15.01.2023 – we get up a little earlier, because we have big plans today :). Shortly after 9.00 We are full of anticipation at the Mexican border. The young customs officer explains to us, that he still has to dispatch the hunting party, then it would be our turn. All right then, we wait patiently and are amazed, how many rifle cases from the 5 vehicles are fetched and scanned. After an hour, everyone is checked and the officer attends to our vehicle. First of all, everything is inspected, the drug dog sniffs the car completely, the customs officer looks in all the cupboards, storage space, Refrigerator – nothing remains undiscovered. We have the impression, that he is simply curious and has never seen a vehicle like this before. its nice, also a very young colleague joins them and is also happy, to be able to see everything. Satisfied with the inspection, now comes the hard part – the papers. The two officials are hopelessly overwhelmed and do not know, what they have to do. They keep phoning their boss, want all sorts of paper from us – until they finally come to the realization, that they cannot help us – they send us to the nearest border to Nogales.
We will be escorted back to the USA, everyone apologizes for the inconvenience. So let's just stay a bit longer in the USA, drive round 200 kilometers to the nearest border. The border station Nogales is a lot bigger, here one seems to know, what to do with us. At the first barrier, the car is only checked briefly, asked about the reason for the trip and we're in Mexico. We drive along the outskirts of Nogales and immediately feel like we are in South America – the run-down favelas are always frightening. 21 Kilometers further is the actual customs station, there is almost nothing going on here. Immediately we receive our tourist card with the visa for 180 take. The TIP issuance takes a little longer, for the young border officials, our German papers are a real declaration of war. Unfortunately, we accidentally gave him the copy of ours 2. Pass (not the passport, with which we traveled) given, of course that messed everything up. But after 1,5 hours Hans-Peter managed that too and we can carry on relaxed. The schedule for today is gone, we need a parking space, because it's already getting dark. In Magdalena de Kino we ask at a motel, if we can stand in the parking lot for the night – and yes, for 10 dollars we get permission. The village is really to our liking – everywhere there is a delicious smell of pollo asado, tacos, open fire.…. splendid! Colorful street stands are everywhere, It's noisy, people meet at the Plaza Monumental. Our dogs are also the eye-catcher here, little girls come from all sides and want to caress the two – although there are a lot of street dogs running around here.
At night we hear the rain drumming on the roof, unfortunately it rains and the next morning the water comes continuously from above – this is not how we had imagined the Mexican weather ?? We have no other choice, than waiting in the car first.
The rain will last until the afternoon, only against 15.00 We can leave the car reasonably dry. We make a round through the nice town, have to see how we can cross the street, here flows instead of traffic now 10 cm of water. Now we understand too, why the sidewalks are so high here – there is simply no sewerage. Cash will be provided, the first Mexican groceries are bought. In the evening we set off again in search of a “pollo asado”. The stands are all closed today due to the rain, so we just have to switch to pizza. We'll find a fancy one, modern shop and have 10 minutes later 2 delicious pizzas in a box. They taste really really good, the last 2 Pieces are bedtime treats for the boys – the two do everything for it. It continues to rain at night, but the next morning we see a little patch of blue sky flashing through. We continue to Hermosillo, a really big city with right, real traffic. At Walmart we get a mobile phone card for Hans-Peter, pretty cheap and works fine. Then it's off to the MAN workshop, We just want to say hello here. Everyone is super friendly and very interested in our Henriette, everything is looked at and checked. Until all employees have inspected our vehicle, it's getting dark. Our boys are allowed to romp around on the premises, the owner persuades us, that we should spend the night in the parking lot – so we spend the night here on the workshop site – with security guards, fence and surveillance cameras – so perfectly protected.
The next morning we explore the area on the morning tour, find a large sports park, where the dogs can run around. Well behaved we clear up the piles of our boys – although it's actually completely free – the ground is littered with dog poo, beer cans, Chipstüten, cigarette butt, Food wrappers....... somehow you just don't understand it. We say goodbye to David and drive to the coast – since we will have to wait a week for our appointment in the workshop, worth the detour. With a few detours we come to the Roca Roja Beach – a pretty beach all to ourselves. Unfortunately, everything is pretty littered here too, we'll have to get used to that again. We enjoy the quiet here, only the sound of the waves can be heard. With binoculars we watch the pelicans fishing, waiting for the sunset and looking forward to this beautiful spot. In the evening we finally find time, upload photos from the past few days, to sort and delete – always a very difficult task !!
We'll take it easy on Thursday: sunbathe, read, in between, Hans-Peter works a bit in the Henriette, fixed the trash can and shortened our shower curtain. Unfortunately, there is a strong wind at midday, so it gets uncomfortable outside in the evening.
The next day, it is the 20.01. the sea is smooth as glass, not a breeze is blowing, it's getting really warm and I dare a quick dip in the rather cold water. We let the sun shine on our bellies, read, go for a walk – a wonderfully lazy “vacation day”.
Towards evening it will be stormy again today , the wind brings cold air, we barricade ourselves in our cozy living room. Our faces and bellies are quite red, we must have gotten a little sunburn!
The next morning we have to go to the village, there is an emergency in our fridge. In Bahia de Kino we can find everything we need in the small supermarket, Fortunately, the Oxxo also has beer. So equipped, it's a few kilometers to the next beach: Santa Rosa is the name of this super beautiful, kilometer-long sandy beach – an incredible cookie.
Nobody is here, a gorgeous sand, turquoise water and the pelicans play in the water.
In the afternoon we walk barefoot in the soft granules for ages, later we watch the pelicans, who start their aerobatic show right in front of us. Our dinner, on the other hand, turns out to be a coffee hour: actually I thought so, that I bought savory dumplings – but no, they are very tasty “burritos” filled with caramel – on me, they definitely taste good !
Of course there is still a spectacular sunset in the evening and a sparkling starry sky at night – we're pretty spoiled here now.
On Sundays the sun sizzles really nicely on our skin, we dare a very short bath, it's really too cold to swim. A few anglers are coming by today, trying their luck here – but unlike the pelicans, they are not very successful. The cell phone network only works sporadically here, since we don't need it right now, we don't mind.
The next 2 We spend days the same way: sunbathe, read, to take a walk on the beach, watching pelicans – and wait for the message from the MAN workshop.
On Wednesday we get the message we were hoping for: the spare parts are there, Henriette is to be completely renewed on Thursday – juhu !!! In the afternoon we leave our beautiful beach, tank up water in Bahia de Kino and drive back to Hermosillo. A quick trip to walmart, then we'll be there on time 18.00 o'clock in front of the workshop. Another short one, very exciting walk around (there are buddies hanging around on every corner here – we also discovered a dead buddy on the street:( – lots of junk to sniff, hanging around cats......). We can spend the night here on the farm again, so we'll be safe by tomorrow morning 8.00 Clock ready for the workshop.
In fact, we have had to set the alarm clock again for weeks 7.00 set clock – that's pretty hard. Against 8.30 Henriette is placed in the hall, I pack my backpack with dog blankets, Water and treats and head to the nearest park. To 3 kilometers I find the Madero Park and am amazed: I didn't expect such a beautiful park. he is very well groomed, a beautiful fountain serves as a watering hole for the boys and we can make ourselves comfortable on the well-tended lawn. the 2 doze off, I read a little and let the sun warm me. Hans-Peter informs us about the work, we will come back in the late afternoon, the windshield is installed, the wheels have been changed, installed the new flame starter system, changed the filters – everything looks good. A spare part only has to be ordered for the falling air pressure – that should then be delivered to the nearest workshop (who is also part of the family), 500 km further south.
We are also allowed to spend this night on the premises, we have to wait, until the bill is written – they couldn't do that today!
David comes in the morning, the workshop owner, visit us again in person and say goodbye. He was so helpful, nice and interested in our trip, made our stay in the workshop so easy – a really great person !!
After breakfast I try to cancel my subscription to the French mobile phone card – not an easy task at all. I can't get the website translated, so I have to fight my way through with my French leftovers. At some point I find the notice to cancel: you have to call first, then you get an SMS with the next clues. All right then – somehow it has to work. I get a nice lady on the phone, who unfortunately does not speak English – with a gibberish of English/French I explain my request to her and at some point she understands, what I want!! In fact, a few minutes later I get an SMS with the further procedure – i'm a little bit proud:). A few days later, however, the disillusionment: has the phone call 50,- € cost – International rate 🙁
After saying goodbye to David, we drive – again – actually in the wrong direction, namely to the north 🙂
David warned us about this, drive the coastal road, that would be too dangerous because of the drug cartels – we are unsure at first and therefore drive the highway ?? On the way we come through police checks twice, but are always waved through in a friendly manner. In Caborca we find a parking space behind a large gas station – OK for one night. With the boys there is still a walk to the local sports field, here we meet the street dog gangs – our boys are irritated :). More and more trucks come onto the square at night, it gets louder and louder. Against 3.00 At night a giant truck pulls up right next to us – and lets his engine run at full volume!!! We have the feeling, not having to sleep anymore and climb out of bed on wheels. Because we don't want to have such pitches anymore, let's drive – despite David's warning – continue on the country road. Shortly before Puerto Penasco there should be a nice parking space at a small oyster farm – that is our goal. We're amazed, as we drive to the beach here – suddenly there are individual high-rise hotels here, there is construction everywhere, You can only get through to the chic holiday home complex 2 guarded barriers.
Luckily the guards let us through and we find the Mini- Mini-Austernfarm: a small house with 4 tables and a huge parking lot. With our few chunks of Spanish we ask, if we can stand here for the night – this is not a problem. We'll let you know, that we against 18.00 o'clock will come to dinner – that is also clear. So we first take a nice walk on the huge beach – there seems to be a real ebb and flow here ?? As agreed, we are at the restaurant on time – of course we are the only guests. We order 2 Crab tostadas and death-defying 6 boiled oysters (although neither of us like oysters, respectively. I've never eaten oysters in my life). The tostadas taste great – the oysters baked with cheese cost a bit of effort. Aber o.k., we bravely eat them, they don't taste that bad – but I decide for my part, I don't need any more oysters in my life!!!
The night is incredibly quiet, what a respite after last night.
In the morning it storms like crazy, we brave the storm, have breakfast outside, let the washing machine run again after a long time. Suddenly there is a huge bang – the door slams – after that the lock no longer works – what a crap!! We can't believe it, There is always something wrong with this car – it drives you insane. It's just no fun! Annoyed we pack up and drive on. In Puerto Penalco we want to fill up with water, but there is only one vending machine here, where you can fill up bottles ? Filling up with water is not that easy here in Mexico, at the gas stations you only get salt water here – we don't want that in the tank. There are water filling stations in the cities, but often only to fill up bottles or canisters. On me, one tank is still full, so we continue to the next beach “Ejido La Frontera” – an incredibly beautiful place with a view of a huge sandy beach. Hans-Peter will deal with our broken lock right away, meanwhile I go for a walk with the dogs on the beach.
In fact, my husband was able to repair the lock again, everything works as before – Thank God!!!!!!! In the evening my husband gets to see an orca as compensation and he wins the Kniffel for the third time in a row.
The next morning we take the big camera with us on the beach walk – there are thousands of pelicans here. Hans-Peter takes great photos of the giant birds, that look a bit like pterodactyls, some specimens are downright ugly!! After the photo shoot we pack up and head towards Baja.
There is en route 2 military controls, at the first we are waved through in a friendly manner, in the 2. the car is carefully inspected, despite the dogs, the young man also controls our living space. On me, he has to do his duty. Shortly after Mexicali we come to our pitch – In the middle of a desert landscape there are countless parking possibilities, there are only a few coyotes around here. It rains heavily at night, the temperatures are going down ??
31.01.2023 – Today is our Carola's birthday, so after breakfast the first thing to do is make a phone call. Always beautiful, to talk to the family and above all, our 2 to see the sweet grandson live. We don't actually have a long distance ahead of us today, However, the trip turns out to be a very special tour: first it goes violently up the mountain to a pass of 1.100 m – just before the top of the pass, everything suddenly stops – one truck after another, nothing works anymore. We look, if we can see something – but the traffic jam is too long. After around 1,5 Hours slowly go by – on the left a truck drove into the rock face and 2 Kilometers further, the right-hand lane is no longer passable due to fallen rocks.
As we continue our journey, we look somewhat tensely upwards – not, that we will be hit by a boulder, the rock here looks very brittle. The traffic jam has barely cleared, it's getting tough again: there's a lot of snow up here (!) and all Mexicans are over the moon. Vehicles are parked everywhere, so photos can be taken, the children can slide in the snow, Snowmen are built and many pack snow in the cooler – it's quite a spectacle. We're confused too – actually we went to mexico, to escape the winter and now this winter wonderland !!
20 Miles later everything is back to normal: the mountains and meadows are green, the traffic has calmed down and we are making normal progress. Fast 5 We have hours for them 150 kilometers needed, it was a really impressive ride. However, it is too late for the planned wine tasting today, so we park Henriette in a lonely valley next to the vineyards. Another round of dogs, then a cozy evening.
At night we hear the coyotes howling loudly, actually dare the next day 2 Piece very close to our car (our 2 Security guards overslept it). After a walk through the vineyards, In the afternoon we go to the wine tasting: it will be explained to us during the rehearsal, that the Citto Winery is the largest winery in Mexico, they produce over 50 % of all Mexican wine. That's what they say 1.180.000 bottles (We take care of this:)). The estate was established before 150 years by an Italian – hence the many olive trees here. However, the test is very disappointing: for 10,- €/person we get 4 different wines to taste, the wine, that we actually wanted to try, we don't get it, the staff is extremely bored and unmotivated. On me, On suspicion we buy a few bottles and try the first variety in the Henriette in the evening: tastes really great.
We have to go on Thursday, our water tanks are almost empty. In Enselada we easily find a water house and with a thick hose both tanks are full in no time – for just €7 !!! The shopping is also done, then we look for a parking space at the port. We'll take a look around the town, stroll through the harbor district, however it is so cold, that we will soon return to our warm room .
Even though we are in the middle of the city, we spend a pretty quiet night. The construction workers only start their work in the morning, drive back and forth with their forklift. Our tour goes 30 Kilometer next to La Bufadora, here is the only blow hole in America. Barely arrived in town, is there a parking lot next to the other – apparently one expects a lot of tourists here. However, nothing is going on when we arrive, only 3 Vehicles park on the huge square. Then it goes through the tourist mile – we feel like in Rüdesheim in the Drosselgasse. Sellers immediately come from every corner, the us pina colada, Offer churros or baked oysters. It's a gauntlet run to the ultimate goal: dem Blow Hole – here the water from the Pacific splashes up to 30 meter high. The sea is quite calm today, so the water eruption is not quite as spectacular.
After half an hour we go back through the tourist alley, eat some tasty ones, overpriced churros and superior, what to do with the rest of the day. After a brief strategy meeting, we decide to continue south – to the nearest beach in La Bocana. A beautiful, 25 Kilometer long gravel road leads us through a green, fertile valley, here we discover coriander, Weisskraut, Artichokes and peas in the fields. At the end of the street there is a nice place with a view of the Pacific and a huge sandy beach. The shaken boys are looking forward to a romp, get in touch with the local buddies and refresh yourself with a cool salt water bath.
A nice local comes by, greets us warmly and says, that he is careful here – how nice. In fact, we still get neighbors late at night – incomprehensible, that another camper gets lost here. We greet our new neighbors on our nightly tour, 2 Mexican, sitting comfortably by the campfire. We are immediately invited to a “Mezcal” nightcap – tel, this is really hard stuff – tastes very interesting.
The sun greets us brightly the next morning, it promises, to be a perfect day. We decide immediately, definitely spend the day here. A nice neighbor comes to us, is glad, that we found here, the dogs have already met each other. We learn, that she since 2 lived here for years, previously lived in Los Angeles and is now working from home – what a great place to work :). Quappo is very happy about them 2 new playmates, especially the girl did it to him. Frodo also condescends and in the afternoon all four play enthusiastically on the sandy beach. We're going for a little walk, read, bake, cook and muddle in front of us. Towards evening we are greeted by our Mexican neighbors with a super delicious plate of prawns, Speck, a spicy sauce and freshly baked tortillas – it tastes fantastic and we are once again amazed by the hospitality !!
sunday morning, 8.00 clock – glorious weather – that promises a beautiful. to be a relaxing day – However, the day develops very differently !!! Drive half an hour later 3 pickups next to us, felt increase 20 People from equal is real life on the square. chairs, tables, parasol, Grill – everything is unpacked, there's coffee, Tortillas and the music is turned up loud. A short time later more vehicles are added, it seems to be a really big family reunion. We decide, after breakfast we break up our tents and leave the place to the Mexicans. According to iOverlander, there are still a lot of parking spaces here on the coast, so we go in search of the next beach. We have the gravel road back to the main road 1,5 hours well done, then it goes a few kilometers further on the main road. Our GPS lets us turn right in a small village – it doesn't look like a road at first ?? But apparently we are correct, there is no other route. All right then, It can only get better. The road is damn bumpy, a real washboard slope. Let's think for a moment, to turn around, but then decide, to continue. To 17 Kilometer Hoppelei turns our route to the left – actually looks pretty good. After more 2 kilometers, the road turns out to be a real adventure route: the furrows deepen, the street is getting narrower, the curves harder – Henriette and her driver are fully challenged. In the curves, we sometimes get a heavy leaning, once a piece of road really slips away. Oh Gott, where did we end up here? ?? It's not far to our destination now, we can already see the sea – we can do that now. 1,5 There are still kilometers, there the slope goes steeply downhill after a sharp curve – we stop first, look at us and decide, walk the piece first – a good decision. The last meters are unbelievable – rocky, steep, eng, washed out – we don't want to risk that. Without further ado, Henriette is parked on the meadow to the left and we decide, staying here and driving the route back the next morning. The boys are sweaty and have to run a lap to get rid of the stress. It's incredibly quiet at night, only a faint sound of waves can be heard. We'll read later, that this is an official race track for motorcycles and quads !!!
So the next morning we go back the route, in fact, a few motorcycles and quads are coming towards us. I'm glad, when we finally have tarred ground under us again. At the MEX 1 it drives quite well, we drive through a really lush green mountain world. In a small village we are fascinated by the stalls and shops along the street, Hans-Peter is briefly distracted and accidentally drives onto the hard shoulder. No 5 Minutes later we hear the sirens of a flashing police car behind us – they mean us ???? And, they mean us, we must stop, 3 Cops confront us: we would have just driven over the hard shoulder in town ?? where we wanted to go, where we came from, if we had been drinking? They think for a moment, that we should follow them to the police station, talk about punishment – but then let's just keep going – Thank God !!!
In Camalu we come to the sea on a short track, here we stand alone on the cliffs and let the wind blow around our ears.
In the morning we watch breakfast television: a few sea lions are playing in front of our place, surf relaxed on the waves, keep checking in on us – best entertainment. Later we drive back to the city, refill water at the Agua Purificada, shop and fill up. So equipped, it's off to Don Alvaro on the next corrugated iron track in the village of La Chorera. Alvaro seems to be the owner of everything here: there is a vast beach restaurant, a run-down campsite, small houses and a super nice sandy beach. Behind the beach we discover a nature reserve: endless dunes on a promontory, in between lies a small volcano, you can walk barefoot here for hours ! After exploring, we leave the tired dogs in the car and look forward to ours 2. Restaurant visit 🙂 on the trip. There is delicious seafood here, we choose shrimp diabolo and shrimp with garlic. And of course there are tortillas, everything tastes delicious. come shortly after us 2 more guests, the first thing to do is to find the plug and start the generator, so that the lamp gives some light – always an experience here !! At the end we order a coffee and have to smile: on a tray we get 2 cups of hot water, a bowl of Nescafe and a bowl of sugar !
As the nature reserve is so beautiful, we make a big hike the next morning to the next kilometer long, deserted sandy beach. We find beautiful sea urchin skeletons, that look like tickets to the cannabis festival. Back at the car, is there a fast nescafe, then we drive 30 Kilometers further along the coast to the next beach – also here we find a huge sandy beach, that we have all to ourselves. we use the nice spot for a day of strolling: laundry is being washed, Windows are cleaned, did some sewing, Written messages to home ………
A walk on the beach in the afternoon, sit in the sun a bit, then it quickly gets cold and we retire to our living room.
The next stretch on the MEX1 – the main thoroughfare here on the Baja – is very tiring to drive: the street is very narrow, right and left it goes down half a meter and there is a lot of traffic here – one truck after another, felt 50 Military trucks will meet us in half an hour (appears to have been a great exercise), driving is no fun. In La Rosario we can fill up with water quickly and cheaply, the 2 Mexicans are very friendly and helpful, we hardly drive from Hof, lie in their hammocks again. There is also a supermarket here, so we are equipped for the next few days. In the cactus wonderland we park Henriette for the night, we are surrounded by thousands of cacti, rocks and stones – a very special corner. It's really hot the next morning, already for breakfast the bikini is put on – splendid. On the way there is a short detour to a small cave, where rock carvings can be admired. A small path leads steeply up to the cave, the paintings are really easy to see. There are a lot of rock paintings here on the Baja, some of these works are up to 5.000 Year old.
A few more kilometers it goes through the cactus country, then the landscape suddenly changes and we drive through green pastures. A short time later we turn onto the MEX5 – a much broader one, better road, all around there are only stone deserts.
Our target is Papa Fernandez, a messy beachfront campground on the Gulf of California, here we have arranged to meet up with our friends Michi and Andy from off-road training 3 years in Langenaltheim. Our friends Klaus and Susanne also wanted to come here, so we look forward to a nice weekend. In fact, we can already see the two large vehicles from afar and the hello is big !!!! There is a lot to tell, the men exchange ideas about the vehicles, the women about the various pitches. Towards evening we go together to the small restaurant on the square, eat delicious Mexican food and then end the evening comfortably at the large campfire with a beer or a glass of wine. end wine. At night it storms very violently, unfortunately the storm doesn't allow breakfast outside the next morning either.
Michi and Andy come to say goodbye, of course we talk for a while, a few photos still need to be taken and the contacts will be exchanged. Later, Klaus and Hans-Peter try to move the vehicles around, that we can hold off the wind a bit – but it's blowing so hard, it's just uncomfortable outside. After a walk with the dogs and a short stop at the Wifi spot, we go back to the small restaurant in the late afternoon. The landlady is happy, that we one 2. come over, we are happy about the delicious food. A campfire is not possible today, it's really freezing cold now, we even turn the heating on again after a long time.
The weather doesn't seem to be getting any better, so we pack our things and move further south. We make a brief stop at a small grocery store, we see another Overlander driving by. no, he doesn't pass, he turns and comes back to us !! It's Manfred and Rita, we have already met the two briefly in Canada in Stewart. We chat a little with each other, and the three of us drive to the next parking space. Arrived in Bahia de los Angeles, a real wagon complex is built, so that the storm doesn't blow us all at once. The stories are told during the coffee round, Manfred and Rita have been on the road with their mobile for quite a while and can tell many nice stories. Later the men get to work on the car – there is always something to do – we women go for a little walk with the dogs.
Unfortunately, it's too windy and cold here for a campfire, so we make ourselves comfortable in the Henriette. The wind howls around the cars all night, the next morning it has to be looked at first, what so everything rattles. The screws are tightened, our caravan moves further south. We cross the Baja again and come 2 Hours later to a nice spot on the Pacific. Rain clouds pass over us, we defy the weather (we are in Mexico, it should always be warm here ?) and make ourselves comfortable in the evening around a large campfire. At night you can hear the waves incredibly loud, a nice lulling sound.
The next day greets us with clouds and storm, so we continue south. In Guerrero Negro we make a supply stop, get water, groceries and beer. Meanwhile, our friends Susanne and Klaus are visited by the police patrol with the argument, they would park wrong here. None of us can understand this accusation, because the little man stands quite correctly on the hard shoulder, does not hinder anyone and there is enough parking space for everyone else. On me, the traffic wardens don't give up and the two have to go to the police station. After further negotiations and € 60 poorer, they are finally allowed to continue – you have to be really careful here.
In the late afternoon we reach our destination: „free eye“ ! There is plenty of room for our wagon train, the three monsters make a great picture. Together we go to the pier and get the information, that tomorrow morning off 8.00 o'clock the boats go out for whale watching. There is also wifi here, so the messages are checked quickly, called up the weather forecast and sent a few Whatsapp. Back in our village quick dinner, then it is gambled: we play a few rounds of Rummy Cup with Susanne and Klause, outside we hear the coyotes (and also Frodo and Quappo) howl 🙂
Thursday, the 16. February – today we start the tour to the whales. We set the alarm for that, get up at dusk and make our way to the boats.
After a short drive we are actually in the middle of the "whale soup": from all sides come the mighty beasts, they come so close to the boat, that we can pet them – an indescribable feeling !! The gray whales are incredibly trusting, we are all fascinated and moved by this experience.
The giants keep showing up, next to and behind us, make their rounds, appear in full size, dive under the boat and come close to the railing, to be petted. To 2 unbelievably impressive hours we are back, flashed and full of happiness !!! The rest of the day we have to digest what we have experienced, sit comfortably in the sun, talk to the passing campers, go for a walk with the dogs and sit in front of our photos in the evening and marvel 2. Mal.
Rest is the order of the day for the next day: we have to digest it all first ! Susanne, Klaus, Manfred and Rita drive into town, to get some things done, we change the location, drive a few meters further and now have a fantastic view of the lagoon. Our friends brought firewood from the city, so we prepare for a nice campfire. Grilling beforehand, the food tastes even better together. The fire burns well, keeps us all warm, a fantastic starry sky shines above us – life can't get any better.
On Saturdays the alarm clock has to hear it again, a 8.00 There are six of us at the ticket counter. There are already a lot of tourists here today, so queuing is announced. But then it goes very quickly: tickets bought, Put on life jackets and we're already in the boat. Again there are tons of whales around us, swim curiously to the boat, appear, swim beneath us – you don't even know, where to look everywhere. The last whale is really curious, can be petted, swims around us for minutes, with his blow he showers me properly – I am soaking wet and infinitely happy – what an experience !! The rest of the day is great too: it's really warm today, a quick dip in the lagoon is a must, the men let the drone fly, we play a game of boules, walk with the dogs, tell and enjoy the adventure together. Such an amazing experience to share with friends, makes things even nicer !!!
Clouds will gather on Sunday, we decide, to leave the beautiful place and drive on. The route goes over the MEX1, again there are police controls, as always we are asked, where we want, where we come from and what we do here. Once we are even asked, how long we've been married – was, fast 40 years married – the policeman took pity on us and let us drive on. We laugh about this question for a long time.
The route leads for kilometers through a barren desert landscape – until we suddenly come to a huge palm oasis. St. Ignatius was killed 1728 founded as a mission station by a Jesuit priest, who has created a real paradise here in the middle of the desert. The small church in the nice place is also very pretty, on the plaza one cafe follows the next. We pay a short visit to the Mercado, further we drive on muddy tracks to the Lagoon San Ignacio. At Kuyima we find a parking space (20 dollars for a parking spot on the sand), next to it there is a small restaurant, we have dinner here. The boat for the next day is reserved, in the car there is a fun game night with Susanne and Klaus, we learn the rules for phase10.
In the morning we leave early for our 3. Waltour – this time we have the whole boat for our troop alone. We get a short explanation about the location and the whales, it's off to the lagoon at full steam. We languish for the first few minutes, nothing happens, then suddenly the gray ridges appear on all sides. 3 – 4 Animals play around us, it's great fun, to watch this hustle and bustle. Later, a mother comes by with her baby, the little one is totally curious and lets us all pet it. I've put my phone away now, so you can enjoy it much more relaxed and let it work. Knapp 2 We spend hours with the giants, actually you want to stay much longer. A quick breakfast will be served back on land, then we all head back to the dirt track. Our cars are all the same color now: "mud" :).
In the afternoon we reach today's destination: Eco-Tours Three Virgins, a parking lot from the restaurant/hotel, on which we just find a place. Two other German couples are also stranded here, a funny coincidence. The food in the restaurant tastes delicious, after that there is a dog round in the drizzle. Zora has hers today with her buddies 3. celebrated birthday – a great location for the party !! Everyone is up in the feathers this morning dreaming of the baby whale.
On Tuesdays, Manfred and Rita say goodbye to us, she moves to La Paz for the Starlink package she ordered. We promise ourselves, that we will see each other again soon – it was so much fun with the two of them. Against 11.00 We put on our hiking boots, unbuckle the backpack and set off on the volcano tour. The way is well signposted, only once do we miss the right turn because of all the gossip and do an extra lap. The trail goes through beautiful cactus forests along the rim of the volcano, we sweat, when the sun comes out, quickly put on the rain jacket, when the next short shower comes – Today is real April weather. A really nice circular route, knapp 10 The route is kilometers long. The only drawback: there are thousands of goat heads again in the last few kilometers, especially Zora keeps catching the small thorns in her thick fur. But Frodo and Quappo also hobble again and again, we are constantly on duty as nurses.
Back at the parking lot, Klaus and Hans-Peter help the owner Oskar to loosen a few more screws – our strong men can do it very quickly with their tools. In the afternoon we drive close 30 kilometers to the nearest beach on the Gulf of California, not a very nice place, there is a lot of firewood lying around here. A fireplace is quickly built, Klaus saws the wood into small logs and we have a great campfire, millions of stars later appear in the sky.
There is a pretty good network here, this opportunity must be used: we actually both order a Starlink, to be delivered to La Paz – it's like christmas
We continue slowly towards the south, we come to Mulege, a nice little hamlet in an oasis of dates- and coconut trees. Everywhere the bougainvillaes bloom in all colors with full splendor – it's a Dream. There is a great spot on the beach, a handful of campers are also here. The dogs find many new fur friends, meanwhile they got used to the many buddies here. The temperatures are felt 10 degrees warmer than the previous days, finally the shorts are allowed out of the closet again. After half an hour's walk we find a really nice pub in the village, eat a mexican hamburger, drink an American beer with it – viva mexico !
The next day's route leads along the beautiful coast, postcard-perfect sandy beaches, turquoise blue, sparkling water, swarm of pelicans falling into the water, rocky islands rising out of the water – huge, wide trucks, coming towards you on the narrow street.
the other 2 days we really "holiday": a stony one leads behind a cattle fence, steep path (a place, which can only be achieved with a long wheelbase and all-wheel drive) to a huge sandy beach, here it can be endured. Bikini dressed, into the glaskare, immersed in almost pleasantly warm water, let the sun burn on your stomach, Beer by the campfire – we're having a good time !!
The next morning the sun disappears behind thick clouds, the wind blows icy cold – the bathing thing isn't going to happen today, that's why everyone works on the cars, rearrange, up and back again.
Unfortunately the weather doesn't seem to be getting any better, so we have to follow the sun and steer Henriette further south. Grab some water on the go, Bought empanadas (so dinner is secured), a few kilometers further. No going to the beach today, but a few meters further inland – we are in the middle of a rugged mountain world. Packed with backpacks we look for a way through the Tabor Canyon. Zora runs in front of us, there must have been a chamois in her family tree, she climbs over the thick boulders so lightly and easily. We bipeds sometimes scramble on all fours, from time to time the bum has to be used to slide down, it's great fun – reminds a bit of the Felsenmeer in the Odenwald. There are small water holes along the way, those of the 3 Furry animals can be used as a pool and drinking trough. After just under 2 kilometers we stand in front of an insurmountable boulder – now we would either have to swim or dare a real climbing tour. Under great protest from Zora we decide to turn around and walk back.
We caught the sun here again, we are already looking for the shadow – it changes so quickly.
sunday morning: Sonne, blue sky, shorts – brief briefing with the large map by Klaus – there is still so much to see, so let's go. After a few kilometers we leave the MEX1 towards Puerta Aqua Verde. The first 10 kilometers the road is quite normal, then it turns into a gravel road. The road gets narrower and narrower, I sincerely hope, that no car is coming towards us. It goes over a small pass, the curves become more extreme, the slope getting steeper. Klaus' little man in front of us is swaying quite violently, fortunately there is not much traffic, no one comes towards us.
In front of us we can already see the blue of the Gulf of California glittering, the landscape is stunningly beautiful. For the last ones 20 kilometers we need a good hour, the reward is a secluded spot right on the beach. The toe test says, that the water is not that cold, so we swim in the crystal clear water, accompanied by the bombings of the pelicans. The panorama is very special, as designed by a good stage designer: bizarre rocks rise up directly behind the beach, huge gray islands emerge from the sea, pink clouds drift across the sky, in the sky, the pelicans inspire with their sensational flying skills.
Hans-Peter cooks a delicious chicken wok, In the evenings, however, we sit at dinner in down jackets and woolen hats, a cold wind has come up.
We are drawn to the next beach: after an adventurous descent (hopefully we can get out of there again ??) we end up in an absolute postcard idyll: Sandy beach on the right, pebbly beach on the left, surrounded by rocky mountains, blue, crystal clear water and the sun burns down from the sky – you can endure it here. Best conditions, around our SUP, which is still unused in the packaging, unpack, inflate and lower into the water. Surprisingly, I don't end up in the water right away, after a few minutes I can even go from kneeling to a standing position. That part is really fun, you can actually make progress quite quickly. Klaus and Susanne got out their paddle boat, so today everyone is on the water. In the evening we feel the sun on our skin, a day on the water is really dangerous. The next 2 Days pass comfortably: baden, essen, paddle, play boule, essen, drink, play boule, essen, sonnen, read ……….
Susanne tests her oven and bakes a delicious banana cake and later an ingenious beer bread – both do not survive the day, in the evening the last crumb is eaten.
Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate as planned: it will be stormy and cold. Instead of paddling, we walk to the next bay, let's taste the fish tacos at the mini beach bar and get for 15 Pesos sogar Wifi !
Quick check, what's going on at home – Thank God everything is ok. Back on our "lonely" beach we discover a horde of American jeeps, who have spread here directly on the water. The equipment is sensational, impressed let's look at the professional kitchens, Grills, tents, boats, awnings, Photo- and diving equipment, Fairy lights and a thousand other little things. Two Americans from the force run a professional outdoor gear shop- that explains everything.
A look at the phone – we are really scared – it actually is 2. March, the week is almost over, we no longer have any sense of time. There's a lot going on at our beach today: a small cruise ship has anchored, around 60 Tourists are brought ashore in small boats, the mules are already here, horses, enterprising Mexicans with souvenirs and tacos ready. After a few hours, the spook is over, only a few campers are standing around. The clouds don't want to break up, the wind is getting stronger – there is a siesta in the Henriette.
The sun didn't come out the next day either, the wind is blowing harder and harder. Swimming is going to be really difficult today, the waves keep throwing me back onto the shore, Hans-Peter, on the other hand, enjoys the surf. Also, short briefing for four: we decide, to drive on. We have to go back for that, d.h. Hoppel route for 3 hours. Back on the “highway” water is first collected and groceries procured. A little way from the main street we discover a beautiful cactus square. A VW bus joins us, the men are talking, when we suddenly get a surprise guest: a giant tarantula crawls around our feet – nobody knows, who is more afraid: People, dogs or the arachnid ?? Hans-Peter dares and carries our guest a few meters further – we prefer not to walk around here without shoes.
On Saturdays, Susanne took over the route planning, she wants to go to a secluded sandy beach on the Pacific – lt. Google looks nice there. The downside to this plan is, that there are only dirt roads here, that lead to the goal. On me, we try our luck, Klaus takes over the vanguard and navigation, we follow unobtrusively. The path is getting narrower, the cactuses are cut to the right and left, the sand gets finer and finer. Eventually Klaus gets stuck, we have to let air out of the tires, it's already moving forward. 15 kilometers and 4 Hours later we are actually standing on a huge sandy beach, except herons and frogs there is nobody here. The dogs romp about in the sand, however, this sand is as fine as powder and all the dog's legs look dipped in cement. Zora needs a complete shower, Wrapped in a towel, she is carried into the car – just don't jump out again. Our gentlemen brush for half an hour, but somehow the whole Henriette is totally dirty.
We are compensated by a great campfire, so we can enjoy the evening outside and explore the constellations.
You can't stay here any longer, the cement dust wears you down. So the next day we continue on the dirt roads back to civilization. On the way we have to turn around a few times, to find the right way. At a few huts we ask a local, how it goes on – and go wrong again. Henriette really wants to play in this sandbox, she digs deeper and deeper, until nothing works. With shovels, Curse, Mats, Tow rope and a lot of sweat we'll eventually make it out. The Mexican followed us on his mule and looked interested (and amused) our efforts. Henriette is hardly back on the right path, she's stuck again – the full program again, to do this, quite a lot of air is let out of the tires. We're getting further, the next passages we slide through the sand without getting stuck. After this tour, the MEX1 seems much wider to us than usual !
Overnight in cactus land again, everyone is a little tired, so the lights go out early in the Henriette. So, now there are only 55 Kilometer from La Paz! On the way, a young cyclist waves to us, she asks, Can we lend her a pump?. Of course we can, we only have to drive a few meters further, to find a place to patch tires. We can't believe our eyes, here the boyfriend is already standing with his arms crossed, waiting for his partner. He doesn't think about it, to help with the tire action, that's really incredible. Klaus and Hans-Peter take care of the girl, repair, patch and pump up the tube again, finally we continue. We are looking forward to our campsite: the two Starlink packages are waiting for their family, there are also washing machines on site – what a dream.
In fact, this is a great campsite, everything super neat, clean and well organized. The men unpack the Starlink antenna with gleaming eyes, will be tested soon – and yes, it works super easy. We women are enthusiastic about the huge washing machines, 21 Kilos of laundry can be washed here at once, a housewife's dream. Inside, Henriette is being dusted, scrubbed, polished – the sand really is in every crack. After so much housework we're done, want to eat somewhere else and have a beer. Unfortunately, all the restaurants nearby are already closed, so we only have the nice cafe on the square, at least we get a delicious sandwich here.
Very early in the morning, Susanne lines up at the washing machines, they are very popular here and constantly occupied. secure 7 We let machines run, the sun dries everything in seconds. Henriette's interior is like new, the internet is fantastic with our new antenna, so finally the blog can be continued, uploaded the photos, created backups, the weather report is checked and the further journey is planned. At noon a Ridgeback comes by with his Hungarian mistress, we have to laugh when we introduce it – her name is also Susanne – what a coincidence ! Quappo thinks his new buddy is great, a round will soon be raged. In the evening Hans-Peter and I go to the restaurant around the corner, are served terrific shrimp empanadas and ceviche. Susanne and Klaus stay where they are, they are too tired from all the cleaning and tidying up to come along.
After more than three weeks we say goodbye to our great travel friends Susanne, Klaus and Zora – It was a lot of fun, experience part of the tour together. The three are now driving in a different direction, they want to go back to the USA and Alaska in the spring – but we hope to meet again sometime and somewhere. It suited us so well, that the 3 Weeks have flown by – wasn't planned at all, turned out like this, we just got along really well.
International Women's Day, the 08.03. !! We're headed for the nearest Walmart, work through our shopping list and continue fully packed in the direction of Todos Santos. Unfortunately, baby turtles are no longer available, the last nest is in front 4 days hatched – injury. The first two pitches, which we approach, don't convince us, so we drive to the Jimi Beach. To our great surprise we see a well-known vehicle standing here: they are our friends Manfred and Rita – how nice. Another overlander, Jürgen and Hilde from Leads, parked next to it, in the evening Stefanie and Ozymandias from Switzerland join us at the campfire, a nice round, there is a lot to tell.
After a quiet night we spend a fun day at the beach: first we chat for a long time with the friendly Swiss, then we meet a lively Mexican couple at our car, who enthusiastically inspect our Henriette. The bottle of mezcal is about to be taken out, the glass is passed around and filled again and again, plus a beer – we're already tipsy !!
We while away the evening at the campfire with the other four, Manfred brought extra wood from his shopping trip today.
Just always beautiful: campfire
“long term”-Traveling - you really have to learn that first. In Canada and the US, we've always had that feeling, having to take all the highlights with you (which of course is impossible). Now we notice here, that we need time, to digest the experience, to sort the photos in your cell phone and in your head and really switch off. That's how we stay every now and then 3 or 4 days on a pitch, that speeds things up immensely.
Again we can see whales swimming through the water from our place in the afternoon, incomprehensible, how close they swim by here. The sun is burning all day today, we are looking for shade for our awning, our boys tan on the hot sand.
On Saturday morning, during breakfast, the whales frolic in front of our eyes again: Hans-Peter quickly launches his drone and is able to film a gray giant from above:
Ossi from Switzerland comes over for a chat, they both have a lot of travel experience, so there is a lot to tell. Later, on my evening walk, I meet another resident of the Baja: a Baja rattlesnake is on the way. A Mexican teases her with his fishing rod, she protests loudly and violently. Quappo and Frodo wanted to take a closer look at the twitching stick, I can stop her at the last moment!
13.03.2023: birthday party – my better half celebrates his birthday quite comfortably here on the beach: the Swiss Stefanie and Ozy stop by, Bring Manfred and Rita 4 Glasses of tequila, to kick off in a country-appropriate way, in the distance the great grays wave their fins, also beste Location !!
The cell phone rings all day – it's like home. How well, that our Starlink works and all congratulations arrive. The Swiss say goodbye, they continue north – we will surely meet again sometime. In the evening we drink a bottle of Cetto sparkling wine (- and later another bottle of tequila :)) with our dear neighbors Rita and Manfred, a perfect end to the celebration of the day.
Somehow the supplies are quite depleted, we decide, to drive a little further. So it's time to say goodbye to the people of Passau that we've come to love – of course only with the promise, that we meet again – somewhere and sometime !!! It is great, that you meet so many nice people while traveling, Luckily, nowadays you can simply keep in touch, so there is a chance, that we can meet again. In Cabo San Lucas we get water, groceries and beer, drive through the turbulent town and now know, why you this place “Mallorca” who names Americans and Canadians: here is right, really busy, a restaurant, Cafe, Bar, Surf shop next to the other, huge, snazzy hotel complexes, green golf courses, mile-long jetties with yachts and sailing boats. Music blares from every corner, there is already a good mood here at noon – Tequila you're Dank! The coastal road takes us further along the most sophisticated holiday villas and super hotels to San Jose de Cabo. This is also a winter holiday destination for Canadians and Americans, but not quite as exuberant as the neighboring town. After the hustle and bustle we look for a quiet place on the beach: our navigation system sends us onto a catastrophic sandy track, everything is shaken up violently again – on the road map this is as “normal” route specified ?? Unfortunately, there are no places here either, the beach is very nice though, but everything is fenced in, hundreds of Privado signs line the way. Back on asphalt, we turn off at the next opportunity and find a small surfing spot. The surfer boys welcome us, everything is relaxed, the sea in front of the door – here we stay.
You can walk for kilometers on the beach here – and the best: you can swim excellently here: the water is pleasant and the waves tolerable, In addition, a few whales are always swimming in the distance. At breakfast the next morning, more visitors join us: 3 nice donkeys with their baby are totally curious and almost slip into the car. Our boys are a little confused, but put up with the gray visitors. They are happy to take water and carrots from us, that tastes so good, that they stay with us in the shade for a long time. In the afternoon our little beach fills up more and more, a local enlightens us, that tomorrow there is a big festival in San Jose and therefore the beach can get very crowded in the next few days.
We decide the next morning, to drive the Camino Cabo Este a little further. at 2 kilometers there are small bays and parking spaces, you can't decide. Some places are full of VW buses, sprinters and surfboards: there are probably particularly good waves here! We're looking forward to it, our gravel road changes its surface to a beautiful asphalt – after 3 But after a few kilometers the smooth ride is already over: Henriette has to master bumps and sand again. Around 12 Kilometers further we find a spot that suits our taste: much, lots of space, endless beach and a straight area for parking – here we stay!! The neighbors' dogs come right away to say hello, Frodo and Quappo are accepted, so everything is very relaxed.
The water immediately entices you to swim, wonderfully clear and pleasantly tempered! We read, sonnen, go for a walk on the beach, the day flies by. With the photo, Hans-Peter can actually take photos of the giants from the breakfast table – it's so impressive. Also the next day (Friday, the 17.03.) let's stop here, lie lazily in the sun up ……….
A horn startles us – there we see a well-known car ?? Yes done, the little man with Susanne and Klaus is heading towards us – was eine schöne Überraschung!!! A second vehicle behind: Nicole and Marc from Tuttlingen with their Sprinter. Nicole has not seen any whales from shore yet, we promise her, that she will definitely see some here. Less than a minute later, the gray bumps appear in the waves, Marc immediately gets the drone out, films a mother whale with her baby- here the result:
In the evening, the men light a campfire with difficulty – there is hardly any firewood lying around here. The six of us enjoy the fire, tell and chat, until everyone's eyes slowly shut from tiredness – such a life is just exhausting:)
Friday morning, the Tuttlingen say goodbye, they have to watch the clock a little more, they must be in Baltimore in July, to ship back to Germany. The two are even younger, just took half a year off, to experience this amazing journey.
Today it is (again) really windy, one has to pay attention, that you don't lose everything. Another honk sounds around noon: Manfred and Rita discovered us and ours are already there 3 Thick reunited. The day flies by walking, To swim, To read ……
We all spend the weekend here together, Despite doing nothing, time flies very quickly. Klaus and Hans-Peter are playing boules: after the first round, a ball disappeared in the sand ?? To 1,5 hours of shoveling, they find the fugitive again, that's how everyone does their sport. Rita kocht als beste Köchin der Welt und Umgebung leckere Bratkartoffel für Manfred, das muss ich heute Abend gleich nachmachen.
The waves are sometimes violent here, the current should not be underestimated either. It happened to me once while swimming, that I'm not careful, brand, that I'm pretty far out. Not bad, I think, i am a good swimmer – but notice, dass trotz aller Anstrengungen das Ufer kaum näher kommt. Nun muss ich wirklich alle Kräfte mobilisieren, to swim against the current, I'm getting a little queasy. After what feels like an eternity, I make it back out of the crest of the waves and take it upon myself, be more careful next time.
At noon Susanne and I want to walk a bit on the beach, but after a few meters, Susanne rams a sea urchin spine lying around in her big toe! The toe is about to turn red, thick and painful, she can't go on.
How dangerous is such a beach life !!!
Morgens aus dem Bett hüpfen, dann gleich splitterfasernackt ins Meer abtauchen – so kann der Tag beginnen. Zusammen mit Klaus und den Hunden laufen wir eine große Runde am endlosen Strand, zwischenzeitlich hat Hans-Peter schon ein leckeres Frühstück gerichtet. Manni ist mit der Frage beschäftigt, was für eine Drohne er sich nun kaufen soll – seine hat ja leider die Wellen an der Jimi Beach zu genau angeschaut. Klaus und Hans-Peter lassen ihre Drohnen mehrfach fliegen und bekommen tolle Bilder vor die Linse !!
We always make it at night, to light a campfire, sitzen alle 6 lange draußen, tell stories at a, zwei, drei …… Bierchen. Frodo bekommt unglücklicherweise einen brennenden FUnken ab – jetzt hat er eine Brandmarke auf der Seite 🙁
Later we make another very unpleasant discovery: clear, with so many days as a freelancer on a deserted beach, quite a bit of junk accumulates. We stored it nicely in the storage box – and there are now millions of stowaways – we have a maggot invasion – the bluebottles have done all the work!! Hans-Peter clears everything out, cleans several times, nevertheless, there is always a worm in some crack – pretty gross. The garbage is first stored under the Henriette, the next morning we put all the bags in our hammock and hang them up on the driver's cab. Learned something again – we'll do that next time.
Actually, Susanne and Klaus wanted to continue on Monday, we had planned, to move north on Tuesday ? But the weather, the beach, the sea, die nette Gesellschaft – actually everything is perfect, so we all just stay 2 days together here.
Wednesdays, lt. Kalender der 22.März, müssen wir uns tatsächlich verabschieden: Klaus und Susanne fahren Richtung Cabo San Lucas weiter, sie haben im April einen Termin in Denver, wollen dann weiter Richtung Alaska. Manfred und Rita schlagen die gleiche Richtung ein wie wir, sie dümpeln langsam an den Buchten der Baja entlang, still 30 take “müssen” (was ein schweres Los) sie in Mexiko bleiben, bis sie zurück in die USA fahren.
So tuckern wir die holprige Sandpiste weiter bis zum Nationalpark Cabo Pulmo, ein nationaler Marine-Park mit dem ältesten Korallenriff an der Westküste Nordamerikas. Dummerweise haben wir nicht darüber nachgedacht, uns vorher mit Schnorchel-Equipment auszustatten, so können wir leider die hier lebenden Fische nicht bewundern. Es gibt hier nur die Möglichkeit, sich eine Taucherbrille/Schnorchel auszuleihen, darauf haben wir keine Lust. Am Playa Miramar finden wir ein hervorragendes Plätzchen, um den Tag und die Nacht zu verbringen. Hier kann man gut ins Wasser, es ist wenig Wellengang, das Wasser glasklar, man kann alle Steinchen am Boden zählen. Unsere Vorräte neigen sich nach 8 Tagen langsam zur Neige, so werden nun auch die eisernen Reserven (Konservendosen) aufgebraucht. Wir sind erstaunt, wie gut wir eingekauft haben, bislang schaffen wir es immer noch, ein leckeres Essen zu zaubern.
Am nächsten Tag wird unser kleiner Strand mit Kitern bevölkert, über Nacht ist heftiger Wind aufgekommen. Wir schauen dem Treiben fasziniert zu: es scheint ganz schön schwierig zu sein, diese Teile zu beherrschen ?? Gefühlt verbringen die Sportler die meiste Zeit mit dem Aufbau und Abbau der Schirme, Seile und Bords. Zum Schwimmen ist es uns zu wellig und zu kühl, wir verbummeln den Tag mit Telefonieren mit zu Hause, To read, Spazierengehen, baking bread, Kochen mit den allerletzten Vorräten …………
So, nun hilft alles nichts mehr, im Kühlschrank herrscht ernster Notstand, wir müssen einkaufen. Nach Norden geht es noch rund 20 km weiter auf der Wellblechpiste, unerhofft wechselt dann der Strassenbelag auf Asphalt – eine Erholung für alle. In La Rivera können wir Wasser tanken, in einem kleinen Tienda findet sich alles Notwendige an Lebensmittel. Der Strand im Ort ist super schön – kilometerlanger Sandstrand mit Palapas und nur eine Handvoll Camper. Mittlerweile läuft aber die Windmaschine auf volle Power, man kann wirklich überhaupt nicht raus, sofort ist man sandgestrahlt.
So entscheiden wir, nach Los Barilles weiterzufahren, 30 Kilometer weiter. Kurz vor dem Ort finden wir ein nettes Plätzchen direkt am Wasser. Der Ort ist wohl eine Kiter-Hochburg, hier tummeln sich unzählige verschiedene Fallschirme, Windsurfer und Bords auf dem Wasser und in der Luft. Beim Strandspaziergang können wir die Jungs genauer beobachten, hier scheinen echt die Profis auf dem Wasser zu sein. Frodos und Quappos Ohren sind komplett durchgepustet, mit dem Rückenwind sind wir in der halben Zeit am Auto zurück.
Samstagmorgens ist es zuerst einigermaßen windstill, doch gegen 11.00 Uhr wird hier wieder alles durcheinandergewirbelt ! Die Chance, mal durch ein Städtchen laufen zu können, wird genutzt und wir bummeln durch Los Barilles. Es gibt ein paar nette Läden, Restaurants, Cafes und einen Farmersmarkt. Langsam bekommen wir Durst, wollen irgendwo etwas trinken gehen. Also, auf dem Rückweg am Strand hatten wir viele Leute beim Cafe trinken gesehen, so steuern wir dahin. Am Ziel unserer Wünsche angekommen, werden wir enttäuscht: das sind alles Hotelanlagen und nur Hotelgäste kommen über einen Code durchs Tor. What now ??
Aufgeben gibt es nicht, so laufen wir wieder zurück ins Städtchen. Die Jungs lassen mittlerweile die Zunge bis auf den Boden hängen, es ist schon richtig heiß. Schließlich werden wir doch noch fündig: ein nettes Lokas namens Cactus scheint genau richtig für uns zu sein. Unsere Hartnäckigkeit wird fürstlich belohnt: hier gibt es frisch gezapftes Bier und leckeres Essen. Hans-Peter bestellt sich eine Molcajete – ein in einem Lavastein gekochtes, scharfes Gericht mit Gemüse, Fleisch und einer hammerhaft leckeren Soße. Zufrieden und satt schlendern wir zurück zum Auto, den restliches Tag verbringen wir mit verdauen 🙂
Morgens ein kurzes Bad im Meer, Frühstück und Strandspaziergang – Perfect. Da an unserem Platz recht viel Verkehr herrscht, überlegen wir, zum nächsten Strand zu fahren. Henriette wird gepackt, schon sind wir auf der MEX1. 10 Minuten später sehen wir ein bekanntes Fahrzeug vor uns – yes ready, das sind Manfred und Rita, what a coincidence. We stop for a moment, besprechen uns und gleich darauf fahren wir in Kolonne zu den Hot Springs hinter El Sargento. Ein Stellplatz ganz nach unserem Geschmack: lots of space, direkt am Wasser, keine weitern Camper – einziger Nachteil: hier gibt es einen Steinstrand, man kommt nur mit viel Balanceakt ins Wasser. Mittags laufe ich den Kilometer zurück zu den Hot Springs direkt im Meer. Frodo zieht zum Wasser (er will sich wohl abkühlen), tritt mit einer Pfote hinein und hüpft jaulend sofort wieder heraus – das Wasser ist hier tatsächlich kochend heiß. Man muss sich sein Becken mit Steinen selbst herrichten, Wasser vom Meer dazuschaufeln und schon hat man eine perfekte Badewanne – genial. Viele Mexikaner machen einen Sonntagsausflug hierher und verbringen den ganzen Tag in dem herrlich waren Wasser.
Auf dem Rückweg zur Henriette treffe ich auf einen Truck aus der Schweiz: Zsolt und Emese mit ihrem Bodyduck. Klar wird ein kleines Schwätzchen gehalten, es ist immer schön, sich mit Gleichgesinnten auszutauschen. Abends gibt es traditionsgemäß ein Lagerfeuer, der Holzstapel lag schon neben dem Platz bereit.
Zu meiner großen Freude entdecke ich bei der Morgenrunde ein Hinweisschild auf einen kleinen Wanderweg durch den Kaktuswald, das findet man hier ganz selten. Die Kakteen fangen langsam an zu blühen, die Farbtupfer sehen so hübsch aus. Leider schieben sich später immer mehr Wolken vor die Sonne, der Wind bläst auch hier heftig. Gute Bedingungen, to run the washing machine, in kurzer Zeit ist alles trocken und kann zurück in den Schrank. Gegen Mittag laufen wir zusammen am Strand entlang zu den netten Pools. Es ist nicht allzu viel los heute (ist ja auch Montag), so findet sich gleich ein geeignetes Becken. Hans-Peter ist voll beschäftigt, stapelt Steine, baut die Mauern, schaufelt den Sand und verteilt das heiße Wasser – bis unser Pool perfekt ist. Nach einer Stunde einweichen sind wir sauber, müde und relaxt. Zurück laufen wir den Fahrweg, so haben die Jungs gleich noch ihre Gassirunde erledigt. Abends ist es zu windig für ein Feuerchen, außerdem schwächelt Manfred ein wenig, das letzte Glas Tequila war wohl schlecht ??
Mittlerweile haben wir die Terminbestätigung von unserer MAN-Werkstatt in Culiacan erhalten, Dienstag in einer Woche sind wir eingeplant. Das Online-Buchen der Fähre habe ich nicht geschafft, so we decide, am nächsten Tag an den Fährhafen zu fahren und unsere Buchung zu reservieren. Noch einmal müssen wir uns von Manfred und Rita verabschieden, We hope, dass wir uns irgendwann wieder treffen können. Zurück in La Paz steuern wir erst noch eine Autowäsche an, die große Fahrzeuge waschen kann, eine Empfehlung von Ozy. Erst einmal fahren wir 2-mal dran vorbei, da man den kleinen Stand gar nicht erkennt. Drei Männer stehen bereit mit einem kleinen Hochdruckreiniger, Eimern und Sprühflaschen. Nach einem kurzen spanisch, englisch- deutschen Kauderwelsch sind wir handelseinig: sie putzen unsere Henriette gerne, dauert wohl 2 – 3 hours. Okay, kein Problem, in der Zwischenzeit drehen wir eine Runde mit den Hunden. Wir laufen durch ein typisches Wohngebiet mit jeder Menge kleiner Lädchen, die frisch gebackene Tacos, Empanadas, fruit, Gemüse und den Fischfang des Tages anbieten. Dazwischen gibt es kleine Eisenwarengeschäfte, Auto repair shops, Friseure, Waschsalons, kleine, bunte Reihenhäuser, Garagen, Autowäscher, jede Menge Strassenhunde und an jeder Ecke der obligatorische Oxxo-Laden. Es ist sehr heiß heute, so laufen wir zurück, steuern den kleinen Taco-Laden neben unserer Henriette an. Das Bestellen erweist sich als schwierig, manche Speisen gibt es wohl erst am Abend. So begnügen wir uns mit einem Käse- und Fleischtaco, dazu etwas Soße, Guacamole, Salat und eiskalter Coca-Cola. Von weitem sehen wir Henriette glänzen – die Jungs haben sie kräftig poliert. Besonders die Reifen und die Staukisten stechen hervor – sie wurden wohl mit schwarzer Schuhcreme behandelt.
Kurz legen wir einen Stop beim Walmart ein, dann steuern wir zum Fährhafen. Der freundliche Einweiser will uns gleich auf die Fähre winken, wir versuchen mit Händen und Füßen zu erklären, dass wir erst einmal eine Reservierung machen möchten. Hans-Peter kann Henriette schließlich in einer Ecke abstellen, ich mache mich auf die Suche nach dem TMC-Schalter. In dem ersten Gebäude finde ich ein Büro – allerdings alles abgeschlossen, kein Mensch weit und breit. Im zweiten Gebäude gibt es wieder einen verschlossenen Schalter, nur das Büro von Baja Ferries ist besetzt. Die Dame am Schalter klärt mich auf, das Büro von TMC ist hinter 20 LKW´s versteckt. Tatsächlich ist dieses Büro geöffnet, 3 sehr beschäftigt wirkende Mitarbeiterinnen ignorieren mich erst einmal vollkommen. To 5 Minuten der erste Blickkontakt – what I want ?? Mit Hilfe des Google-Übersetzers frage ich nach einer Fähre für den Freitag – no, da gibt es keinen Platz ? Und morgen, oder am Donnerstag – no, da geht es auch nicht ! Nur am Sonntag ist eine Passage möglich entweder um 13.00 or 21.00 clock. Kurze Rücksprache mit meinem Göttergatten: wir nehmen die Fähre um 13.00 clock. Zurück am Schalter gebe ich der Dame Bescheid, sie sagt prima, dann wären wir jetzt gebucht für den Sonntag ?? Ich bekomme weder eine Bestätigung noch sonst irgendetwas – we are excited, ob das tatsächlich am Sonntag klappt ????? Notfalls müssen wir halt den Werkstatttermin verschieben 🙂
Ein paar Kilometer weiter kommen wir spät nachmittags an den Strand von Tecolote, ein recht bekanntes, sehr hübsches Fleckchen mit einigen Campern. Wir finden ein nettes Eckchen, um uns niederzulassen und verbringen eine super ruhige Nacht.
Am nächsten Morgen schaue ich bei der Gassirunde nach einem Platz, der ein bisschen weiter entfernt ist – und finde eine perfekte Stelle. Später zeige ich Hans-Peter meinen Traumplatz, wir beschließen, Henriette dorthin umzuparken. Said, did, alles wird fest verstaut, wir tuckern den Kilometer auf der Sandpiste weiter. Um die Kurve herum trauen wir unseren Augen nicht – jetzt steht doch tatsächlich ein anderer Camper auf unserem Plätzchen, das gibt es doch gar nicht. Frustriert fahren wir die Piste weiter, kommen bei einem Mexikaner vorbei, der uns gleich anhält und 200 Pesos fordert ?? Entnervt geben wir ihm schließlich 100 Pesos. Tatsächlich findet sich hier auch ein richtig schöner Strandplatz – allerdings sitzen da 2 große Hunde, das dazugehörige Frauchen schwimmt gerade im Meer – also auch keine Option. Noch 2 Windungen weiter findet finden wir endlich unser Plätzchen: ziemlich einsam, einfacher Zugang zum Wasser – echt schön. Dummerweise ist der ganze Untergrund voll mit Goatheads – aber das ist uns jetzt einfach egal !
Thursday, the 30.03. (Geburtstag von meiner Mama, sie wäre nun schon 103): erst mal ist Hausarbeit angesagt, Hans-Peter macht unsere Toilette sauber. Ist wirklich notwendig, das letzte mal hatten wir das in Texas gemacht. Nachmittags versuche ich, einen Reim für das Geburtstagslied für Gisela zu dichten – das erweist sich als schwieriger als gedacht. Vielleicht liegt es auch an der vielen Sonne, da sind die Nervenbahnen wohl auch am chillen ?? Abends gibt es noch einen kleine Wanderung durch die Dünen, allerdings mit unzähligen Stops, da die Jungs sich immer wieder die kleinen Dornen einfangen und stehenbleiben.
Der nächste Tag beginnt sehr stürmisch, Hans-Peter parkt Henriette nochmals um, damit wir ein bisschen Windschutz bekommen. Das hilft, so können wir gemütlich draussen sitzen. Nachmittags gesellt sich doch tatsächlich ein Auto direkt neben uns – obwohl ringsum Platz ohne Ende ist – das kann man irgendwie nicht verstehen. Die jungen Leute sind super freundlich, finden Henriette und die Jungs ganz toll und schiessen gleich ein paar Fotos von uns. Gegen Abend laufen wir noch eine große Runde, auf den letzten Metern scheucht Frodo noch ein Häschen auf und Quappo ist natürlich mal wieder nicht zu halten. Trotz einem neuen Rekord im 100 m Sprint hat er einfach keine Chance den Langohr zu erwischen (Thank God). Erschöpft legen sich die Jungs gleich aufs Sofa und schlafen wir die Murmeltiere.
Samstags bläst der Wind wieder sehr heftig, im Windschatten von Henriette lässt es sich gut aushalten. Mittags verirrt sich wieder ein PKW zu uns – er bleibt 10 Meter vor uns im Sand stecken und Hans-Peter hilft ihm mit einer Schaufel und Sandblechen aus der Patsche. Der Fahrer und seine Partnerin sind total glücklich, dass der Nachmittag gerettet ist und bedanken sich überschwenglich. Am späten Nachmittag fahren wir zurück zum Strand von Tecolote, hier ist richtig etwas los, viele Leute verbringen das Wochenende hier am Strand. Laute mexikanische Musik ertönt aus den Fahrzeugen, die Stimmung ist ausgelassen und fröhlich. Der Wind hat nachgelassen, so können wir auch nochmals ein letztes Mal auf der Baja im Meer schwimmen. Später treffen wir beim Spaziergang einen lustigen Engländer mit seinem Baja-Strassenhund – our 2 finden den Kumpel super spannend, wollen ihn gar nicht gehen lassen.
Sonntags wird es spannend – wir wollen heute mit der Fähre nach Topolobampo übersetzen, Let's see, ob das klappt. Against 10.00 Uhr sind wir am Terminal, erst einmal wird das Auto gründlich inspiziert(der Beamte öffnet alle Schranktüren und Schubladen) und der TIP überprüft. To 5 Minuten gleich der Schock: das TIP wäre nicht gültig, wir könnten nicht auf die Fähre ?? Wir sind verwirrt, können uns das nicht erklären, diskutieren mit dem mexikanischen Beamten. Irgendwann dämmert es uns: beim Ausstellen des TIP an der Grenze hatten wir ein paar Probleme und wurden an den Schalter zurückgerufen. Wir hatten dummerweise das erste TIP kopiert, das korrigierte 2. TIP aber nicht mehr. There, und jetzt hatten wir dem Beamten die Kopie von dem entwerteten TIP gegeben, clear, das das nicht funktioniert !! Also, gleich das Original herausgeholt, gescannt – und schon durften wir weiterfahren. An der nächsten Station wurde Henriette vermessen und gewogen – überraschenderweise hat unser Mädchen gar nicht zugenommen und unter 10 Tonnen auf die Waage gebracht. So, nun nur noch zum Ticketschalter zu den gelangweilten Damen – wieder schaut keine von ihrem Monitor auf, alle sind äußert beschäftigt, keine nimmt mich wahr. Irgendwann schaut eine der Damen gnädigerweise doch mal hoch und nimmt mir meinen Zettel vom Wiegen ab. Ob ich eine Reservierung hätte ?? And, habe ich – sie kann leider nichts finden ??? Die Mitarbeiterin, bei der ich am Dienstag den Termin vereinbart hatte, schaltet sich liebenswürdigerweise ein und erklärt ihrer Kollegin, dass es eine Reservierung geben müsste.
Gut eine halbe Stunde später bin ich stolzer Besitzer von 2 Tickets, Entspannung ist angesagt. Nun nur noch die Fähre finden, dann kann es losgehen. Ganz so einfach ist es dann doch nicht, der Beifahrer darf nämlich nicht im Auto bleiben, aber keiner kann mir sagen, wo genau ich denn durchlaufen soll. Eine junge Amerikanerin steht ebenso verloren vor den Gebäuden, sie hat das gleiche Problem. Irgendwann stehen wir in der richtigen Halle, werden von einem Beamten weitergewunken und dürfen auf die Fähre. Hans-Peter hat Henriette zwischenzeitlich schon aufs Deck gebracht und super eingeparkt, zwischen den LKW’s gibt es kaum ein paar Zentimeter Platz – incomprehensible, wie exakt die riesigen Laster hier aufgereiht werden. Da es sich hier um eine Cargo-Fähre handelt, stehen hier fast nur riesige Trucks und Anhänger. Zwischenzeitlich wurde auf dem Deck ein großer Grill ausgepackt, zwei Mexikaner sind voll beschäftigt, das Fleisch darauf aufzutürmen und zu braten, dazu werden Tacos, Salat, Guacamole und Mole serviert.
The delicious barbecue smell attracts all drivers and passengers, we also serve ourselves at the buffet, the meal is included in the ticket price. We can stay in the car while driving, all four of them soon close their eyes at the gentle swaying of the waves. Against 21.00 We finally arrive on the mainland, All trucks are quickly shunted out and we have solid ground under our feet again. A few kilometers further there is a large one behind a gas station, very littered parking lot, no matter, perfect for one night.
