It's getting dark already, when we cross the border into Greece. You can tell immediately, that we are in the EU: the streets are wide and in good order, there is street lighting, no more rubbish on the roadside and no sheep on the way. However, a very thick one pulls over us, black cloud – Thank God the storm is passing us by.
After around 30 Kilometers we reach our parking space at Lake Zazari. It's totally calm and peaceful here, we really sleep in first.
On Sundays we hear the church service over breakfast in the distance, it's almost outside 14 Degrees warm and there is not a drop from the sky – Thanks to the Greek weather god Zeus !!! We walk around the lake once, enjoy a Greek coffee and decide, to stay here one more night. A VW bus from Austria joins them in the afternoon (a young couple with a dog) to us, one talks about the travel routes, Dogs and vehicles.
The new week actually starts with a few rays of sunshine !! The great terrain and the beautiful weather must be exploited – a bit of dog training is on the program. The day before we read an article about dancing bears, Quappo will be trained right away 🙂
Quappo dancing bear 
After so much training, the two rest in their cave. On the way to Kastoria, a small turtle actually runs across the road. Of course, they stop and the little one is carefully brought to the safe roadside. It’s the first “Wild animal”, that we've seen on the whole trip so far. Incidentally, the area has the highest bear population in the country, around 500 Animals live here in the wild – but they all hid from us.
Bear warning 
who's running across the street? ?
After a short drive we reach Kastoria ! 1986 have we been here before – but we hardly recognize anything. The town has become much bigger, Lots of modern hotels and apartment blocks have been added. A little stroll on the promenade, a delicious coffee in a small bakery and a photo of the pelican – that's enough for us – now we're looking for a place for the night.
We're going into the hinterland, a small off-road route and we are in the middle of nowhere with a wonderful view – nobody will find us here. Incidentally, I had to find out, that I of mine 7 Years ago I forgot almost everything in ancient Greek – I even mix up the letters. My old Latin- and Greek teacher Mr. Mußler will turn around in the grave !
In the evening I read a little more in the travel guide I just downloaded – clear, there is another change of plan: tomorrow the weather should be great, so we plan a detour to the Vikos Gorge. Also, when an astronaut watches us from the ISS, he thinks for sure, that we drank too much raki – we drive all over the country !!
The next morning the sun is shining with full force and our planned tour turns out to be a very nice route. Clear, there are also pass roads in Greece – compared to Albania, you feel like you're on the A5 on a car-free Sunday. In the meantime autumn shows itself in all its colors, the forests are criss-crossed with orange and red splashes of color.
View of the Vikos Gorge.
Our goal, the village of Vikos, consists of 3 Houses: a restaurant, a hotel and a small church. Henriette parks next to the small church and we set off for the hike into the gorge. Clear, first of all it goes steeply downhill (that doesn't mean anything good – we have to go back here too) to the bottom of the gorge. Unfortunately there is hardly any water flowing, it still hasn't rained enough. Lt. Guide takes the hike through the entire gorge around 8 hours – We can't do that anymore today. So we just run around 5 Kilometers and march back the same way.
Back in the village we pay a visit to the nice restaurant, eat a greek salad (what else !), baked sheep cheese and beans with spinach. Everything very tasty, but we notice, that we have local prices here again (In contrast, Albania and North Macedonia were very wallet-friendly !). Back in our living room the feet are put up, the dogs snore rhythmically in the cave, the sky shows the full moon and a beautiful starry sky. During the evening games of the trick (We really do that almost every evening) I'm already winning for 6. times in a row – Hans-Peter is frustrated and doesn't feel like it anymore, to ever roll the dice with me again 🙁
The most important Greece compulsory program is coming up: the Meteora monasteries . While catching water at the next spring we meet the two Belgians Tine and Jelle. You are since 15 Months on the road with your Defender and headed for Asia – without time limit and without any restrictions, just so long, how they enjoy it and have enough money. In Belgium they sold everything, they only left the family behind. I am impressed, that there are so many young people, who simply realize their dream of traveling – super !!
For the first time in Germany we drive a piece of the Autobahn today – that saves us around 50 Kilometer. The highway tolls are straight 6,50 €, for this we drive through what feels like 30 Kilometers of perfect tunnels. Shortly before Kalambaka we can already see the impressive rock massifs, on which the monasteries are enthroned, recognize. There is something mystical about the sight, magical – it's just amazing.
In the village we find a good parking space and set off on foot, to snap some nice photos. We'll save the drive to the monasteries for tomorrow. Meanwhile I know again, why I enjoyed Greek more than Latin when I was at school. Latin was always about warfare, the Greeks, on the other hand, lived, discussed and philosophized (Aristotle loved me most “about the truth” impressed) !!
And I still find it more desirable to this day, to live comfortably like Diogenes in a wine barrel, than to die a hero's death on the battlefield !! Conclusion: the Greeks understand, to live well, you can feel that here everywhere.
We had a dream day visiting the monasteries: the sun shines from the sky from morning to evening and the shorts are back to work. The road to the monasteries is well developed, there are enough photo points, There is a large parking lot at every monastery and everyone can find a place. We also take a look at the inside of the two monasteries of Agios Nikolaos Anapafsas and Megalo Meteroro: we have to do it separately, of course, because dogs are not allowed in. The camera is overheating, you can't get enough of this impressive one, unreal backdrop. In fact, the monasteries are still inhabited, however, only a handful of monks and nuns live in this special place.
A 
As we 1986 here were, This great street did not exist yet and you could only use baskets in some cases, that have been lowered, come to the monastery complex. Incidentally, the first monastery was founded in 1334 with the arrival of the monk Athanasios, the one here with 14 other monks founded the Megalo Meteora
Flashed by these insane impressions, we look for one completely, very quiet parking space for the night: we stand at Limni Plastira and look at the great photos in peace.
Happy Birthday !!! It's our big birthday today – incredible, beautiful 34 Years old Johannes – how time flies !! We exchange greetings by phone and before we continue, I jump into the lake bravely for a moment – very refreshing !
Today we're going a really long way: around 160 Kilometers come together. 30 Kilometers before our destination Delphi there is a hidden place in the forest. We stand very still here, without sheep, Goats and street dogs – quite unusual.
Zeus is on our side, he sent a lot of sun and blue sky to Delphi today. We expect it to be at the end of October, that not much is going on anymore – not even close !! The parking lot is already quite full, we can just find a spot on the street, Henriette can squeeze into. At the entrance we find out – we had already suspected it – that dogs are not allowed. So must mine 3 Men just stay outside, Mum is allowed to visit the holy place all by herself.
Temple of Apollo
The location of the whole complex is fantastic, one can imagine, as before 2.500 Years the many pilgrims have struggled to climb the mountain, to then hear a wise saying from Pythia. It was a brilliant business model – everyone wanted information from the oracle (no matter, what it was about: war, marriage, divorce, Neighborhood dispute, Color of the house …. ) and of course paid for it properly or. sacrificed. And then you got information, which was always ambiguous – if they have been misinterpreted, it was your own fault ?? The oracle never predicted anything wrong – it doesn't get any better than that. The oracle was probably richer then than it is now Bill Gates and Jeff Bezos combined.
Search image: where is Henriette 
the men have to wait
To 1,5 I set my boys free for hours and we move away from that “Omphalos – the center of the world” that time. According to mythology, Apollo sent two eagles from the ends of the world, they then unhappily collided in Delphi.
We also asked the oracle, of course, where we should travel further: the answer was: a place, which starts with P and ends with S. ?????????? We ponder, whether we should head for Pirmasens or Patras – decide after a long time- and finally for the latter. The further route is entered into the navigation system – Erna desperately wants a detour from almost 150 make km – she's crazy !!! We mercilessly ignore the aunt ! Shortly afterwards we come to a village, where Oktoberfest and Carnival are apparently celebrated at the same time – the cars are parked for miles on the street, there is almost no getting through in the village itself (maybe Erna was right after all :)). With nerves made of wire ropes, Hans-Peter masters this turmoil and we make it through the hustle and bustle. At the next parking lot there is a pee break – so much adrenaline is pressing on the bladder. In the meantime I've looked it up, that this mountain village “Arachova” and is the Ischgl of Greece. Even without snow, all Athenians seem to love this place and come here on weekends.
The journey continues relaxed towards the sea: shortly before Psatha we see a blue spot flashing between the trees: Adria here we come !
Quickly down the last pass, we're already standing on the beach, drink an alpha in the beach bar and plunge into the waters poodle-naked at night.
Unfortunately, clouds gather on Sundays, That means, go on, follow the sun. A small road meanders along the coast, by Greek standards, that's an off-road route. We come to the lake “Limni Vouliagmenis”, there we hide Henriette nicely in the bushes. It should rain later, so we make our way to the lighthouse and an excavation site (you can find them on almost every corner here).
Frodo and Quappo find the goat much more exciting than the old remains of a column – everyone just has their priorities. From the top of the little headland we can see the Corinthian Gulf – that is where it will continue tomorrow.
During the night, Aeolus took power – he really lets it storm ! There is a lot of rocking in our Henriette, we feel like we are on a sailing dinghy. In the morning I try to open the door very carefully, she's almost thrown off its hinges, back from the morning walk we are totally aired out.
Our journey continues over the Corinth Canal to the Peloponnese. I had the channel – honestly – already presented a bit bigger ?? But for the time it was a considerable construction achievement. We have a lot of fun with Erna again – the navigation system seems to have a new input mode – find the narrowest streets possible ?? We drive inland on single-lane dirt roads, next to us the newly built country road – that gives us some thought, whether Erna looked too deep into the glass yesterday.
Corinth Canal 
Our sat nav loves dirt roads !
Arrived in Mycenae, we make our way to the exhibition grounds. Of course it's the same as always: Dogs are not allowed on the premises, although a big street dog greets us behind the fence ?? We briefly discuss, whether we look at the excavations separately or rather invest the entrance fee in Greek moussaka ?? On, who comes up with the right result – we cultivars prefer to invest in the Greek economy and eat out nice. At home there is tutoring about Mycenae: The city experienced its greatest heyday in 14. and 13. Century ago (!) Christ – thus these stones are almost 3.500 year old – incredible !!
Treasury of Atreus 
we have to stay outside ! 
Löwentor 
Mykene
In the morning we chat with our neighbors, a likeable couple from Bavaria with their 2 Little Milow and Holly. Your bitch Guilia is embraced by our two masters, they are very enthusiastic, to finally hit on a nice girl. We therefore reach the pretty town of Nauplius later than expected. Here we first head for a gas shop, then the laundry and finally the supermarket. Our parking space is right in the center today, perfect for a castle tour and a shopping tour. Hans-Peter first has to be persuaded, to climb up to the Palamidi fortress with me – after all are 999 Climb stairs (I won't tell him until the next day, that there is also a street going up there :)). Once at the top, we are rewarded with a great view of the city and the sea, the sore muscles tomorrow will simply be ignored.
We only notice when we descend, how steep the stairs are, here you really have to be free from giddiness. There are also no railings, in Germany you would need seat belts and a helmet. Even Quappo looks at me confused: now we just walked up and down there ??
Once at the bottom we stroll to the harbor, through the nice alleys, eat an ice cream at the temperatures and look at the offers in the small shops. There is still a lot going on here despite the off-season, I like that very much, of course. Hans-Peter is impressed by the huge sailing ship, that is anchored in the harbor: the “Maltese Falcoon”.
Maltese Falcoon 
Bourtzi fortress
Today is already Wednesday (we are slowly running out of time and have to question the cell phone, which day it is right now), the weather is nice and so the next destination is clear: we need a nice beach spot. Around 40 Kilometers further we find a perfect one, wide beach near Astros. The swimming trunks are about to be unpacked, and go into the waters. The water is really nice and warm, just outside there are a few clouds and so there is nothing to do with sunbathing. But you can go for a nice walk on the beach and the wind around your nose or. Blow dog ears.
28.10.2021 – what an important date – yes ready, today there is a big birthday party !!!! Frodo, our big one will 4 Years old 🙂 Yesterday, my master stood in the kitchen all day and baked a wonderful minced meat cake – the boys' mouths have been watering for hours. After all the birthday kisses and photos, the cake can finally be eaten – Friend Quappo is invited and generously receives a piece.
Satisfied and with a full stomach, we drive to Leonidi. Actually, we just want to fill up with water there ! We read on the way, that the village is a nice hotspot for all boulders – and is crazy about climbing, You can see that immediately in the many young people, who stay here. The way to the water point is once again absolutely adventurous: the alleys become as narrow, the balconies protrude further and further into the street and everyone, who are currently enjoying their espresso in the cafe, watch us fascinated with wide eyes. Used to grief, my driver and his Henriette also manage this challenge and we get out of the maze of alleys safely.
That's what happens, when you can't stop, read in the travel guide: it's supposed to be an old one here, give monastery built in the mountain – Access possible on a small road ?? Already in the first corner a local waves to us, that we shouldn't go any further – we sensibly believe him. So the hiking boots are put on, Pack your backpack and off you go. We can already see the monastery from below as tiny, make a white point. 1,5 Hours later we reach the entrance, go straight into the monastery and are immediately reprimanded by an unfriendly nun: “dogs forbidden” she screams indignantly at us. Alright, we want to withdraw, here comes the old nun (the only, who lives alone here in the monastery !) and hand us some sweets – We think that's very nice – God actually loves all living beings – or ???
the only resident 
After the beautiful, We don't feel like doing a strenuous tour anymore, to continue, we just stay here in the middle of the village in the parking lot and put our feet up.
We want to go back to the sea, so we go south. To 80 Kilometers we reach Monemvasia – a medieval city, which is located on a huge monolithic rock in the sea.
The city was 630 n. Chr. specially built on the rock, that you couldn't see them from the mainland – it was only visible to seafarers – a perfect disguise. There was even a grain field in the town, thus the citadel was self-sufficient and could be defended indefinitely. Only after three years of siege a year 1249 she was forced to surrender by the Franks. Real, very, very impressive !!!!
We spend the night just behind the town by the sea, it's storming again strongly ! From here we can actually see a bit of Monemvasia – the thick telephoto lens is used.
After this whole cultural program, we definitely need a break :). One of the most beautiful beaches in Greece is said to be just around the corner – so let's go there. Simos Beach is the name of the beautiful spot on the small island of Elafonisos. Henriette is allowed to go on a ship again, 10 Minutes later and 25,– € poorer we arrive on the islet. It's only to the beach 4 Kilometers and we can already see the sea sparkling. Everything is dead here, there is only one beach bar left 2 people, who tidy up and clean – the season seems to be over for good. We enjoy the huge sandy beach to ourselves, the color of the sea is really postcard-kitschy turquoise, azure and glittering.
The water is incredibly clean, you can count every grain of sand while swimming. Frodo and Quappo are in their element, dig, run and play like little children.
We also have our parking space all to ourselves – which surprises us a little. The next day we get neighbors: Agnes and Norbert from Upper Swabia !! We have a nice chat about travel routes, travel plans, vehicles, children ………… eventually it turns out, that her son lives a few houses away from my mother-in-law – how small is the world. Deal, that you will come to us on your next visit to Seeheim (or two) Drop by for a beer !! The network works quite sporadically, that's a bit annoying, but is ideal for relaxation. In the afternoon we have to go to the next village, unfortunately we forgot, take enough provisions with you. A small mini market (he's really tiny) thank God it is still open, so we can do more 3 Extend days.
There is a heavy storm on Tuesdays, the whole beach is under water in the evening – the force of nature is simply impressive. We're really looking forward to the next day: the weather app promises absolute bathing weather – so it happens !! We're lying in the sand, enjoy the clear, still quite warm water, laze around and do nothing !
A look at the cell phone tells us, that already today 03. November is – we can't believe it. Meanwhile another camper has moved to us, a couple of teachers from Hamburg, that sabbathes for a year. More will come later 4 Mobile and 3 Dogs on, slowly it looks like a campsite in Rimini. Since we still have a bit of a program ahead of us, we decide, to continue the next day.
Hunger ! 
After breakfast, we have a very nice and informative conversation with a young teacher from Cologne. We are always enthusiastic, what great, interesting, exciting, we meet adventurous people on the way. In the meantime, our dogs have made friends with the two dog girls and are romping around in the dunes. We hope, that no alimony is due – one girl is on the verge of heat 🙂
The ferry is only going around 14.10 clock – we still have time for urgent tasks: our toilet needs to be cleaned again. I already reported, that our separating toilet is simply brilliant ?? In fact, it just has to be all of them 4 – 5 Weeks to be cleaned – and that's really not as bad as one fears. After everything is done, let's have a well-deserved coffee in the harbor
Cleverly, my driver Henriette drives backwards onto the ferry – on the way there we were amazed, that some stand upside down on the pier. It quickly became clear: there is only one exit, the ship just turns on the way. Back on the mainland floor – we continue along endless olive groves. The harvest has started, trees are being shaken everywhere. We have to smile a bit: The majority of the work here are guest workers from Pakistan, India and some Africans. We can store water in a small chapel, next to it is the place to stay. Only one more camper is here, otherwise everything is quiet – we think !! The bikini is immediately slipped on, off into the water and then the beach shower actually works !! What a luxury, unlimited water from above – we are crazy about something like that “Normal”. Immediately afterwards a bark or rather howl – oh yes, a beagle comes charging. We are relieved to note, that it's a girl and let our boys off the leash too. Immediately afterwards another four-legged friend arrives – Perfect, a girl for every boy – I see alimony coming my way again.
Actually it was clear: the next morning the ladies are waiting in front of the door and take the gentlemen in reception. We can have breakfast in peace, swim, showers – in the distance we see a dog's tail wagging from time to time – so everything is fine. To 2 We get our totally exhausted guys in the car for hours, for the rest of the day there is no more sound to be heard from the dog house.
On the way there is a photo point at the wreck of the Dimitrios – the ship is 1981 stranded here and has been rusting as a photo motif since then. In the fishing village of Gythio we briefly stretch our legs, until we finally get to Kokkala – one 100 Seelen Dorf get a place for the night.
We are now on the middle finger of the Peloponnese, a region called Mani. The area is inhospitable, sparse and at the same time very fascinating. Refugees used to live here, Pirates and other fiends are hidden – one can imagine that correctly. The actual inhabitants of the Mani had been dealing with nice things like family feuds for decades, Blood revenge and honor killings busy, the old defense towers can be found everywhere. There the persecuted hid or. Accursed for years, tried, repel opponents with rifles and pistols – until one of them was finally dead – creepy imagination – Halloween for real.
What we really like, is, that the new buildings are also built in the same style: all are stone houses (that's the only thing, that there is in abundance here: Stones !!) in the shape of towers, The loopholes are also built in. The small settlements partly only consist of 4 – 5 Houses, they are scattered all over the mountains. There is a small parking space in Kokkala, very quiet, only the sound of the waves can be heard.
On Saturdays we come to the southernmost point of the Mani: Kap Tenaro – that's the 2. southernmost tip (to Spain) from mainland Europe. It's like imagining a cape: the end of the world ! From here we walk to the 2 Kilometers away lighthouse, Hans-Peter unpacks his drone and so we get a great aerial photo of us.
It's so beautiful here, that we also stay overnight. We can even swim in a mini-bay – it's saturday too, d.h. Bathing day !
There are a few other campers with us, so there are new encounters.
On Sunday morning we are attacked by a group of Chinese at breakfast: they are totally enthusiastic about our Henriette, one by one they all look at our living room, Kitchen and bathroom, Hundreds of cell phone photos are taken, the dogs are cuddled, everyone is talking confused and we almost sold Henriette and her dogs – he makes us a very good offer !! However, he would rather have a Mercedes than a MAN vehicle as a vehicle – and so we do not come to an agreement – also good !!
On the drive on the west side of the Mani, we visit the deserted village of Vathia. 1618 lived here 20 Familys, a longstanding family feud (!!) however, led to a sharp decline in the population, so that 1979 there was no one left. The facility was also simply left behind – a really exciting ghost town.
By the way, you could tell by the height of the towers, how rich a family was – simply the higher the tower, the richer the family – you didn't need a land register- or bank statement – that's how easy it is !
We spend the afternoon swimming on the beach of Oitylo, Going for a walk, Washing clothes and fishing ! A small fish actually bites – since it's not enough for dinner, he can go back into the water.
What's on the program today – and, we pay a visit to the underworld !! With a small boat we steer into the caves of Diros, a stalactite cave, which supposedly 15.400 m should be long – thus the longest cave in Greece. We can't make it all the way, but the small round is very impressive. I feel like an enchanted fairytale princess, lured to the underworld by wicked witches. Thank god I have my prince with me, That brings me back to the upper world.
Back in the sun we come a few kilometers further to the village of Areopolis. Lt. Guide book the place should be very nice, it is even a listed building. At first we are disappointed, there is really nothing nice to see at all – until we notice, that we've gone in the wrong direction. Also, everything at the beginning ! In fact, we find the town center with a pretty market square, nice alleys, very, very nice and absolutely stylish cafes and taverns (however all empty – this is probably due to the month of November).
ne announcement !
We spend the evening in Kardamyli, also a nice one, almost extinct village by the sea. We are on our way optimistically, to find another open place – it turns out to be more difficult than expected. A nice beach bar is actually open, and we enjoy greek salad, greek wine (It just doesn't taste really good) and greek sandwich at sunset !
09.11.2021 – a morning bath in the clear, still pleasantly warm water, Breakfast outdoors, relaxed dogs – suddenly a very unfriendly Greek comes to us and gives us an unmistakable understanding, that you are not allowed to stand here ?? We seem to have parked in his parking lot – however, there are also a hundred free places – you don't have to understand. Alright, we wanted to go on anyway, and so we quickly pack everything together and set off. We're leaving the sea, drive over a great pass road and an impressive landscape to Mystras.
When you arrive in the old Byzantine ruined city, it quickly becomes clear: dogs are not allowed in here either !! So my photographer is allowed to visit Mystras alone today, the dogs and I just look at the place from afar (is really worth seeing), take a walk through the olive groves, scare away all the village cats, steal a few olives and oranges from us as consolation and later I calmly look at the results of my photographer in the Henriette – perfect division of labor.
O 
Mystras become 1249 founded by Wilhelm II von Villehardouin from Bar-sur-Aube in northern France with the construction of the castle complex, shortly afterwards his brother was captured by the Byzantine emperor and could only buy himself free by surrendering the castle. Below the castle, a prosperous city with tens of thousands of inhabitants emerged. 1460 Mystras was conquered by the Ottomans, 1687 it came into Venetian possession, fell however 1715 returned to the Ottoman Turks (who can just remember all that ?). During the Russo-Turkish War 1770 the city was badly devastated, in the Greek struggle for freedom 1825 then so destroyed, that they refrained from rebuilding. Now, in turn, tourists have recaptured the city.
We spend the night on the highest point between Mystras and Kalamata (1.300 m height) all alone – I hope the hunter won't complain tomorrow morning, that we have occupied his parking lot !
Back down in the valley you can see how a Lidl guilt flashes shortly before Kalamata – my driver is about to hit the brakes. Originally, I didn't really want to go shopping in such a decadent store – but some things are just there a lot, much cheaper and better (after the third bottle of Greek wine from the plastic bottle we need a delicious drop again – and a glass bottle of wine in a normal supermarket always costs at least 15,– € – for whatever reason). So, Stocks replenished, it can go on. It's almost annoying: you can't do any here 50 Drive kilometers without being a Unesco World Heritage Site, an archaeological site, a super nice fishing village , a dream beach or something else great is on the way. Alt-Messene is such an excavation, which is only a short detour from 15 Kilometers required – you can't leave that out ??? Lt. Today it is my turn to take photos of our division of labor – and the excavation is really very considerable. Messene was 369 v.Chr. founded as the capital of the new state of Messenia and was a flourishing trading city for a long time and was never destroyed. You can see the remains of a theater, an agora, many temples, Bathhouses, City walls and a big one, antique stadium – one of the most beautiful, we've seen so far.
We spend the evening on the beach of Kalamata and are treated to a brilliant sunset.
The next highlight is waiting for me right after breakfast: there are actually hot water beach showers here – I can not believe it, use this gift for minutes until the last patch of my skin is pore-free. In any case, the boys don't recognize me today by my smell.
The next stop today is Koroni, a small fishing village at the tip of the western finger of the Peloponnese with a ruined castle. The place is quite nice, but meanwhile we are so spoiled, that we're not that excited, as the travel guide suggested.
After a walking tour, the tour continues to Methoni, here the old fortress is much better preserved and more impressive than in Koroni. There is a good parking lot on the beach in the middle of the village, you can stand here overnight. Unfortunately we cannot visit the castle – she has already taken off 15.00 Closed and again no pets are allowed. We're already thinking, whether we our 2 don't just pass them off as guide dogs the next time – whether that is noticeable ???
The next day (it friday, the 12.11.) should be really beautiful again – the signal, to head for the next dream beach. So we drive along the coast via the town of Pyros to the bay of Navarino. Here took place on 20. October 1827 the last great naval battle between the Ottoman-Egyptian fleet and an allied union of French, English and Russian ships instead. The Allies sank the Sultan's entire fleet and thus laid the foundation for the establishment of the Greek national state.
This historical water is great for bathing, after we found another free place. There is a camper hiding in every small bay (or two), we are lucky, a VW bus is just packing, so we get a seat in the front row. Especially on the castle tour, we climb the old fortress Paleokastro in the afternoon. Once at the top, a spectacular landscape spreads out in front of us – Ox belly bay, Lagoon, Coast and the nearby islands. So we know our goal for tomorrow straight away – clearly, the ox-belly bay – The name alone is awesome !
On the way to the bay we pass an olive press – short stopover announced ! The whole time we could follow the olive harvest here, now we want to see too, how the delicious oil is made from it. We are allowed to see everything up close, of course we also want to take something with us. You have to get the container yourself, then you get the oil freshly tapped – we're looking forward to dinner !!
After the successful purchase, we move on – and don't believe our eyes: there are tons of flamingos in the water !! It is stopped immediately, the large lens screwed on, Dug out the tripod and we have the birds in front of the lens !! I think, we do at least 300 Photos – you just can't stop 🙂 – this is going to be fun tonight, when you have to choose the most beautiful photos.
who are you, then ?? 
what kind of a flamingo is that ?? 
After the photo shoot we drive back to the old place, now the space in the very first row right next to the beach shower is free – we just stay there again 2 Days longer. We pass the day swimming, showers, sonnen (!) – while the Erfelder at home over fog, Wail for rain and cold.
for a change: a sunrise !
All of our supplies are slowly running out, unfortunately we have to continue like this !! Monday wakes us up with a phenomenal sunrise (actually the weather forecast for today was bad ??). Wide awake after the morning bath and the ice-cold shower, we discover the Eifel Tower along the way (no, no photo montage, it really does exist here), behind it a small supermarket, we are safe again. While browsing the Park4Night app, I found a waterfall, which is on our route. Also, today not a beach but a forest day – Variety is a must. The road to the waterfall is impressively steep and narrow – a little adrenaline is good for you after a lazy day at the beach. Then only that mountain feeling: – it rises steeply- and down, a few via ferratas have to be climbed – later Venezuela feeling: we are rewarded with a really nice waterfall !! There is a cocktail bar especially for the boys – with Neda cocktails – super tasty and refreshing !
Eifelturm in Filiatra 
Cocktail bar for Frodo and Quappo 
Rock chapel 
Neda waterfalls
The night in the mountains is pretty frosty – the vote after the breakfast briefing results in a clear majority: 3 Vote for it, one abstention (Snoring out of the dog house): we want to go back to the sea. There is a small path behind Zacharo, which leads directly to the beach – Strand – that is actually not the right word: here there are 7 Kilometers of the finest sandy beach and no one far and wide – this is unbeliveable !
Swimming is great, weather, temperature, waves – everything fits. Quappo and Frodo are in 7. Dog heaven, dig, to play – simply pure joie de vivre !
Ratet mal, who now has fifty thousand three hundred and twenty-one grains of sand in his skin and has thus fallen asleep soundly ?? Clearly, we stayed here for the next three days.
After a grain of sand stuck in Henriette's very last crack, let's go a few kilometers: the next incredibly huge sandy beach: there are a lot of abandoned ones here, crumbling houses, it's a bit scary ? It would be exciting to find out, what happened here – maybe all the houses were built illegally, maybe the residents were afraid of a tsunami, maybe the area is contaminated , maybe there are wild dinosaurs here, maybe people from Mars came down here …………. ??? All the same, our security system works perfectly, what can happen to us.
The drone disappears briefly over the sea, but comes back after a few requests. Five drops of rain come from the sky, they are accompanied by a grandiose, cheesy rainbow.
Endless beach !
The whole family ! 
Henriette under the rainbow
So, we are totally relaxed and relaxed, a bit of culture would be my turn again: the weather promises to give everything, so off to the Olympics !!!
As always, we have to split up – I am allowed to go to the historic stones, the men amuse themselves with a walk around it. So this is where the Olympic idea comes from – more than 2.500 Years ago, the big stadium was about fame and laurel wreaths (I believe, There was actually no advertising revenue yet), 45.000 Spectators could watch the competitions. It was running, fought, wrestled, Discus and spear thrown – always under the eyes of the judges.
There were countless temples next to the stadium, to placate the gods (Doping was not yet known !), real muscles, where the athletes could get fit, feudal guest houses for the guests of honor, Bathing temple and of course the temple of Hera – this is where the Olympic flame is lit today !
We want to end the beautiful day on the beach – to do this we drive to Katakolo. We are expected by a million mosquitoes, just briefly open the door – you already have an hour's work with the fly swatter. no, we don't stay here – we prefer to drive them 20 Kilometers back to our lonely and (fast) mosquito-free) Strand.
Today is a really nice Sunday: Bathing weather from getting up until sunset (again and again we have to say to ourselves, that today the 21. November is and normally I would be safe to bake at home).
Good Morning ! 
We are all enjoying the day to the full, even the boys want to go into the water again to snorkel 🙂
The weather app was actually right: the sky is Monday gray and it's raining 🙁
So saying goodbye is not that difficult and we go to Patras. Here we want to have our gas bottles filled up (there are few shops, who even do this here, there was probably a legal change in the summer, after which the filling of gas cylinders is no longer permitted). Of course, this shop is right in downtown Patras – you can imagine, what that looks like: the streets are narrow, the people park as they are funny right now, in between the mopeds drive through in serpentine lines, it is raining and there is no parking space either. On me, we can do it, to hand over the bottles, in the evening 19.00 We can pick you up again. We use the meantime for urgent shopping, a stroll in the harbor, Beach and park. Wet from above and below there is a coffee at the last beach bar, we dry briefly in Henriette, then the fun starts again: now comes to the narrow streets, Regen, Mopeds, in the third row of parked vehicles there is also darkness – great combination ! Tel, we made it, the gas bottles are on board, now nothing like going to the beach to spend the night. We enter the coordinates in our Erna, drive through the reeds on ever narrower streets (actually not bad), Erna tells us: turn left – but there is a gate ?? We continue on the reed path, it is pitch black – and the path ends completely ?? On the right a fence, a wall on the left – what a horror !! Hans-Peter somehow has to turn Henriette around, feels like a thousand times he has to maneuver, I'm standing outside and my heart has slipped again in my pants. Somehow we can do it without scratches and without the wall falling over, to get out of here !!!!!! Totally exhausted with the nerves, we come the very easy way (Thank you Erna !!) to our goal. In the night it rains endlessly, the noise – when you lie comfortably in bed – relaxed by the heavy raindrops !!.
Today we leave the Peloponnese – with a crying eye – , drive over the great new bridge (for the proud price of 20,30 €), curve pass roads again and land at a nice lake place. We can clean our toilet here in peace, Henriette desanded, to make the laundry, go for a walk and bathe in fresh water in the morning. When watching the news in the evening, we are extremely frustrated – the corona numbers in Germany and neighboring countries are increasing continuously ?? For our return trip we will therefore not drive via Albania and Montenegro as planned, but about Serbia, Hungary and the Czech Republic – so definitely the preliminary plan !!! And where to go next 2022 can go, is completely in the stars right now ???
One last time to the sea – this has been our mantra for days now 🙂 – We landed in Menidi on a headland – left the sea and right the lagoon with hundreds of flamingos – what a beautiful place – way too beautiful, to go to Germany !!!
We sleep like marmots, beautifully asleep with a gentle sound of waves. The next morning is gray on gray, but very slowly the sun makes space between the clouds – there is bathing weather again ! Well really all of that, very last swim in the sea for this year – we jump into the clear water several times.
The flamingos are observed with the camera – but there is a very strange specimen swimming there ?? A pelican actually smuggled in between – as you can see from the great curly hairstyle, is that a Dalmatian Pelican? ???
We just can't part – so put the water on again, brewed a coffee and put it in the sun. We'd like to store a little warmth for the next few weeks – unfortunately our body has not built in a battery for it – you should definitely invent that ?? In the early afternoon, in a bad mood, we pack everything up, start Henriette, marvel at the old bridge of Arla on the way and find an unspectacular place to stay at Pamvotida on Lake Pamvotida.
Arla Bridge 
no sheep on the street today !
Continue north, even today we want to avoid the Autobahn. So we drive the abandoned E 92 – this pass road has not been maintained since the opening of the autobahn, driving is only permitted at your own risk. On approx 50 kilometers there are countless deep potholes, slipping road components, often one-lane parts of the road, many boulders in the middle of the path, a few snowdrifts – and we are all alone. The experience of this unique landscape is always worth it. At the end of the Strasser we come into a thick foggy hole and can only crawl. We have to take the Autobahn for the last section, but with the fog it doesn't matter anyway – you really don't see any 50 Meter.
take water 
Metsovo
In the afternoon we come to the parking lot, that we found on our first night in Greece: am See Zazari. Here we enjoy Greek air for the last time, go for a nice walk by the lake and marvel at a great rainbow
Am See Zazari 
Snow mountains in sight
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It is Saturday, the 27. November, today we have to leave Greece – it is very difficult. This country offers so much: endless sandy beaches, ancient cultures, nice people and breathtaking landscapes – we will definitely be back !!!
