwed, sleep equally soundly on their blankets. After a delicious meal and drinks, we make our way back to the parking lot. We are greeted by a pack of dogs, who feels disturbed by us – first of all, barking protests for an hour. All the same, we are so flat, that we can fall asleep easily.
The next morning, when the sun is shining beautifully, we make our way to the Museo de las Momias – a very special one, quirky museum. Here a number of naturally mummified bodies, taken during a cholera outbreak 1833 had been buried, displayed. The countless dead were buried in mass graves, to prevent further spread of the disease. But eventually the city ran out of space for all the dead, so they came up with something. A grave tax was instituted and if a family could not pay it for three years at a time – and that was not uncommon – the remains were simply dug up and removed from the cemetery. Due to the extremely dry, mineralsalzhaltigen Boden waren die viele Leichname mumifiziert, Skin and hair were preserved. Some of them had apparently been buried alive, her painful expression frozen by the mummification, a about 6 Month-old fetus is thought to be the world's smallest mummy. The numerous mummies, that have been unearthed over the years, kept in an underground morgue. And at some point someone came up with the idea, to exhibit these mummies ??
Mexicans have a special way of dealing with death, Families and their small children wander through this somewhat macabre collection without a care in the world.
Back among the living, we throw ourselves back into the hustle and bustle of the city, explore tunnels and enjoy this special little town. So far this is the best for us, most colorful Mexican city on our trip, one is overwhelmed by smells, Colors, people and buildings.
Around noon we steer Henriette out on the main road, drive round 80 kilometers to Dolores Hidalgo. We find a very quiet spot on a lonely field, enjoy a spectacular sunset and a very, very quiet night.
Well rested again, we head for our next destination: San Miguel de Allende, lt. Travel guides are a must for every visitor to Mexico. On the way we make a short stop at “Ghost town” – a weird place, where huge amounts of art objects are produced and sold. We really like a lot of things, there are tons of unique wooden tables, Pictures, The statue, Furniture, counters, hardware, Kitsch – simply gigantic. You can browse here undisturbed, Watch and marvel at a few artists at work.
After the bad experiences in Guanajuato, we park Henriette in San Miguel at a supermarket right on the main ring road. The idea turns out to be perfect: we reach our goal easily, the place is huge, Security guards are on duty day and night and after a walk of 20 minutes we are already in the middle of the city. The place is really very pretty and seems to consist only of nice restaurants and great clothes shops. I wonder, who should eat and shop here everywhere – the offer is just unbelievable. We stroll through the narrow, cobbled streets, take a break in the church square, drink a hugo, – because we ended up in a wine bar by mistake, although we actually wanted to have a coffee.
It continues through the many alleys with millions of restaurants, Cafes, Bars, galleries, Arts and crafts and exclusive fashion shops. The guide explains: San Miguel is a favorite place for Americans, many have settled down entirely or with a second seat. Everything here is also priced to suit American customers, it is absolutely clean, not a scrap of paper lies on the floor. It's really very pretty – but somehow it doesn't fit Mexico ??? On the way back to our parking lot we stop for a bite, eat well and even get a free drink – because today is mother's day. In Mexico, Mother's Day is always celebrated on 10. May celebrated, all mums have the day off and are taken out to eat, Bouquets are of course sold everywhere.
The next morning we pay a short visit to the supermarket and are amazed: there is simply everything in the way of delicacies, anything you can imagine. The range is gigantic, everything sparkling clean and attractive, the fish- and meat counter sooo appetizing, the baked goods department finishes me off and makes me melt away for good: there is right, really tasty white breadsticks, Croissants and snail pasta – we simply have to strike here. Back in the car there is a piece of the divine bread with butter – that tastes fantastic.
Now we've seen enough of the city, that's how we drive 20 Kilometers further to our first Mexican temple complex: Canada of the Virgin. Apparently we are the only visitors, far from us there is no other tourist to be seen. And we're really lucky: a 12.00 the next tour begins, we just have to 10 wait minutes. With a small bus we will go to 7 kilometers away from the entrance, From there it is about a kilometer to walk. A guide accompanies us, Unfortunately, the lady doesn't speak English and doesn't seem particularly motivated. On me, there are some information boards, we'll just have to look it up on the internet for the rest. The temples were built as places of sacrifice by the Otomi tribe, for example 600 – 900 n. C, to sacrifice young women to the gods. You should be gracious with that, so that the harvests are good, the rain comes and no diseases break out. But astronomy was also practiced here, studied the course of the moon and other stars. The facility is really beautiful, a first excursion for us into the ancient advanced cultures of Mexico.
After this tour, we first enjoy our snail noodles, the croissants are also fed, it just tastes so delicious. There is a small lake near the excavation site, we try our luck and actually find a great place to stay. Unfortunately there is a sign here, that swimming is forbidden – the whole lake is overgrown with an imported, Brazilian aquatic plant, which one will probably no longer master. In one part of the lake we see a small boat, that shreds these plants – but the amount of greens is enormous. and me, You can still cool off for a bit, a pleasant refreshment in the heat
So, we don't have much time left, Hans-Peter's flight day is getting closer and closer. So we drive a longer distance the next day, buy another bag of dog food at Walmart and look for a nice spot at a small fishing lake again. We enjoy the last free-standing evening with a wonderful noise: Singing cicadas in love ecstasy make a hell of a noise here!!
Am 13.05. we reach Charly's RV park, here I will be next 2 Spending weeks alone with the boys. Charly and Denise give us a warm welcome, we feel really welcome right away. Besides us, Yvette and Rolf from Switzerland and a couple from Moers are also on the field, We'll settle in at home first, in the evening we go to the restaurant, the menu features delicious Swiss dishes such as Rösti, Bratwurst and sliced meat – In addition, there is actually Erdinger wheat beer !!!! We sleep very well with full stomachs.
Sunday is packing day: Hans-Peter takes some clothes with him, which we haven't needed for a whole year now – incomprehensible, how little you really need. The washing machine works too, we have direct water connection on site – a dream !! At noon, Gaby and Stephan from Waldkirch join us, they come from the south and report their experiences from South America. Then in the evening the hangman's meal at Charly's, again our bellies are filled with delicious specialties from the Swiss kitchen.
Rolf tells Hans-Peter innocently over a nightcap, that Houston is quite difficult to transfer to, they should have spent a night in the hotel before, since the connecting flight was already gone. This story wasn't exactly conducive to a good night's sleep, my husband tosses and turns in bed half the night.
The alarm clock rings 7.00 clock, After a cup of coffee, Charly is ready to drive to Guadalajara in his car. We who stayed behind use the cool morning hour for a long walk, later it will be too hot to walk. So – so now I have 2 weeks correct “Vacation” – and with such nice people, a pretty CP and pure sunshine !!!!
Hans-Peter is having a few minor difficulties (first flight delayed, Connecting flight also delayed, so just got it, Luggage still on the way) Arrived safely at home. The boys and I spend these days very relaxed: We get up earlier in the morning for once, to scramble up the mountain in pleasant temperatures, followed by a hard-earned breakfast, Cool off in the pool, a chat with stranded campers, learn a little spanish with Denise, cleaning car, read ……..
Time flies by, we feel really comfortable here. Now I know Charlie, Denise and Alex understand, who got stuck here – it nice cookie, to spend his life. From all the people in the village comes a happy one “Good morning”, after 2 days the three of us are already known here like sore thumbs.
On Fridays I have a hair appointment in town, you have to look here, to get an appointment, The store is fully booked and I'm still waiting 4 other women on the scissors. So, those grown in a year 3 Centimeters were cut off, everything OK again.
Later we eat together with Denise, Guadeloupe and her daughter Sofia a few more tacos at the stand in the church square. At the weekend the stands are always open and very well attended. You can choose from the following fillings: Chorizo (yummy), doner meat (looks the same), Lips, tongue or stomach ???? There are also chopped radishes, Cucumber, Guacamole, Onion, hot sauce and whole, very hot sauce !! In fact, lip seems to taste good, the little daughter crushed 3 Tacos with your favorite filling !! A taco costs the equivalent 60 Cent, a meal, that everyone here can afford !!
The next event is on Saturday: Charlie has a can “Surströmmings fillets” (a Swedish fish dish, preserved by lactic acid fermentation, horribly fishy and rotten stinks) get given, the can is to be opened today and the contents tasted. Everyone is excited, To be on the safe side, Charly opens the can under water, so that the contents don't splatter all over the place. Everyone is invited, to try a bit, hardly anyone dares. With my nose closed, I quickly swallow a small piece, it tastes like a way too salty one, alter Hering. Gut, I don't need that again either 🙂
The tomorrow- and evening concert of cicadas is indescribable: the little animals make a hell of a noise, incomprehensible – I love it !!! On Mondays we can hear the sound of an engine coming closer from afar – sounds like a big vehicle ?? In fact, a huge white Scania pulls into the parking lot, they're Team Bodyduck, Psalms and Emese. We met briefly at the hot springs in El Sargento, I am happy, that I get such nice neighbors. In the evening, however, I feel a little discriminated against: around me are only Swiss – I have to try very hard, to understand everything, they occasionally fall into an incomprehensible dialect.
Every Tuesday there is a market in Atotonilco El Alto, we leave very early, the temperatures are still pleasant. Denise is so nice and takes us with her, together we plunge into the fray. Not all booths are set up yet, everyone is working and piling up. The streets are slowly filling up, it's getting louder and more colourful. We also rummage through the rummage tables, find a shirt for 20 Pesos (surely comes from a German old clothes collection), drink an ice cold coffee, test us through different cheeses, Tacos and unknown fruits.
It's a lot of fun and you never know, where to look everywhere – so many impressions come crashing down on you. At the end, of course, a decent breakfast taco should not be missing, they taste great at any time of the day.
We spend another – and hopefully the very last evening with Yvette and Rolf. Not, that I want to get rid of them both (it was really good fun, to spend the evening together with interesting conversations), but I wish you, that tomorrow the car can finally be repaired and they can finally continue their journey. We have already said goodbye twice – then they were back in the yard, frustrated, the car was still grumbling.
I have a lot to do today, so I drag myself out of bed early, say goodbye to Yvette and Rolf, then march off to Agua Caliente in pleasant temperatures. Knapp 8 kilometers and 1,5 Hours later we reach our destination, a tranquil little village. With my rudimentary knowledge of Spanish, I ask myself about the hot pools and at some point I find myself in front of a large outdoor laundry room ? Put your finger in the water for a moment – it's actually really hot. Now I'm looking for the swimming pools – I'm a little clueless, ask the next passer-by. And then I see that too “bathhouse” – a small building with 2 inputs – once for men and once for women. Can I trust myself in there? ?? On, since I'm already here, I'm very brave and enter the small room. Two Mexicans are happy, that I come to you, challenge me, to go into the water calmly. I carefully stick my big toe in and immediately jerk back – you almost scald yourself. The women laugh their heads off, apparently they already are “hardened”. Very slowly I create my body into the wet, steam from every pore and feel like a soup chicken. no idea, Am I cleaner now than I was before? – it was definitely an experience !!
Frodo and Quappo have settled in the shade, she (and me too) don't want to go back. Charlie offered me, pick me up, so we use this service and wait for the yellow pickup. Mit ein bisschen Hilfe schafft es auch Quappo hinauf und schon fahren wir ganz mexikanisch auf der Ladefläche zurück. Arriving at home, the two heroes immediately disappear into the Henriette and leave the next 5 no longer look for hours.
In the evening we sit nicely together with the Swiss group Zsolt, Esme, Charly und Denise – In no time at all it's midnight again and everyone goes to bed.
The friendly team Bodyduck starts early in the morning, they have an appointment at the Scania workshop in Guadalajara – we're happy, if we meet again somewhere along the way. It feels like it's getting hotter by the day, so we have no choice, than getting up early in the morning and going for a long run straight away, Men prefer to spend the rest of the day freshly chilled on the sofa with the air conditioning running. I actually wanted to do more (Learning Spanish, read, cleaning Henriette ….), but in the heat every step is too much. also good, so we just enjoy the sun, the Pool, let your soul dangle !!
Jeden Morgen starten wir früh zu einem Erkundungsspaziergang in der Umgebung, so haben wir die Örtchen San Joaquin, Villa de Garcia Marques, El Agua Caliente und Margaritas besucht. Alles typische, kleine, mexikanische Dörfer, mittendrin eine hübsche Kirche, ein großer Kirchplatz, unzählige kleine Lädchen mit allem, which runs parallel to the lake.
Hunde gibt es auch in jeder Ecke und auf jedem Dach, die spanischen Nachrichten an den Bordsteinen erfordert volle Konzentration von meinen beiden. I think, sie verstehen spanisch mittlerweile viel besser als ich – sind echt sprachbegabt !! Irgendwie ist es ungerecht, Hunde verstehen sich weltweit mit der gleichen Sprache – warum können wir Menschen das denn nicht ??
Von Pfingsten merkt man hier nichts, der Montag ist scheinbar auch ein ganz normaler Tag. Die Kinder gehen zur Schule, die Tortilleria arbeitet mit Hochdruck, alle Läden sind geöffnet. Heute laufe ich wieder nach San Joaquin, gönne mir ein Eis und bestaune das eifrige Geschehen um mich herum.
Mittags nimmt mich Urs mit nach Atotonilco El Alto, ein recht großer Ort mit knapp 70.000 residents. Drei Bankautomaten weisen mich ab, da werde ich doch langsam nervös ?? Sind denn unsere Konten gesperrt worden ?? Na endlich, der vierte Automat hat Erbarmen und spuckt immerhin 7.000 Pesos (350,– €) aus – geht doch !! Urs muss noch ein paar Mitbringsel für seine Freunde und Familie in der Schweiz besorgen, so fahren wir zum Tequila-Laden. Das Angebot erschlägt einen, es gibt unfassbar viele Sorten von Tequila, Likören und Mezqal, angeboten in den schönsten Flaschen – und das in alle Größen !!
Mittags wird bei Charly das neue “Brandzeichen” auf den Hamburgerbrötchen getestet, zum Testessen werde ich gleich eingeladen. Es sieht super aus, schmeckt super – alles perfekt. Charly und Denise sind einfach super liebe Gastgeber, sie lassen keine Wünsche offen und so fühlt man sich hier wie zu Hause !
Tuesday, the 30.06. – heute fliegt Hans-Peter wieder zurück zu uns, wir freuen uns alle schon wie verrückt. Es ist zwar super schön hier, aber irgendwann will Henriette wieder auf die Straße. Über Whatsapp erfahre ich dass die Maschine in Frankfurt mit einer Stunde Verspätung gestartet ist – mal schauen, ob es mit dem Anschlussflug klappt.
Bei meiner Morgenrunde haben wir heute ein leises Gejaule gehört, da müssen wir doch nachschauen. Und tatsächlich entdecken wir eine Erdhöhle, aus der neugierig ein kleiner Welpe schaut. Der Kleine schreit ängstlich nach seiner Mama, die sitze ein paar Meter weg und beobachtet uns genau. On, dann lassen wir den kleinen Kerl lieber mal in Ruhe !
Wednesday, the 31.05., mein Mann kommt aus Deutschland zurück, es gibt ganz viel zu erzählen. Im großen Koffer sind viele Mitbringsel für Henriette, wie z.B. ein Windschutz, ein Sonnensegel, verschiedene Spanngurte………. so wird in den nächsten 2 Tagen erst einmal kräftig gewerkelt. Samstags bekommen wir noch einen extra Reifen-Service, ein Monteur kommt vorbei und repariert unseren Reifen Tatsächlich hat sich doch eine kleine Schraube im Mantel eingenistet. Der Reifen wir fachmännisch geflickt, so können wir beruhigt weiterfahren.
Abends gehen wir bei Charly lecker essen, am Samstagabend gibt es sogar ein Rockkonzert auf dem Platz. Mittlerweile hat auch Janine aus der Schweiz noch den Weg hierher gefunden und wir verbringen einen sehr netten letzten Abend bei Charly.
Sunday, the 04.06. – endlich darf Henriette wieder auf die Strasse. Nach einer herzlichen Verabschiedung von Denise und Charly (wir kommen ja wieder, promised!) machen wir uns auf den Weg nach Norden. Our goal today: Tequila – der Name ist Programm !!! Auf einem großen Busparkplatz finden wir unseren Nachtplatz, gefühlt stehen wir zwischen 100 riesigen Reisebussen. Henriette kommt sich ausnahmsweise mal richtig klein und unscheinbar vor.
Hier dreht sich natürlich alles – wer hätte es gedacht 🙂 – um Tequila !!! Es ist wirklich ein sehr hübsches, gepflegtes Städtchen, jeder läuft hier mit einem Cantaritos in der Hand herum. Das süffige Getränk, das aus Tequila mit Orangen, Zitronen und Limettensaft besteht, wird in einem Tonbecher serviert, der Rand klebrig mit Salz und Chilli eingeschmiert (nach ein paar Minuten klebt eigentlich alles :)). Manche haben wohl ein paar Becher zu viel gekostet und können sich kaum noch auf den Füßen halten, die Voladeros drehen ihre Kreise von einem Mast herunter, Mariachis spielen an jeder Ecke. Uns gefällt es hier in dem Trubel richtig gut, ein richtiger Touristenhotspot.
Gelernt haben wir hier auch, dass jeder Tequila ein Mezcal (d.h. ein Agavenschnaps) is. Seit dem 20. Jhd. darf nur noch die Spirituose Tequila heissen, die in dem Bundesstaat Jalisco produziert wurde, ausserdem darf ausschließlich die blaue Weberagave verwendet werden. Allerdings wurde mittlerweile erlaubt, dass Tequila nur noch zu 51 % aus Agavensaft bestehen muss, der Rest kann mit dem billigeren Zuckerrohr aufgefüllt werden.
Eine Tour durch eine Destille machen wir auf Grund der Hitze nicht, wir holen das im September bei unserem nächsten Besuch in Jaslisco nach – promised.
Montagmorgens – the 05. June – stehen wir alleine auf dem riesigen Busparkplatz ?? Zum Frühstücken gehen wir nochmals ins Städtchen, heute sieht alles ganz anders aus: die Läden sind noch verschlossen und verriegelt, die Lastwagen liefern Ware an, die strasse wird gekehrt, es sind ausser uns keine Touristen unterwegs. Mit Glück finden wir ein kleines Café, hier gibt es ein typisch mexikanisches Frühstück mit Eiern, Bohnen und (logisch!!)Tacos. so gestärkt starten wir die Weiterfahrt. Auf Nebenstrassen zur bezahlten Autobahn hoppeln wir über unzählige Topes und Schlaglöcher 250 Kilometer weiter nördlich nach Santiago Ixcuintla. Am Rio Grande de Santiago finden wir ein “actually” nettes Plätzchen. Allerdings ist der Sand hier so staubfein, dass innerhalb von Sekunden Henriette von oben bis unten mit einer Sandschicht überzogen ist. Abends bekommen wir Besuch von einem netten Mexikaner, er wohnt in dem Haus neben unserem Platz. Er ist interessiert, was wir hier machen, wie es uns gefällt und trinkt gerne ein Bier mit uns. Wir erzählen, dass wir in Tequila waren und dass uns das Getränk gut schmeckt – zack, setzt er sich in seinen LKW und fährt weg. Komisch, so ohne Verabschiedung ?? To 10 Minuten löst sich das Rätsel: unser netter Nachbar kommt zurück mit einer Flasche Whisky, die er uns schenkt – ist doch der Wahnsinn ! Ausserdem versichert er uns, dass wir jederzeit zu ihm kommen können, wenn wir Hilfe brauchen – was ein nettes Angebot. So schlafen wir also ruhig und sicher im Schutz unseres Nachbarn.
Nach einem Spaziergang am Morgen durch das Städtchen packen wir zusammen, starten Henriette für den nächsten Abschnitt. Kurz vor Mazatlan biegen wir ab an den Strand, hier waren wir vor ein paar Wochen schon einmal und kennen uns aus. Ein herrlicher, endloser Sandstrand unter Kokospalmen – was will am mehr !! Das Wasser ist mittlerweile richtig warm, gar keine richtige Erfrischung mehr, wenn man sich in die Wellen stürzt. On me, bei knapp 40 Grad in der Mittagszeit verwundert das nicht.
Mittwochs erreichen wir gegen Nachmittag einen unserer Lieblingsorte: den Walmart-Parkplatz in Culiacan. Innerhalb von einer Stunde hat Henriette schon wieder 5 neue Follower – die lieben unser Auto hier richtig. Beim Spaziergang im Stadtpark entdecken wir die riesigen Leguane, sie sich super in den Ästen getarnt haben.
Abends bekommen wir Besuch von Joel und Griselda, bei ein paar Bierchen gibt es viel zu erzählen von unseren Erlebnissen in den letzten Wochen. Wie versprochen bekommt Eros und sein Bruder ein neues Halsband, das ich in meinem Urlaub geknüpft habe.
Im September werden wir ganz sicher wieder kommen, unsere Freunde meinten, dass wäre die beste Zeit, da den ganzen Monat über gefeiert wird und wir sind natürlich eingeladen zu der Fiesta.
Obwohl es sehr spät geworden ist, schaffen wir es am Donnerstag früh aus den Federn, wir haben einen schnellen Termin in der MAN Werkstatt. Die Stoßdämpfer werden vermessen, damit wir in Bakersfield eventuell neue eingebaut bekommen können. Die ganze Mannschaft freut sich, that we (schon wieder) bei ihnen vorbeischauen und sind sehr bemüht um uns. Nach einer knappen Stunde sind wir wieder on the road, drive round 250 Kilometer in das kleinen Fischerdorf Cerro Cabezon. Eigentlich wollten wir die Nacht hier verbringen, aber der Platz am Hafen ist so vermüllt, dass wir schnell entscheiden, ein anderes Plätzchen zu suchen. Ein paar Kilometer weiter finden wir eine nette Möglichkeit, allerdings ist es in der Umgebung sehr matschig, unsere Jungs habe sekundenschnell Klumpfüße, dazu schwirren Millionen von kleinen Mücken um uns herum. Also, ein eher suboptimaler Platz.
Alright, wir haben ruhig geschlafen, packen nach dem Frühstück zusammen und beschließen, heute für die Strecke von knapp 500 Kilometern die Mautstrasse zu nehmen. Der Abschnitt verdient tatsächlich die Bezeichnung “Autobahn” und wir kommen erstaunlich gut vorwärts. Kurz vor San Carlos biegt Henriette an den Strand ab, entdeckt ein tolles Plätzchen hinter den Dünen, versteckt sich unter Bäumen – Perfect. Bei unserem Strandspaziergang entdecken wir eine ganze Gruppe von Delphinen, die im Wasser herumtollen, herausspringen und uns zuwinken.
Der Abschied von Mexiko fällt bei diesem Standplatz schwer – daher müssen wir einfach nochmals hierher kommen – falls alles nach Plan verläuft, sind wir im September wieder hier !!
Am Morgen stürzen wir uns in die Fluten des Pazifiks – das Wasser ist jetzt wirklich buddelwarm, gar keine richtige Erfrischung mehr. Trotzdem schön, hier nochmals mit den Delfinen schwimmen zu können. Eine allerletzte Nacht verbringen wir am Samstag, to the 10. June, in Magdalena de Kino, übrigens ebenfalls ein Pueblo Magico. Hier hatten wir schon die erste Nacht in Mexiko verbracht, ist also wie Heimatbesuch :). Dieses Mal erleben wir das hübsche Städtchen trockenen Fusses bei 33 City, es sieht ganz anders aus als nach den Regengüssen im Januar. Viele Ständchen verkaufen Souvenirs, Tacos (clear – or ??), Eis, Früchte und pollo asado. Hinter einem verlassenen Sportplatz parken wir für die Nacht, das Begrüßungskomitee – geschätzt 15 dogs – steht schon bereit. Quappo und Frodo klären erst einmal auf, dass wir nun hier stehen, allerdings können sie die anderen Jungs nicht so ganz überzeugen. Die ganze Nacht hören wir die lautstarken Proteste, es ist beeindruckend, dass Hunde einfach nicht müde werden zu bellen.
Sonntags gibt es ein sehr feudales Frühstück mit Hamburgern, Eier und einem großen Obstsalat: der Kühlschrank muss leergemacht wegen der amerikanischen Grenzkontrolle. Auch die Jungs bekommen einen leckeren Hamburger ab !!
Die restlichen Eier werden gekocht, im Kühlschrank herrscht akuter Notstand – wir sind gut vorbereitet für USA !! Schnurstracks gehts zur Grenze – so war der Plan. Dummerweise passe ich kurz vor Nogales nicht auf und wir biegen auf eine falsche Strasse ab. Nun meint unsere Erna, dass sie uns die Stadt ausführlich zeigen muss – wir durchstreifen alle Stadtviertel, kommen durch engste Gässchen und sind nach einer halben Stunde total genervt. Zu guter letzt fädelt sich noch ein dickes Telefonkabel auf unserem Dach ein – da hilft nur noch hochklettern und Henriette von der Leitung befreien. Kurz vor dem Nervenzusammenbruch schaffen wir es an die Grenze, das Prozedere hier geht schnell und unkompliziert: 2 Zöllner schauen sich Henriette von innen an, wir erklären, dass wir nur hartgekochte Eier (kein Problem) und noch 5 Äpfel (Problem) dabei haben. Die Äpfel werden konfisziert, (wahrscheinlich wollten sie heute noch einen Apfelkuchen backen) und schon sind wir in Amiland !
Gleich hinter der Grenze merken wir sofort, dass wir auf einem ganz, ganz anderen Stern sind: kein Müll, keine Topese, keine Tacostände, no dogs, keine Schlaglöcher, kein Pickups mit 10 Leuten hinten drauf und keine Mopeds mit der der ganzen Familie – ein echter Kulturschock !!
