Travel report Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro

So, now we have landed unplanned and unprepared in Bosnia-Herzegovina. We are shocked to find out, that the internet no longer works – we are outside the EU, the mobile phone cards are not valid here – all right then, we have maps and travel guides !!!!!

There is a nice parking space at Jezero Busko, a huge reservoir with a beautiful sandy beach.

Jezero Busko

After a strenuous stroll through Split, our 2 hairy boys romp here – splendid. A few people are still with us here at the lake, but in the evening everyone drives home and we are alone. The night is wonderfully quiet, the next morning we see another German couple, doing yoga exercises on the beach. Frodo is a bit irritated, what that is supposed to be, but he accepts the comically contorted neighbors. Our plan for today is, to find the village of Vakuf-Uskoplje, the cousin of Hans-Peter's longtime employee Goran runs a restaurant here. The route leads over a really high mountain pass (we didn't expect that at all) and after some searching we find the place. Unfortunately, dogs are not allowed in the restaurant and the site is not suitable for overnight stays either. We drink a delicious cappucchino in the next café (for converted 0,75 Cent !), have WiFi and are planning the next route.

We drive back a short distance, then it goes towards Sarajevo. We just can't find a decent place to stay, In the end we are standing at a closed beach bar directly on the street – for one night you can accept that.

The night was incredibly loud, in the morning the call of the muezzin wakes us up – we have actually landed in the Orient !!. A short breakfast and off we go to Sarajevo. On the way we buy a Bosnian mobile phone card and actually have full internet again !

Sarajevo is one “right one” big city, mitten located in den Bergen. We drive on streets, the only for 3,5 t are admitted and come to a huge parking lot. From here we walk to the city center in half an hour – however, there are steep uphills and downhills. We find ourselves in the middle of an oriental bazaar – it's really impressive. As everywhere, our dogs are a sensation, many people are totally delighted, others freeze in fear to a pillar of salt.

Back at the parking lot we find out, that we no longer have internet again – we don't get it. So we now navigate with the new app IOverlander and find a place, that should be nearby. Suitable for 4 x 4 vehicles – so let's go there. At first we are really happy, as the road enters a beautiful valley. Then the track gets narrower and rockier – my heart is in my pants and the adrenaline level is rising. I get out and walk a little ahead – we should actually do that. When we arrive at our destination, a fabulous all-round view awaits us, we stand on a small plateau in the middle of nowhere.

We slept like logs, now we have to go back to civilization. Thank God the way back is easier than expected and we continue towards Mostar. Since we would have to drive a section twice, we look for another route on the map. The navigation system simply does not want to take this route, we are irritated. At some point it will work, however, we get the hint from our Erna: Route contains unpaved sections. On me, it won't be that bad ?? But Erna was right: we drive around 30 kilometers on a dirt road, very narrow alley and have to cross a wooden bridge that doesn't inspire much confidence. I hold my breath, that no one meets us – we are lucky, it only meets us 4 vehicles !!!

Shortly before Mostar we come back to the road, we have experienced enough for today. This is how we head for an autocamp in Blagaj: a very nice camp with a super friendly operator, as a welcome drink we get the same time 2 large glasses of beer served. In the evening we can also have a delicious meal here for a few euros and take a warm shower again.

In Blagaj there is an old dervish monastery from the 15. century, Of course we'll look at that the next day. Around 10 Kilometers further we come to Mostar, the next highlight of Bosnia. The well-known bridge characterizes the picture of the pretty medieval village, there is of course a lot of hustle and bustle here, the tourists are out in droves. We like it very much here, we would not have imagined it to be so beautiful. It reminds me a bit of the Krämerbrücke in Erfurt ??

A delicious iced coffee brings back the spirits and we continue south. here, really nowhere (the place is called Zavala and still has 3 resident) there is a great parking space next to a pretty restaurant and a large cave. The host is very happy, that we stop at his place and first of all donates a glass of his delicious herbal grappa. The food is delicious and so we fall into bed with a full stomach.

Caves at Zavala

The nice landlord recommends us, that we should definitely visit the Vjetrenica caves the next morning. Said, did, I pack my thick jacket after breakfast and go underground. The cave is huge, of course quite cold (11 City) and really windy too. The nice guide explains to us, that the most animal fossils in the world have been found in this cave – we only find a small cave salamander.

Arrived back in the upper world, we jet further towards Dubrovnik – an absolute must on this tour. Crossing the border to Croatia is easy and soon we get a great view of the beautifully situated, old Town. Finding a parking space is quite difficult, there is no room for our fat Henriette in the small streets. Finally we find what we are looking for at the port and can park our vehicle there – for the proud price of 7,50 €/hour. From here we walk around to the old town 2 Kilometer, then we are in the middle of the hustle and bustle. The old town is really beautiful, everything super restored and spruced up. After a stroll through the narrow, steep alleys we decide, walk along the city wall. At the ticket counter, however, we decide against this plan: the entrance fee is 30– € (pro Person), we're too stingy for that. We prefer to buy a delicious ice cream and climb a few stairs, to get a view from above. To 3 hours we are done and happy, to escape from all the hustle and bustle.

Joyful, to sit in our Henriette again, we continue to the next border: Montenegro. As always, the border crossing is easy, It's already getting dark and so we head for a large square by the sea in Herceg Novi just across the border, where we can spend the night.

The next day (today is 11.09.) I start with a quick dip in the Adriatic Sea and a quick purchase in the nearest shop. Henriette is ready to go and we continue to the Bay of Kotor. We feel like in a Norwegian fjord – just with palm trees on the beach and by 31 City !!

I force mine to visit the medieval old town of Kotor 3 men too, it's at least as pretty here as in Dubrovnik, just a lot smaller. The city is lovingly run by the locals “City of Cats” called. The velvet paws enjoy cult status here and are allowed to do everything: in every bar you can see a few specimens dozing on the chairs.

I read on the way, that from here a great serpentine road goes into the highlands – Hans-Peter is looking forward to it 🙂 The road is very, very, very narrow and meanders the route from 8,3 kilometers with 32 Hairpin bends up into the mountains. Already in the first corner a coach comes towards us – my heart sinks into my pants !! Hans-Peter has to go around 200 drive backwards, the next cars are already pushing behind us, it's very exciting. The view of the bay is a dream, behind every curve it becomes even more gigantic and impressive, it's just breathtaking and I'm running out of superlatives. Of course, there are many other vehicles coming towards us, my husband's driving skills are challenged here – he and Henriette master it with ease.

an incredibly impressive route 🙂

After this experience we drive a little further, to reach the border with Albania. Here, too, the customs officers are easy and friendly, shortly after the border we find a quiet one on Lake Skadar, nice place.