01.12.2025: At sunset we reach the port of Tanger Med. After customs control, which takes quite a long time, we stop in the parking lot in the harbor and spend our first night on the new continent. There is still an incredible amount going on here, the SIM card sellers outdo each other with the money changers – you immediately feel like you are in another world. Anyway, we're pretty tired, it was quite an exciting day !! We get the first dirhams at the ATM, then we go to sleep.
The next day the world looks completely different – it's really quiet in the harbor. First of all, I'll get a SIM card for Morocco (and I'm almost gone 100 Dirham poorer for the tip :) – We first have to get used to the new customs here), Then we have breakfast and we're on our way. The first refueling works after a few difficulties !! Now find a quiet parking space and get there. We find a place quite far away, can install our Starlink antenna and write a bit of a website, Plan your route and relax. It rains at midday – We stay comfortably within our four walls.
In the morning we are woken up by the sun's rays – Everything looks so much nicer there !!! Quappo quickly explores the surroundings, sniffs out lots of new smells, marks his new territory. In the afternoon we continue to the coast, this time we're going to the Mediterranean.
In Martil we park in a parking lot right on the beach, already standing here 4 more mobiles. The parking attendant comes to us immediately and wants the overnight fee 30 Dirham (3,- €) collect. Of course it doesn't work, because he is ours 100 Dirham note cannot be exchanged – it's like everywhere else !!! So we first explore the town – quite a nice vacation spot for the locals. The main attraction is the long sandy beach and the waterfront promenade with its cafes, Bars, and restaurants. New apartment buildings were being built everywhere, There's definitely all hell going on here during the season. A few steps further into town, We are already in the middle of life: There are market stalls everywhere here, You can buy everything you can imagine. The noise level and the hustle and bustle are high, Cats sit in every corner (Quappo is irritated), Everything is still a bit strange for us. First we look for an ATM, to increase our cash reserves. There are lots of them too, However, they are already standing 10 People in line in front of it. A few blocks further we find a quieter machine and try our luck. understood, now we know too, why no one is queuing here – The machine is probably empty right now. We walk through the hustle and bustle for a bit, buy bread in a bakery and 2 Snail noodles for a total 90 Cent, and accidentally discover another ATM. This one is ready, us 2.000 Spit out dirhams – very good. Now we can pay for the parking space and get used to the new currency. In the evening it is incredibly loud for a long time, Football is being played, Listened to music, People sit on the beach in the dark and talk loudly to each other.
Thursday, the 04.12.: In the morning it is actually very quiet here, Hardly anyone is out and about, the city is waking up very slowly. Quappo enjoys the large sandy beach – you just have to be careful here, there are leftovers of food lying around everywhere. We quickly packed everything up and drove around 10 Kilometers further to Teotuan. The city has around 500.000 resident, So it's quite big, for us the first big city in Morocco, that we visit. Our navigation system is playing jokes today and takes us right into the middle of the old town ?? Many streets are closed to trucks, So let's go in circles first. Then we should turn right – that looks strange. No 100 Meters further on there is a narrow passage – suitable for donkey carts but not for Henriettes. A few men show us, that we can't go any further, A very clever Moroccan senses his opportunity, means, we should drive back a bit, he stops traffic, directs everything past us and hey presto, We are already standing on the side of the road – he takes good care of our car. Clear, He also wants a tip for his service, that was to be expected. All the same, First of all we are doing well, it is only a few meters to the medina. We know the old districts of Marrakech and Fez – Tetouan seems even bigger to us, less touristy and absolutely fascinating. by the way: The Medina is of course also a UNESCO World Heritage Site !! Just look at the photos:
Freshly baked bread from the wood oven, Washing machines, old shoes, Lace fabrics, Sheer tights, Nut biscuits with sesame, fresh vegetables, live chickens, Sewing machines, Wooden beds, bottles, The cork, Plastic toys, Pottery, Straw hats and bread again, Barbershop, chopped off beef feet, Lentils and peas, Dates and figs, bread again, Tempos and children's diapers – individually!, used clothes, rusty ones, crooked nails, Light bulbs, ancient cell phones, Soup vegetables, used tennis balls, bread again, a piece of pumpkin, lots of indefinable things…………. and hundreds of cats in between – you can't even describe it.
At some point we find our way through a bab (Stadttor) back into the “normal world”. We can even find our Henriette again, it is still well guarded on the shoulder. For today our heads and Quappo's nose are full – Hans-Peter steers Henriette out of the crowd very well. Everything in us screams for a quiet place, We find this on a small beach in Aouchtame Bni Said. At second glance we see, that we are not the only ones here – There is already a nice pack of dogs waiting for us 6 half-strong siblings, who all immediately come to us in a very friendly and curious manner. Quappo already has panic in his eyes – Mom won't want to adopt one of the little ones ???? no, We'd better leave that alone, but the dog animals get some of Quappo's dog food. Towards the evening we still get human visitors: a young police officer knocks and says, We can't stand here – we should go a few meters further on the “official” Parking lot drive. He quickly takes photos of our passports, We park briefly, Everything is already in order. So far the Moroccans are, that we met, really very friendly,
05.12.2025: the sun rises directly outside our window (it's nice 8.15 clock), the beach is on the doorstep – that just screams for a morning refreshment. Also, I quickly put on my bikini and got into the water – it's wonderful. A few bored fishermen stand around nearby, but she doesn't seem to care. Just my four-legged ones, new friends are all here, to greet me. I have to be careful, that my shoes and towel don't get stolen by the little rascals. We leave a portion of dog food for the team, They pounce on the delicious breakfast.
We can easily fill up our water tank on the go – There is a fountain right on the street 3 Faucets and good water pressure and no street vendors !! The serpentine road leads us further through a beautiful valley, You feel a bit like you're in Austria. Today we want to go on a hike to the Akchoud waterfalls, There are guarded parking spaces for 5 at an interesting restaurant,– €/night.
According to my research you can do the hike from here – But it turns out, that the actual parking lot for the waterfalls is still there 3 kilometers away. Also, poorly prepared !! Unfortunately we walk this way on the road and we already need it 45 minutes, until we arrive at the starting point. There is a lot of activity here, Restaurants, Souvenir stands and travel guides offer us their offers. It's like in Mexico – One pub after another is lined up along the small stream, all equipped with colorful plastic chairs and fire pits for tagines. On the way we meet a German couple, who told us, that the path was almost impossible to walk, because the river would have too much water and you would need water shoes. We still try our luck and walk a beautiful route along the bank, lined with small waterfalls, Swimming pools and beautiful stone formations. After half the route we turn back, We still have to go back to our parking space. We have just put our feet up on the sofa, there's a knock on our door: Achim and Brigitte are also traveling with a MAN and are behind us. We arrange to meet later for a little chat. But first we definitely have to call our Luki – It's our youngest's birthday today, it's becoming unbelievable 32 year old !! We spend a very nice time with the neighbors, entertaining evening, Only after midnight do we fall into our mattresses.
Because it is so beautiful here, there is a change of plans the next morning: We want to take a second hike to the God's Bridge, This time we drive with Henriette to the hiking parking lot. The route turns out to be more difficult than expected – The lower path through the riverbed is only possible barefoot or with water shoes, because it rained so much. So we look for the way, which leads around above. We can't find the right starting point, we scramble up a really very steep slope on all fours. Luckily we hit the right path further up and, sweating, reached the huge natural rock bridge. The way back is very easy !! We've done enough for today, We drive a few kilometers further to a nice place, sit in the sun and drink our tea obediently. Every now and then a local comes by, directs his goats past us or offers us hashish to buy- everything relaxed.
07.12. In the morning we are visited by goats, sheep and little shepherd boys, They all walk around our car curiously. At some point they trot away again, Henriette probably wasn't that interesting after all. We make our way to the town of Chefchaouen – also called the blue city, a special highlight of Morocco. Every alley, Every staircase and almost every house here is painted blue ! The blue color of the houses, that's what the locals say, is supposed to protect against evil eyes. The name Chefchaouen means “two horns” and is on the two mountain peaks, of the Rif Mountains, which can be seen from the city. The place nestles beautifully on the hillside, Even from a distance you can see the blue color standing out. We leave Henriette in the parking lot, it's just a few steps up, then we are in the medina. Everything is really very pretty, a riot of colors for our eyes.
The atmosphere is much more relaxed and calm than in Tetouan, You feel really comfortable here and can see the beautiful carpets, Look at fabrics and ceramics with peace of mind. The dealers are unobtrusive, no rush, no screaming, barely annoying Mopeds. Only Quappo has many exciting encounters again – The cat density is also very high here. After good 2 We discovered most of the alleys in a few hours, it's going back home. We still have to buy some groceries. There is a small BIM supermarket. Fruit and vegetables are available from the dealer next door, so we are self-sufficient for the next few days. Back at the parking spot, a few Moroccans are already waiting for us, They really want to sell us hashish – We expressly and gratefully decline.
At some point during the night, the dealers give up and disappear into nowhere. The next day we have a longer journey ahead of us- it's close 200 kilometers to the east. On the RN2 (a busy highway) we are only making slow progress: Potholes, Ruts and broken side strips alternate, plus a lot of traffic. Today is market day in Bab-Berred, it's fun, to watch the goings-on from above.
After about 150 Kilometers later we switch to the RN8 towards the sea – and what a miracle – the street is totally new, perfectly built and little traffic !! We park in the parking lot on the beach at Cala Iris, only a few anglers are working here. In summer this is a hotspot for Moroccans, There is no one here in the off-season. Unfortunately, this is also where it lies – like on the whole route – an awful lot of rubbish around, you just can't understand it.
09.12. Clear, the sea is calling, I have to go swimming first. The water is wonderful, mine 2 Men watch me blankly from the window. Later we take a quick look at a place to stay overnight in the neighboring village, but decide, that the old place is better. The water tank is filled up, the washing machine is being used for the first time. Our table is also being set up for the first time on this trip!! The day passes with major cleaning, some improvement work, Reading and walking.
10.12. I take the chance for a morning bath one last time – it will take a few weeks, until we get to the sea again. Later we leave this pretty place, Leave the big city of Al-Hoceima on the left and come onto the RN2. We stop on the way, to reload water (the washing machine used so much). We can stock up on fruit and vegetables at a small stand. But the highlight is a small bakery on the side of the road, Here we get really delicious food, oven-warm bread. The smell fills the whole car, We'll eat a big piece straight away – hmmmmm !! Contrary to our expectations, the road is perfect – Widely developed and in immaculate condition. The landscape keeps changing, Ocher-colored mountains alternate with green olive groves, brown earth and granite-colored rock formations. There is a beautiful parking lot in the middle of this mountain world 360 Degree of all-round visibility. A car drives past us every hour, The drivers greet us and wave friendly.
11.12. the usual morning routine: Breakfast, Dog round and packing up, then we continue south. Soon we reach Taza, a larger city with 160.000 residents, an old fortress wall and a long history. There is a market here today and the whole city is on its feet. Next to the large market area there is a parking lot for the donkeys, who are patiently waiting for their masters here – other countries, andere Sitten.
A few kilometers behind Taza the road turns towards Tazekka NP, Now we are almost alone. In Bab Boudir, a mini-town with 10 Houses, a hotel and a pub, we take a short hike to the summit of Mount Bouhadli. Our guide is a small one, black bitch, She probably took us into her heart straight away. She runs with us the whole time and doesn't take her eyes off my treat bag. by the way – she also watched our car all night 🙂
Lt. The hiking app Komoot lists this route as easy – We are all the more surprised, that in the end we have to really scramble. A few photos at the summit cross, then it goes steeply downhill again. Here in the national park you are not allowed to stand freely, but there is the possibility, to stay overnight in a hotel parking lot for free. A nice man (we estimate, it was the mayor) photographs our passports and license plate – so everything is in order.
It's getting pretty cold at night now (4 City), getting up from the warm bed is difficult. As a precaution, we put on an extra layer. The second hike is on the program: knapp 14 Kilometers to the Ibel Tazekka !! It quickly becomes too warm for us in all the clothes, They can now go hiking in the backpack. We have a panoramic view along the entire route, it's awesome. In the distance the snow-capped peaks of the above glitter 3.000 m high mountains of the Middle Atlas, Wide valleys stretch out in front of us, Cork oak forests and green meadows. Quappo even finds a patch of snow and is happy. Shortly before the goal we see 3 young men standing in a meadow, one is coming towards us. He explains to us, that a few meters further in the forest there was a group of around 50 Berberaff, Macaques, are at home. We can see and hear some specimens in the distance. The Barbary macaque lives in social groups and is adaptable to cold conditions, snowy conditions. It is an endangered species, mainly due to habitat loss and wild capture, is on the Red List of Endangered Species. The ranger asks us, not to run any further, since the monkeys see the dog as a natural enemy and are therefore disturbed. Okay, We can understand that, turn around and leave the animals alone. A few clouds have now moved in front of the sun, it is immediately very cool. Also, Jackets out of the backpack again. To 3 We are back from our tour in hours, drive back to the hotel parking lot and sort through the many photos from today !!
13.12. It's pretty frosty this morning – also, nothing but further south !! We leave the national park on route RP5411, a small provincial road through the mountains. The route turns out to be beautiful, the landscape changes every few kilometers. In Ahermoumou, a small town, let's stop for gas. We are in an olive stronghold here, We see women everywhere, harvest the olives. They are brought in sacks on donkeys to the nearest press. Everything is handmade, you now learn to appreciate the value of the product even more.
The next route we also drive on a small one, single-lane streets through no man's land. Luckily there is hardly any oncoming traffic (except a few sheep and donkeys). After around 180 We look for a place to spend the night for kilometers. Google shows me the next village “Hot Springs” an , we want to look at that. There are actually pools with warm water here, which are used by the locals as a bathing establishment. A friendly man comes by and says, we shouldn't spend the night here, because people want to bathe here undisturbed. We understand that, 5 Kilometers behind the town we find an undisturbed place.
14.12. At night the raindrops drum against the roof and violent gusts of wind shake our Henriette. After the usual morning routine (Stand up, Have breakfast, Dog round) let's fight against it 11.00 clock on the way. A little detour from 6 Kilometers takes us to Imouzzer Marmoucha, a tip from my travel guide. We are fascinated from afar: Steep cliffs overlook a deep gorge, the individual districts of the city (ca. 1.750 m) are located in a wide arc high above the gorge – We don't want to live there for a lot of money ?!! The rock looks like this, as if it would collapse in the next heavy rain. We park Henriette in a small parking lot , Steep stone steps run down to a viewing terrace. From here you can see a beautiful waterfall, the one in the deep, fertile valley rustles.
Henriette continues to roll along small asphalt roads, Slopes and large main roads. The landscape feels like it changes around every bend: we pass through fruity olive groves, then again completely barren stone area, always a few green spots, later only sand and stone.
And we see the first camels in Morocco !! Behind Missouri we already feel like we are in the desert, There is little agriculture left here. In the next place, Midelt (1.488 m), we turn into a dead end and park Henriette in a former mining region.
15.12. armed with anorak, Today we start the dog morning round with a wool hat and gloves :)! Warmed up after the first coffee, we head to the abandoned mining town of Ahouli. At first very relaxed, then the street becomes more and more interesting, becomes rocky, engen, single-lane gorge. Shortly afterwards we stand in front of an adventurous wooden plank bridge – she should hold for us, the sign says: passable until 15 tons. Everything works, we get further into the gorge. The ground is quite muddy, it seems to have rained a lot. A few meters further we are in the middle of the small village, up to 2 Men, sell the stones, it is extinct.
There is nice graffiti on the walls – lots of nice beetles! The French once built extensive mining facilities, lead was found, Silber, Barite and copper. After independence, the facilities were still used until 1984 continued by the Moroccans, After that everything was stopped, dismantling was no longer worthwhile. Henriette turns around and heads back.
In Midelt, a place with around 44.500 Residents, we head for the Moroccan supermarket Marjane. There is a yawning emptiness in the store, Apparently people here prefer to buy their things at the market. The range is a little different than ours, I have to find my way first. Made, Food restocked, we can continue. The road leads over a pass of 1.907 m, Everything is wonderfully snowy up here. We drive a little further down to spend the night and hope, that it won't be too cold tonight. We received a weather warning from friends: Snowfall in the High Atlas – We are right in the middle of it all !!
16.12. It actually snowed a bit at night, but the snow didn't stay. The ground is really muddy!! Hans-Peter wants to repair our wobbly table, dismantled everything and now we would need a welder ?? Gut, We drive to the next larger town, Er-Rich. On the way there we are initially in chaos on the main road – the pass was apparently closed due to snowfall, A huge queue of cars has formed. The vehicles are standing all over the place, many turn around and drive back. Luckily we crossed the pass yesterday.
When we arrive in Er-Rich we ask around at the workshops on the side of the road. After being redirected five times, we actually find a welder in a small garage, who takes care of our table. School is just out, So we are the highlight of the day for the village children. Charmed, They stand in front of our car for half an hour, waving and laughing. 8,– We pay € for the work, now nothing wobbles anymore. The road RR704 leads further into the mountains, a local said, we could drive them well. At first the sun even shines, but the higher we go, the more uncomfortable it becomes. It starts to snow heavily again and it gets a degree colder every few meters. We park on solid ground, First turn on the heating. and get the warmer blanket from the basement. In the evening around 20.00 We see a flashing vehicle next to us – the police come knocking and want to take photos of our passports. The men are very nice, speak English and wish us a good night.
17.12. Sunshine and blue sky – The day couldn't start better. Hans-Peter carefully guides our girl on the narrow mountain road RN704. The path is partially flooded, then only half as wide due to stone demolition. On the way we see some large construction machines, you try hard, to repair the road again and again. We slowly climb higher and higher and everything around us becomes whiter and whiter. A fantastic environment – everything is covered in deep snow – Winterwunderland !! After around 50 In the afternoon we reach the small mountain village of Outerbat. There is a lot of activity here: The men sit together in front of the houses and drink tea, the children are playing happily in the snow, the women carry wood to the houses, There are trucks in between, that need to be unloaded. We are stopped by a local: we couldn't go any further from here, as the road a few kilometers further was closed due to snowfall. Of course there are no parking spaces anywhere, since everything is covered with a meter of snow. So we just stay in the middle of town on the main street – and are a sensation. All the children come over and look at us curiously. When we get out with Quappo, we feel like aliens. A short time later we are known throughout the town, the people are really friendly and warm, we feel super comfortable. We can buy fruit and bread in the small supermarket, everyone asks, whether we needed anything else.
At night the thermometer shows -5 City, we can imagine, that people are not very warm in their houses. School is also canceled because of the cold – the school building cannot be heated. Unimaginable for us: such a humble one, barren and hard life.
18.12. white mountains and blue sky – why didn't we pack skis? ?? After a lovely winter walk we discuss things together, what we should do now. Lt. The N12 is still closed to the internet – but for how long ?? A local calls around for us and finds out, that the clean-up work only started this afternoon – no one can say, when the road will be passable again. We decide with a heavy heart, to drive back. Everyone waves to us, you get ahead of yourself, as if you had been here forever. To 3 We are back at our old parking spot for hours – Despite everything, it was a really great experience.
19.12. Now we continue back to Er-Rich, When the weather is good we see much more of the beautiful landscape. Behind the town we now take the large road RN13 towards Er-Rachida through the gorge of the Ziz river.
It feels like driving on the highway – this way we can move forward quickly. A brief moment of shock: a sign on the side of the road: a tunnel with a maximum height of 3.5 m comes before us – we are 3.95 m hoch ?? Turning around is not an option, We couldn't make it over the mountains because of snow. On the opposite side there are large coaches coming toward us, They must have driven through the tunnel too. So let's drive on and look at the obstacle on site. And we can already see the tunnel in front of us: we approach it carefully, drive nice and slowly in the middle and make it through without a scratch – tel, Lucky.
The surrounding landscape is once again breathtaking, a great gorge with reddish-brown rock walls. We always feel transported to Utah's national parks. We drive through Er-Rachida, are surprised by this very modern one, clean and tidy city. We continue on to a boring one, crisp Steppe, which is repeatedly interrupted by small palm oases. In the small town of Gawaz we turn off the main road and find 10 Kilometers further north a nice one, very quiet parking space. Now first have a coffee, then a little dog walk, planning your onward journey, Cook, play and sleep.
20.12. The sun's rays wake us up again, This makes getting up fun. by the way, the sun is just setting here 8.33 clock on, That's how we usually find ourselves 1030 Don't watch the tires. We continue on the RN10 to Tinghir. The route is quite monotonous, but the towns are very nice. On the way we see a few camels, always date palm oases and in the background the snow-covered mountains of the High Atlas.
When we arrive in Tingher we stock up on cash, Fill up Henriette's tank and buy some fruit, vegetables and bread. Shortly behind the city we park our car in a restaurant parking lot, to take a short hike through the palm grove from here – one of the largest and most beautiful oases in Morocco. First we roam abandoned ones, collapsed mud houses, then we continue through the palm garden. Many people are at work: it is plowed (with donkeys), chopped and harvested.
After the round there is coffee in the restaurant, then we'll drive 5 Kilometers further and you find yourself in the middle of the Todra Gorge. The canyon is very impressive, the rock walls rise round 300 m in height, the passage only measures approximately 10 Meter. Tomorrow we want to go for a hike in the gorge – if the weather cooperates.
21.12. The night was horrible, we hardly slept: Dogs barked all night long, It echoed eerily through the gorge. But everything looks good in the morning: the sun is shining, perfect hiking weather. We quickly find the start of our tour and it's a steep climb. We walk in the shadows, it's lousy cold. But the climb makes you warm, In addition, the sun rises higher and higher and soon the gloves can , Hat and jacket in the backpack. The landscape is beautiful, We always have to stop and marvel. In fact, we still meet Berbers up here, who run down the mountain with their donkey. When we get to the top we can't believe our eyes: A family with small children and a few goats actually lives here in a rock cave. How can you live here? ?? There is absolutely nothing here, neither water nor any plant, that grows here, Plus it's really cold in winter (There is also no wood for a fire) – unimaginable. As we continue along the way we keep seeing small settlements, Children run up and wave. I still have a packet of cookies with me, I like to give these to the little ones.
To 3 We made it hours and are back at the parking lot. Now quickly distribute some dog food to the pack of dogs, then we move on. Always uphill, the landscape becomes white, Snow everywhere. Behind the village of Tamtetoucht we turn onto a connecting road to the Dades Gorge. The street is newly built, asphalted and in very good condition. Since it was already shortly before 17.00 Clock is, we turn into a small parking space and let the day end. We can't sleep at night again: it storms without end, Henriette wobbles endlessly – I'm thinking about it, whether such a gust of wind could knock us over ??
22.12. We stopped, the storm has calmed down a bit, So we continue on our route. To 10 Kilometers later a car comes towards us and signals us, that we couldn't continue – the snow would be too deep ?? Let's think for a moment, but then reason prevails and we turn around. In fact, the barrier is now closed, d.h. no car is allowed to drive here. All right then, Then we just have to drive back - that's a detour of around 100 Kilometers – no matter. In Tinghir we accidentally discovered a Carrefour supermarket, the opportunity is used to make a purchase. On the RN10 it goes easily towards Boumalne Dades. We turn off shortly before the town, There are huge areas everywhere here, where you can spend the night.
23.12. The weather is really kind to us, blue sky and sun wake us up. As we drive through Boumalne we see an Overlander parked in the parking lot – Let's stop there quickly. They are Bernd and Gaby, who also want to drive the Dades Gorge today. After a nice conversation we say goodbye, drive to the Affenfinger car park. From there we want to go on a short hike – However, this turns out to be a failure. Komoot lets us 3 Walk kilometers along the road, There is no way back along the river – We keep running back and forth. Annoyed, we reach our Henriette after a good hour.
Now we continue into the gorge, Not very exciting at first, But then the road becomes spectacular: It goes up the mountain in narrow serpentines, you can hardly look out the window, without making you feel queasy: the rock faces are steep 300 m in depth. After this breathtaking section it becomes gentler, until suddenly a bottleneck appears in front of us. I'm getting out, to look, whether the rocky ledges could be dangerous to us. A local calls out to me and says, we could drive through without any problem. All right then, We venture further and pass the rocks without any scratches. Fortunately, no one is coming, otherwise we would have really had a problem.
Because the landscape is stunningly beautiful, let's drive around 20 kilometers further. At some point we overtake Gaby and Bernd, they are just taking a coffee break. We end today's tour in a small parking space next to the road, sit in the sun and treat ourselves to a Moroccan beer. Less than half an hour later, our neighbors arrive: Bernd and Gaby join us, In the evening we sit comfortably together in our car with a mulled wine.
24.12. Christmas Eve !!! Dozens of greetings are sent in the morning, phone calls are made to home, the cell phone is running hot. Our neighbors have changed their plans and are heading back to the valley like us. The opportunity is seized, to film each other on the track – These are completely different recordings.
Back in Boumalne we follow the two of them to a small campsite. It's really nice here and so we all decide together, that it would be nice, to spend the evening together. Bernd bought meat from the local butcher, that's enough for too 4 persons.
In the meantime we are talking to the family at home on the phone and are happy, that everyone has a nice evening. And I even get a Christmas present: Franziska. Hannes and Karl are coming to visit us in Marrakech in a few days – such a nice surprise !!
Then the grill is unpacked, Table and chairs set up, Chopped lettuce, Boiled potatoes – and now we have a festive menu. After the delicious meal it gets a little cold, We're all warming up in our living room, a few bottles of red wine do the rest. It's a really nice one, turned into an unplanned Christmas Eve !!!
25.12 we all sleep late, It must have been late yesterday ?? Bernd does some small repair work, Hans-Peter helps him, Around lunchtime we say goodbye to the two of them (you never know, when to meet again) and continue on the RN10 – the street of the kasbahs. You can see these old ones really everywhere, Fortifications built from rammed earth. A large part has fallen apart, But there are also very well-preserved facilities. We look at the Kasbah Amridil, our friendly guide Mohamed explains a lot to us about the way of life, Construction and history of this facility. This Kasbah was originally built in 17. Century as Ksar (Dorf) founded, only acquired late 19. century in importance. A scholar from a distinguished family, Mohamed Nasiri, had the property expanded into a large mansion. The house was lived in by a large family of approx 80 persons! Their intricate mud brick construction with beautiful design made them famous, she was even like that on an earlier one 50 Dirham note is pictured and also in the film “Lawrence of Arabia” she played a role. The whole system is incredibly complex, You climb a lot of stairs and you have to be careful because of the height of the ceiling, so that you don't hit your head – without a guide I would be hopelessly lost. There are stables for livestock in the lower area, Kitchens and storage rooms. In the middle there is a small garden with a fountain – perfect for the summer heat. There are bedrooms on the second and third floors, a small mosque, rooms, to study the Koran and small kitchens for individual families. Mohamed also shows us many everyday objects such as olive presses, pots, Around, Schlösser, Carpets – a good insight into traditional life. After a good hour we are finished, look into the adjacent garden and drink tea in a small craft shop. Already full of many impressions, we look for a quiet place to spend the night at the reservoir “Barrage Al Mansour Ad Dahbi”.
26.12 the sun is shining, The lake is right in front of us – it's clear, You just have to go swimming before breakfast. After a short dip we are wide awake and fit :). The journey continues to Ouazarzate, a quite modern and surprisingly beautiful city. I've read up, that 1940 only 800 people have lived here, today they are over 60.000 – an impressive development. We also see the Noor solar power plant. It works by concentrating light from the sun, which heats salt or oil. This drives steam turbines, that generate electricity. Thermal storage is crucial, which stores the heat, to produce electricity even after sunset or in bad weather.
Ouarzazate also has Atlas Studios, also called the Hollywood of Africa, one of the largest film studios in the world. For 8,– € entrance fee you can visit the film locations of such famous films as Ben Hur, Mission Cleopatra, Bundle, Star Wars, Babel, Lawrence of Arabia, Visit Games of Thrones and many others. We are allowed to move freely around the site and really feel like we have been transported to the different worlds. To 2 After a few hours we are back in reality and continue towards Marrakesh.
Things are looking up again, on the beautiful mountain road RP1506. To 10 Kilometers we drive through the tourist hotspot Ksar of Ben Haddou, an old ksar, that since 1987 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The place was around 12. Founded in the century, at that time should be around 1.000 people lived in this village. There are an incredible number of tourist buses crowding the main street, PKW´s, Camels, People, businesses, Restaurants – It's really too much for us, We just take a photo and move on. We will also come here again in January with our neighbors. At our last photo stop, Henriette no longer started, Only after a few nerve-racking minutes does the engine start again ?? Alright, we drive a little further, park somewhere in front of Teoulet on the shoulder.
27.12 our worst fears come true: Henriette no longer makes a sound in the morning. Hans-Peter tried, to tilt the driver's cab, to check the diesel filter – but that doesn't work either, because a screw breaks off. Our friend Bernd offers to come over – We think that's really great ! Shortly on the verge of a nervous breakdown, our girl was persuaded to start – and we can move on. On the way it starts to rain, that doesn't necessarily improve our mood ?? I write to Nadja during the journey, our Moroccan friend from Erfelden. Her brother is currently in Marrakesh and could help us find a workshop. We gratefully accept the offer and Fouad actually makes it, Find a MAN workshop. After an hour he tells us the location, We'll be on our way soon. There is still a mechanic on site for emergency service, he takes care of our problem. Unfortunately he can't solve it, it appears to be an electronic error. Of course nobody works here on Sundays, so we just have to wait, until the employees arrive on Monday. Okay, we stay in the workshop, surrender to our fate (what else should we do?) and just spend a day here in the yard. In the evening I don't feel like cooking and so I go for a walk around the neighborhood with Quappo.
This is really an experience: some of it is pitch black, There is water in the streets and on the sidewalks, an incredible number of people are out and about, Crossing the street is life-threatening, It's noisy, hectic and exciting. Quappo is just as tense and irritated, so many smells at once. At some point I stand in front of a street stall, where anything edible is sold – I have no idea what. The seller speaks a little English, tells me, That would be typically Moroccan and delicious and makes me happy 2 Rolls with contents ready: he mixes a potato with an egg, Smear cheese, oil, Mayonnaise, Olives and onions , plus a few spices on top. A roll costs the equivalent of 1,– € !! Back in the car we are thrilled, that tastes really delicious.
28.12. We explore the Marrakesh district on foot, where our workshop is located – approximately 6 Kilometers west of the medina, away from the tourist hustle and bustle. It's a colorful place here, loud bustle: countless small shops are lined up one after the other, everything is available to buy, what you can imagine. In fact, at some point we will also have a Decathlon deal – you immediately feel at home. In the evening I grab a few burgers and fries from a street snack bar, for just once 4,50 € (everything together) – we enjoy the things, watch another crime scene and go to sleep early.
Travel break !! 29.12. – 04.01.2026 the night was quite loud – Street noise, Dog's mouth, Muezzin and a very early active rooster !! On me, we get up early too, the mechanics wanted to come around half past eight. The electrician looks at our problem, replace a fuse and the girl starts up nicely. The spare part for tilting the housing must be ordered, so we arrange to meet, that we will come back in a week. We found out about Franzi, that they landed safely in Marrakesh and were already on their way to our holiday home. We quickly head to a Carrefour store, buy some supplies for the week and head out. In the afternoon we reach our new home in Ounara, Hannes, Franzi and Karl have already settled in. Unfortunately the entrance is so narrow, that we can't get in with Henriette, she has to stop on the way. You can't get to the house dry-footed, the path exists to 90% from puddles.
The cottage is quite nice, especially very large with 5 bedrooms and 3 baths, a large kitchen and a huge living room and a beautiful pool in the garden. The only downside: There is no heating and everything is very cold. Luckily we have a small heater on board, This will first warm up Karl's bedroom. In the evening we all snuggle up in thick blankets, cook something warm and play a few rounds of rummy cup.
The next day we explore the nice town of Essaouira together, go there to eat a delicious tagine and browse through the countless souvenir shops. In the evening we gamble again, Karli finds this very exciting and holds out for a long time. Hannes and I actually make it into the pool for a quick swim, the water is very refreshing. The weather is playing well, It's nice and warm during the day, so we can walk around the town in our t-shirts. Every day we drive to Essaouira in a small rental car, every day we discover something new. Karli does everything without any problems, The main thing is that he is in the carrier with mom or dad. He's always in a really good mood, a real sunshine.
Of course, we spend New Year's Eve with a classic game night and toast the New Year with a glass of champagne at midnight. The next day we visit a small shop, in which can see, how argan oil is made. This is really very complex and is made entirely by hand. The argan trees actually only grow here, nowhere else in the world. The fruits are picked, dried, removed from the shell and broken open (Women's work:)). The oil can only be pressed from the seed – For one liter of argan oil you need around 40 Kilogram of fruits, what the harvest of approximately 5 until 7 corresponds to trees. One can understand, that the product is expensive. The owner of the mill is super friendly, explains everything to us, offers us tea, Violation, Argan- and olive oil and almond butter. Of course we buy a few things from him.
Our restaurant experiences are very different: Once we eat the traditional tagine – not bad, but nothing special either. The next day we really hit the jackpot: We order almost everything in a small cafe, what's on the menu – everything is super delicious, real Moroccan cuisine, Beautifully prepared and the service is also super nice – and it ends up being even cheaper than the day before.
Unfortunately we will 2 Really disappointed days later: the food is mediocre, carelessly done, Nobody gets full and it's not cheap either. Going to the toilet finishes you off – injury, We would have gladly forgone this experience.
On Saturday we experience Essaouira in the rain – Every now and then a violent blow comes from above, everyone flees to cafes and restaurants. We're lucky this time, discover a mini cafe, where we can dry ourselves, the coffee is delicious and the pastries offered (especially the pistachio cookies) tastes heavenly – also, we are reconciled again. In the evening Hannes helps us with the visa application for Mauritania, Without his help we would certainly have been desperate and would have canceled the trip !!! The days go by far too quickly, It's already Sunday – and therefore departure day. It rained again for hours during the night, Puddles have formed in the bedrooms. You can't leave the house without rubber boots – really a very special experience. After the last breakfast together, Hannes breaks up, Franzi and Karl up, they now have for 2 Booked a riad in Marrakesh for a few days. We put our clutter back in the Henriette and also set off towards Marrakesh, The replacement part should be there on Monday. In the evening I make my way to the snack stand I trust and find myself in the middle of the huge hustle and bustle. Apparently the whole neighborhood is on the streets today: The men watch the Morocco vs. Tanzania soccer game in the cafes, the women are shopping, Children are running around and all the vendors have rolled out their stalls onto the street. I'm buying us shawarma today: like kebab, the dish consists of marinated, large slices of meat, which are placed in layers on a rotisserie and grilled. What's special here are the characteristic oriental spices – In any case, we like it very much.
Montag, the 05.01.26: We almost suspected it: the spare part is not there yet, They haven't even ordered it yet !! All the same, then we can seize the day, to throw ourselves into the fray of Marrakesh and Karl, Meeting Franzi and Hannes again. A short detour to the Carrefour, then you go straight into the middle. Unfortunately, the large parking lots are cordoned off with concrete bollards – we suspect because of the Africa Cup/Public Viewing ?? There is a smaller parking lot a few meters further, the parking attendant waves to us and signals, that we can drive in. Cashing in quickly, only then does he look, where we could even park. The place is jam-packed, actually only suitable for cars. A Peugeot pulls out of a parking space – We should go in there now ??? Are you crazy ?? Okay, it works – Hans-Peter keeps his nerve and squeezes Henriette right in between the small cars. Of course we can't get the door open, Quappo gets out of the cab – done.
In just 10 We stand at the Bab Agnou gate for a few minutes, Franzi and Co. we meet in the middle of the medina. The weather is not on our side, Every now and then a violent blow comes from above! Nevertheless, we have fun in the crowd, try delicious street food, Franzi finally finds the right plates and Karl is still in a good mood. Another visit to the cafe, then it's time, to finally say goodbye. One last hug, a few tears – they are already 3 submerged in the turmoil. We drive back to our workshop parking lot and dream about carpets, Leather bags, Ceramics,smells, Schmuck, Lamps, loudly shouting traders ………
06.01.26: our spare part is actually there and is being installed – The housing can now be tilted again. We are glad, to escape the hustle and bustle of the big city! On the way we visit the beautiful sculpture garden “Anima” von Andre Heller, a beautiful facility with great works of art and a large variety of plants. The peace and quiet here is wonderful and feels good.
Then we continue towards RN9 – However, we have to turn around twice and take a detour, because the Ourika River carries so much water with it due to the heavy rain, that the streets or. Bridges were washed away – Craziness. At the beginning of the pass road we find a good place to spend the night and we hope, that we can also get over the pass tomorrow.
07.01.26: an unknown object in the sky – is that the sun? ?? And, It is she and she shows herself in all her glory – our mood immediately rises. We continue on the RN9 with good cheer. An incredible number of slopes reduce the size of the road by half, This road was completely rebuilt just a few years ago. The forces of nature are frightening, we are glad, that we don't get a load of stones on the roof. On the pass itself everything is white, Apparently it snowed again tonight.
We are making good progress, Soon we will have brown earth and palm trees next to us again. Shortly before Ouarzazate a Moroccan stops us, he has a car breakdown and asks us, to deliver a message for his cousin in town. He writes us a note, We should leave it at a hotel ?? Okay, We're nice and we do it – the cousin thanks you very much. Then quickly to our beautiful place by the lake – There is already an Overlander there, Mannysadventures,232, a couple from Switzerland. We have a chat and enjoy the sunset.
08.01.26: Rest day !!! Today we stay on this wonderful piece of earth, do a bit of route planning, write website, repair little things and relax. Of course, a bathroom shouldn't be missing either – but really only completely, We briefly dive into the cold water – Afterwards you feel in great shape. In the evening there are an incredible number of stars in the sky, then you become aware again, what little tiny specks of dust we are !!
09.01.26, a refreshing bath as soon as we get up and we are wide awake !! The desert is calling, this is how we pack up, We quickly fill up the fridge in the Carrefour in Ouarzazate and then head east. On the way the landscape changes every few kilometers: first we cross a small pass of 1.600 m, Then it becomes flatter and all we see is stones. It suddenly turns green in the Draa valley, We see palm oases everywhere. In the oases you can see countless dilapidated clay houses, the new houses are simply built next to them. Agriculture can only be practiced in the small oases, Billions of stones grow in the remaining area. In the middle of nowhere, There is a quiet one near the small town of Afra, relaxed parking space.
10.01.26 The first rays of sunshine wake us up around half past eight – Today is another day of driving. After breakfast we set off, drive round 170 Kilometers on the RN17 through barren, desolate landscape, interrupted only by a few small villages. Shortly before Rissani we turn left onto a stone desert, enjoy the warm sun in shorts and a T-shirt. It feels like a real vacation !!
Sunday, 11.01.26: During my dog round I am surrounded by a pack of around 20 accompanied by dogs – they just came out of nowhere ?? Quappo barks back a bit, They are easily intimidated and trolled. After breakfast we set off on our first off-road tour from the snow groomer's book: it goes to the works of art by the German artist Hannsjörg Voth, the one between 1980 – 2000 three huge works of art in this desert (Marha plain) had built. The route is easy to find, We will soon reach the first object: the ladder to heaven. The sculpture is generously bordered with stones and we are barely standing in front of it, to take photos, A moped is already approaching.
The Berber shows me a piece of paper, which has a German translation on it: we could look at the three objects up close for an entrance fee of the equivalent of 15,– € /Person. By Moroccan standards this is really expensive and we think so, that the view from a distance is completely sufficient. The next object, the star of Orion, we can see it in the distance, So we continue on the slopes, Here too everything is fenced in with stones. The third sculpture, the golden spiral, is round again 4 kilometers away. We can't find the right slope here, The trip quickly becomes a real adventure: we don't know what to do anymore, get out, looking for a trace, where we somehow get out of the sandy ground again. A little adrenaline rush – and my driver and his girl make it back to the solid track. On the way we meet a few Berbers, who live here with their families and a large herd of camels. On the way back we stop in the middle of nowhere and relax in the warm sun.
12.01.26 Today I dare to get behind the wheel myself and drive Henriette on the slopes back to Erfoud. Really fun, the slope is suitable for beginners (Fortunately) !! The tires are quickly inflated again before the asphalt road, This now works quickly and easily thanks to the new tire pressure system. Shortly before Rissani we hide in a palm grove, the weather is perfect for sunbathing and naps. Quappo is having a lot of fun, he discovers a great puddle, in which he can completely soak himself – we are excited :)!!!!!!
13.01.2026 we leave the palm grove and plunge into the hustle and bustle: Today is market day in Rissani, a small town, which used to be an important center of the caravan trade. Quappo has to look after Henriette this time and stays in the car. We barely parked our vehicle, The first guides are already ready: Many people here are very talented in languages, We will be addressed in German straight away. Our vehement “no – no interest” is deliberately ignored – the penetrance is unbelievable. At some point we give up and an older Berber trots along next to us the whole time. He shows us the cattle market, the market for the locals, the donkey parking lot, the date market, negotiates the price of our vegetable purchases and spices. Everything is loud as always, chaotic, bunt , full of smells and impressions for all senses.
The cattle market is something special here, and we're about to get a pregnant sheep 2 Babies for a special price of 200,– € offered. We gratefully decline, a skunk in the car is enough :)!! Finally we ask our companion, where we have a Berber pizza (should be a specialty here) can eat and he takes us to a small restaurant. Finally he says goodbye to us and is happy with the 2,– € tip. We wait over tea (and freezing) a good half hour for our pizza. Finally the good thing comes: a large flatbread, the one with meat, Onions and lots (really a lot) is seasoned with cumin. It doesn't taste bad, But it definitely won't be my favorite dish. The spice still speaks to me all day long ??
Quappo is happy, that we'll come back and does a little dance of joy. We now continue to a nice campsite right on the dunes “Very Chebbi” . A few meters from our parking space you are in the middle of the fine, warm sand – splendid. We're going on a short hike, meet a few other overlanders and chat. Of course it is very touristy here, Small tents are set up everywhere in the dunes, where tourists can experience a night in the desert. Also tours with quads, Sunrise camel rides, campfire, Music and Moroccan food in the dunes are on the program. Luckily it's not the season right now, So it's quite relaxed and quiet here.
14.01.2026 – The view from the window makes us crawl under the covers again – there is no sun to be seen, dark clouds hang in the sky and it is cold. We're doing the morning round today with Miriam and Lennox – also an unneutered Ridgeback male. the 2 Boys don't particularly get along (the mistresses are all the better for it), everyone thinks so, he would be stronger than the other. At some point they trot alongside us in a relaxed manner, only now and then there is an evil look at the rival. Unfortunately, the sun is only visible a little, We walk around on the dunes at lunchtime in a thick sweater. There is another highlight for this: a really nice warm shower – without having to save water – a real luxury experience. Towards the evening a few more raindrops fall – That really wasn't a foregone conclusion !!!
15.01.2026 Thank God the sun has returned, everything is more fun again. We chat a little with Miriam, then with our new neighbors Michael and Luisa. As always, it will be later than planned, Now quickly fill up with water and then continue. When I filled up with water there was a shock – The water doesn't run into the tank but next to it ?? What's going on again? ?? Everything is dismantled, there we see the culprit: The piece of hose in front of the tank has a crack – MIST. Because of all the anger, we also forget the fuel cap – However, we only notice that later. When we arrive at our place by the lake, Hans-Peter immediately gets to work on the repairs, I'd rather get away with Quappo and let the man work in peace.
I see another MAN standing on the other side of the lake, so our path is clear. That's Michael and Henriette over there (and, actually a real Henriette), two nice pensioners from Cologne. Unfortunately, they also go the other way, So there is still no travel buddy in sight for the planned slope tour. Later I take a closer look at the business card and notice, that I have just spoken to a well-known expander of expedition vehicles – Michael is the founder of the company “bocklet”. We should have met him earlier, then we probably wouldn't have had so much trouble with our vehicle ?? My husband has now repaired the damage. tapped – We hope, that lasts for now. Now we can also see the beautiful lake and its inhabitants – enjoy a group of flamingos. In the evening there was a spectacular sunset – the anger is forgotten.
Friday, the 16.01. We take another quick look at the campsite, whether we might still find the lid – but no, we are out of luck. All the same, We are now starting on the off-road route to Zagora. First a few more supplies in the local one “Supermarket” acquired, Bought fruit and vegetables from the dealer, then let's go. The first 50 Henriette is still allowed to drive kilometers on asphalt, before things get jerky. Now it's time to let off some air, It's not quite so bumpy anymore.
We pass through a beautiful landscape with golden dunes, black stone mountains and camels, stones under the tires, Sand and quite a bit of silt too. Every now and then it gets a little uncomfortable, but we can get through everywhere. Just before the village of Ramlia (and, There are actually still settlements here in the middle of nowhere) Let's stand on one side and unpack the chairs. It doesn't take any 15 minutes, We're already getting visitors: Children from far away houses sense their chance, they want to sell us something. We politely decline, I'm going for a walk with Quappo first. But the girls are super persistent: when I returned after three quarters of an hour, they're still sitting there. At some point they softened me up and I buy for 2,– € a small souvenir. But that doesn't help much either: they remain in front of the car for over an hour, hoping for further financial blessings.
17.01.2026 Today we're heading to the difficult slopes: the crossing of the Queds behind Ramlia. Other overlanders had already warned us, that the slope is quite demanding. Do not pull, we want to know !!! Immediately after the start we reach the center of Ramlia, in fact there is a cafe and a school – otherwise we feel like we have been transported back to the Middle Ages – people live here as before 1.000 Years. We continue through the palm grove, then it gets tricky: we traverse around 3,5 Kilometer Fech Fech, this is an extremely fine one, powdery desert sand made from pulverized clay- and limestone soil, the like “dry quicksand” works and can therefore cause major problems. We have great respect, We let some air out of the tires beforehand and then dig through this sand field.
Hans-Peter drives with great concentration, Every fiber of people and vehicle is tense. We made it through well and eventually found ourselves on the banks of the Qued Rheris. The actual trail through the riverbed cannot be driven, There is still too much water here. So it goes along the edge of the bank, until we find a way to cross. The route is extremely bumpy, Henriette has to prove it, that it is really a good off-road vehicle. Even after crossing, the driver and vehicle still have work to do: the ground is very soft, Every now and then there are tricky spots. A few kilometers later things become more relaxed, In a huge valley, several slopes lead side by side to the west. Shortly behind Tafraout came the next shock: the slope leads over Lac Madier, which is supposed to have dried out – but he is not ?? The water here is probably half a meter high, Driving through is not an option. Also, briefly collect and continue around the lake – that works well. At some point we will be back on our slopes – everything went well. We've had enough for today, We drop Henriette off and set up camp for the night.
18.01.26 today a rather unspectacular day: We drive a few more kilometers on the slopes, reach the village of Oumjrane, are greeted here waving by all the village children and reach out to others 20 Kilometers of off-road asphalt again under the tires: the RN17. Rain has started, that spoils the view and the mood. Shortly before Zagora we turn left, We hide behind a sand dune and make ourselves comfortable there. It's lousy cold here, the wind whistles and the sun only appears for a few minutes. It's supposed to be sunny again tomorrow – that sounds good.
19.01. Unfortunately, Morocco lost the Africa Cup final yesterday, The people here seem a bit depressed today. The weather is fantastic again !! We drive to Tamegroute, a small town with around 1.000 residents.. Arrived at the parking lot, we are already being taken over by some leaders. First of all, we reject the offers, until Abdul suddenly appears next to us and speaks to us in German. He leads us to the Koran school and the very impressive library. There are over here 1.000 years old documents, the oldest written on gazelle skin with a reed pen. They are not documents – they are real works of art – beautiful calligraphy!! The exceptionally welcome dryness of the climate ensures that the texts are perfectly preserved. medicine, Astronomy, Philosophy, rhetoric, Quran law, literature, Grammatik, Algebra, Poems – all disciplines are represented here. Next door is the mausoleum of Sidi Muhammad b. Nasir al-Drawi, an important pilgrimage site here in the area. Some people are sitting in the courtyard, who hope for it, to be freed from your illness. Some people probably sit here for weeks ??
The children's recitations come from the Koran school, Here too we can take a look. Then we go to the underground Kasbah, we are standing directly in the darkness. The potter families live here, who run the oldest pottery in the world here – and just like hundreds of years ago. We really can't believe it, under what conditions people work here – every trade unionist would be horrified. Of course Abdul also takes us to the underground shop, and yes, we can't make it out without a little shopping. Green ceramics are typical here – a metal mixture made from manganese. Definitely a very interesting city, we learned a lot. Back in Zagora we drink tea in the legendary Iriki car repair shop, Then we settle in at the CP Oasis Palmier. Another walk into town, A rather mediocre dinner there but with a beautiful sunset.
20.01. I meet Markus on the morning round, who is currently tinkering with his vehicle. Coincidentally, he also wants to take the same route as us to Foum Zuig – We'll have to talk about this again after breakfast. understood, We all like each other and so we arrange to meet, to do the route together. More water quickly, Refill diesel and food, so we are prepared. We don't want to leave until tomorrow, So we look for a nice parking space at the Tinfou dune, something outside, because we couldn't get a sunny spot on the CP anymore. We can see it from far away, that a Berber immediately with his 2 Camels come to us. understood, I really intended to, to sit on a desert ship like this at some point. Mohammed doesn't let up either, this is how we sit 5 Minutes later we met Buch and Mahmod and let us swing around the dune. Really very comfortable such a camel !!!
21.01. Today we're supposed to start with our off-road route and the new travel buddies ! First of all, the departure is delayed, because Markus still has a problem with his water tank. But against 14.00 Then everyone is ready to go, Rainer takes the lead. After an hour of driving, however, we notice, that we are on the wrong route: Rainer had entered the GPS data, However, our route SMZ was confused with the other route SZM. No problem, We're going back a bit, take a shortcut through a nice little town and finally reach the right waypoint again. It is already now 18.00 clock, So we quickly look for a place to stay for the night, toast today's tour with a delicious white wine, tell, cook and eat together.
22.01 it goes into the dunes – we are all excited. Rainer takes the lead again, We soon see small dune fields to our left. Short discussion, then it starts. Rainer bravely drives right into the middle, then Markus ventures into the area. We'll first look at everything from a little distance !! It doesn't take long either, Markus is stuck there – also, everyone grab the shovel and dig. Rainer hooks up his vehicle and after a good hour everyone is ready to drive again. No 5 Minutes later, Henriette buries herself in the sand – so the same workout again. !! So, We've done enough shoveling for today, We form a wagon castle in the middle of the dunes and relax in the sun. Everyone talks about their travel experiences, it won't be boring.
23.01. The next morning everyone is fit again and ready for the next adventure (It won't take long for that to happen either :)) We set off on the last stage of our tour together. The route is very nice to drive, Nobody sinks into the sand and we reach the small village of M’Hamid – the last settlement before the desert !! Everything here is geared towards desert tourism, There are camps everywhere, Hotels, Quad rental, Camel rides and of course shops, to equip yourself for this adventure. There is an amazing selection at the supermarket, So we stock up on supplies again. There's supposed to be a sandstorm tomorrow, That's why we're looking for a sheltered place, so as not to be blown away. Rainer drives ahead as always, However, the parking space operator you are driving to wants the equivalent of 30 for one night,– € (with breakfast though, but that's just outrageously expensive for this area). All right then, we turn around and drive to another CP – that's the plan !! The next shock: a power cable hangs too low, Rainer intervenes – we honk and scream !! Thank God he stops in time, otherwise the concrete pylon would certainly have fallen over !! Hans-Peter quickly climbs onto the roof and, after a few seconds of shock, is able to free the cable. Markus hits it on the temple, but all the teeth remained intact – everything went well again. As I said, there is a new adventure every day. With our pulse still high, we head for another CP, and find a great place there. A wagon castle is quickly built, Then sit in the sun and slowly get your pulse down to normal speed. We sit outside for a long time in the evening, it is pleasantly warm, no wind, just star lighting.
24.01. We hear the neighbors working early in the morning: Rainer and Markus are lying under their cars and are working on things !! I'm heading to the supermarket with Quappo, need to buy some more socks. Work will continue later – Everyone still has a few little things to tinker with, Laundry is being washed, Cupboards cleaned …… Around midday the wind picks up speed and quickly develops into a full-fledged sandstorm. Everyone barricades themselves in their little house, and watches the spectacle from the couch. In the meantime, Hans-Peter has a telephone conference and connection with OMD, to find out, why Henriette is starting so hesitantly again. Unfortunately there is no clear one, quick diagnosis, We have to continue to monitor and the nice employee will connect again on Monday. Alright, would have been too easy.
25.01. the storm has blown out – everything is almost back to normal – except for the layer of dust, that was everywhere. Also, First I got a bucket of water and wiped away the worst layer. Then a meeting with the rest of our group: Markus and Silvia have decided, not to ride the off-road route. They couldn’t get any money in M’Hamid, therefore do not fill up – and getting stuck on the slopes is not a good idea either. Rainer definitely wants to come with us, so we just go along for the ride 2 vehicles. The water tank is quickly filled up, said goodbye to everyone, then it starts. Rainer drives up and we chug along behind. The asphalt road ends shortly after leaving the town, Our snow groomer tour begins from here. We want to bypass the Erg Chegaga on the southern route, This is probably the more demanding and lonely route. We are making good progress on the first section, However, my navigation system complains at some point, that we had strayed from the route. All the same, usually the tracks come together again at some point, We ignore Erna for now. At some point we come to a river bed, the ground becomes softer – so turn left again – However, there is a dune field there ?? It's already over now 17.00 clock, so we park the cars next to each other, cook and eat something and end the evening by the campfire.
26.01. serious briefing over breakfast: let's dare, to drive further into the dune field ?? I've walked a bit with Quappo and in my opinion that's not feasible for our vehicles. Fortunately, men see it the same way, so we turn around and drive around 10 kilometers back, until we have the right slope under our tires. A few camel groups with tourists come towards us, they are on their way to an overnight stay in the desert. We are now on the right track, the route is fun, the weather is right !! Shortly before the lion dune there is a bit of driving training: Rainer and Hans-Peter drive over a few dunes, They are becoming more and more courageous and the dunes are getting higher and higher. It's working better and better, Both are beaming like children in front of the Christmas tree. For the night spot we drive very close to the dunes, It's beautiful here and we sit outside in the sun for a long time. The sunset makes the dunes shine again in all their glory, it really is pure magic. The starry sky also leaves nothing to be desired.
27.01. We continue on the Pistenkuh slope, we cross the Qued Draa, drive over bumpy slopes and occasionally a few dune fields. A small sandstorm begins at midday, We can hardly see Rainer anymore because of all the dust. The last dune field stretches for a good kilometer, the passage is really difficult, since no traces can be seen anymore. But Rainer finds a good path and we get to firmer ground without digging in. Now over the dry Lake Iriki – Here you can really step on the gas, the speedometer shows over 60 km/h. We now have to drive a few more kilometers cross-country, so that we can continue on the next route tomorrow. It's blowing really hard in the evening, we barricade ourselves in the cars, The camping chairs are no longer used today.
28.01. Having had a good night's sleep, we want to tackle the next slope. As always, everything is well stored, it can start. Then the shock: Rainer cannot build up brake air ?? What's going on there ?? The two men are debating, try and talk shop. First of all, the Starlink is unpacked again, so we can – if necessary – at least ask for help. Hans-Peter has a good idea, to ask Markus Gruse at the company O-M Offroad-Motorhomes and ChatGPT will also be asked. Actually, that's a problem, which happens often with this MAN model. Also, Tilt the cabin and unscrew everything as instructed, clean up, Blow out the sand and screw it back on. And the engine actually runs again after this action. You can hear a huge stone falling from your heart, everyone is relieved and happy. This is how we come – a little late though, but that doesn't matter – still on track. We continue on the former Paris-Dakar rally route, In fact, an official rally took place here yesterday. We still come across a few vehicles. A military post controls us, the soldiers are friendly and a few minutes later we can move on. The landscape is varied, there is steppe, rock, Berge, Trees and occasional herds of camels. We reach our destination in the evening: the beautiful rock formation of El Madouar. Coincidentally, there is a big one, dead bush on our site, almost an invitation to a campfire. Hans-Peter quickly saws off the branches, stack everything up and the fire will burn – just beautiful. So dinner is a little later today, As always, the three of us eat.
29.01. Today it is actually really warm in the morning, so that the morning round is possible in shorts and a T-shirt. Now there are only 20 Kilometers to our meeting point in Foum Zguid, Markus and Silvia are waiting for us here. The two of them were a bit sad, that they couldn't come with us. First of all, we will report in detail about the route and our experiences (Markus seems a bit jealous). Later we head for the next gas station and the next ATM. I want to go shopping with Quappo, However, we are too late, The stalls at the market are all packed up. So we have to walk far into the village, until we finally find a fruit shop and bakery. Gut, now everything is filled up, But now the mosquitoes in Henriette still have to be destroyed. no idea, why there are so many of these annoying little animals everywhere – Here they are really violent and annoying, Otherwise there are hardly any animals here.
30.01. In the morning, Quappo and I walk to the boulangerie again, to grab some Moroccan croissants. Equipped in this way, our caravan continues west. However, we only come close 70 kilometers away: behind the village of Tissint we find a small oasis and a beautiful river canyon. We decide unanimously, that we just look for a nice place here and spend the day. We quickly find a plateau, where we can all stand next to each other. Chairs are unpacked, Coffee is made and the croissants from this morning go to my stomach.
We take the afternoon walk through the dry river valley, only after 3 After a kilometer walk we find a bit of water. Quappo immediately dives into the brown one, brackige Nass, After this cooling down we make it back again. In the meantime, the men tinkered around a bit with their cars again, Somehow a screw is always loose somewhere.
31.01. This morning we congratulate the birthday girl Carola in Mauloff !! Then a short consultation after breakfast: Where are you going today? ?? In the travel guide I read about a few caves behind Tata, this is right on our way to the west and is in 1,5 Available hours. So we reach the town of Tata around lunchtime, There are also many shops here, to do the necessary shopping. Unfortunately, there are no parking signs and busy police officers everywhere. Rainer gets a nice ticket (beautifully filled out in Arabic) about 15,00 €, discussing is pointless. Just behind the town are the caves of Messalit, geologically fascinating tuff caves, which were created by a former waterfall. In the afternoon heat we explore the caves, Rainer is taking good care of our cars in the meantime. There are real little cave dwellings, People used to be able to find refuge from the scorching sun here in the summer. For the rest of the afternoon we let the sun tan and enjoy doing nothing.
01.02. Today Markus is taking over the travel planning and is driving with us on a beautiful route through uninhabited landscapes. The area is deserted, there really is nothing here – but the landscape is still so diverse and beautiful: There are always special stone formations, the colors change from gray to brown and ochre, then you come out of the mountains into huge plains – really impressive. A lot of work is being done on the small road (we ask ourselves why – There's really nothing here), Like almost all side streets, it is in surprisingly good shape.
After around 60 Kilometers later we come to a huge palm grove near Ait Rehal, drive through the small one, quite run-down Kasbah and finally discover two waterholes. Unfortunately everything is once again very littered, a shame about this wonderful spot. The place is not suitable for overnight stays, we are in the middle of town, Children immediately come running begging. A few kilometers further we find a small palm grove, where we spend the rest of the day undisturbed. In the evening the men make a nice campfire out of the dry palm fronds and we drink our last bottle of white wine together.
02.02. Markus drives up again, to take us to the next sightseeing point: There are said to be many rock carvings in this area ?? We head to the point listed in Google and start searching. We almost walked past it – it's actually just a small boulder, on which you can see a few drawings – no idea, how old and who these works of art come from ?? We'll stay on this track straight away, Drive a little further and look for shade under a few acacia trees. The chairs are unpacked, Made coffee and baked croissants. Later the sky clouds over a bit, the wind comes up. It gets uncomfortable, everyone retreats into their own four walls. At least we have time, Print out the visa for Mauritania. Our printers dutifully spit out the first copy, with the second one it complains and only prints after many attempts, Persuasion and finally changing the toner cartridge – Just technology !!
03.02. the storm has calmed down a bit, The tour continues in the most beautiful sunshine. We're heading north, first stop in the next village of Aguerd, to in “Supermarket” to shop. The range is always very limited in these small shops, but at least we get bread, Eggs and some cookies – that's how you can survive. Shortly afterwards it begins “Canyons Route”, a truly spectacular route. The road is well developed, Only a few diversions lead over short, bumpy slopes. The gorge is far and wide at first, then it gets narrower and narrower, later oases follow and it goes up and down. An absolute dream and almost nothing going on. Towards the end of the massive gorge there are steep switchbacks uphill, we're coming to about 1.300 m. Around 20 Kilometers before Tafraout we find a stunning parking space next to the road with a phenomenal view of the valley. It is windy and cold though, But that doesn't detract from the beauty. After a short dog walk we return to our vehicles – and lo and behold, our group has grown. They are Doris and Richard from Esslingen, two very likeable people, There is also a little dog, Quappo is very impressed with it. We'll tell you a little more, but it's just too uncomfortable, to be able to stay outside longer.
04.02. Wafts of fog rise from the valley, a wonderful start to the day. Another chat with the friendly neighbors, They would love to go with us, but their route goes in the opposite direction. On me, Maybe we'll meet again somewhere, we would be pleased. Our small group sets off, to explore the colorful stones of Tafraout. A Belgian artist named Jean Verame has 1984 large granite rocks in the desert of the Anti-Atlas with blue, painted yellow and pink paint. It's a strange art object, but a really nice photo opportunity. The painted stones are scattered widely, So we walk around here for a while. It'll be later 15 Kilometers further to Tafraout. The small town is beautifully situated – embedded in these very special mountains and rock formations. The place itself seems very neat and well maintained, there are many shops, Hotels and restaurants. We can park on a huge area in front of the city – in the middle of what feels like a hundred other mobile homes. While strolling through the city we stock up on delicious fruit, Vegetables and olives, even a few bottles of beer (don't ask about the price) we can get it here. In the evening we surprisingly receive a visit from the police – it wouldn't actually be allowed, to stand here, but we could stay for one night ??? Whoever wants to understand that – There are literally hundreds of vehicles here on this site ? Tafraoute – definitely a surprisingly likeable one, beautiful spot on our earth.
05.02. we have to move on – had assured the police officer that, So we drive slowly towards Guelmin. In between, water is filled up on the side of the road, Of course, with three vehicles this takes time. The landscape changes again, everything will be greener, Some of the almond trees are already blooming, the mountains become flatter, the valleys continue. We drive briefly in the thickest fog, but soon the sun will shine again. Somewhere along the route Markus finds a junction, we all turn around and find a nice one, quiet place for us alone. All vehicles still have a job to do: the toilet needs to be cleaned again, This is the ideal place for that. After the work is done, we sit outside for a long time, Only towards evening does a cold wind come and it becomes uncomfortable.
06.02. Just a short drive and we'll get to the “big city” Guelmim. Around 130.000 People live here, The place used to be an important trading center and destination for large caravans, who moved here from Mauritania and Senegal through the Sahara. The market became particularly important for the camel trade. Dromedars. We leave the city on the left for now and immediately steer the huge one, modern supermarket Marjane. The parking lot looks like a campsite, there are already estimates 40 more campers here. The range in the store is really impressive, We haven't seen such a big store since Marrakesh. So this is how stocks are replenished, The freezer was packed and other little things were taken care of. Markus and Silvia meet their Swiss travel buddies Jolanda and Roland again, there is a big hello. The two Swiss are super friendly, people laugh and talk. Towards the evening the children's carousel suddenly starts up behind us, plus an overdriven music system: Moroccan sounds, completely distorted, loud and completely unsuitable for our ears. We try, to counteract this with our own music system, but we can't help it. When our heads almost burst, Let's take a long walk in the dark. Finally – it is now 23.00 clock – the loudspeaker is switched off and we breathe a sigh of relief.
07.02. Getting up early is the order of the day, We want to go to the camel market today, which takes place every Saturday. We'll drive up with the two Swiss guys, the others 2 Vehicles are still waiting for fresh meat to be delivered to the supermarket. When we arrived at the huge square, we were immediately in the middle of the hustle and bustle: We had never experienced such a large market in Morocco before. There is simply everything here: Right at the beginning there are the traders with the live chickens, then come the large halls for the fruit and vegetable traders. Next we go to the animals: Goats, Sheep and cattle on one side, on the other side the camels. For 2,000,– € we could take an animal with us – So a herd of camels is a real investment. We buy ourselves at a stand 2 beautiful Berber jackets with the obligatory pointed hats, very comfortable and warm. Of course, fruit and vegetables are also purchased, You can't get it better or cheaper. We have to walk back to the car a few times, to store our purchases. Finally we come to Handwerkerstrasse, our men also find a few little things here, that you can use. After three hours we are all exhausted and want to get out of the fray.
We saw it on the internet, that there is a shop in town, where you can buy beer, That's what we're heading to next. Things turn out to be more difficult than expected: the streets are getting smaller and smaller, We won't reach our goal with Henriette like this – So turn around and look for another route. Finally we park our vehicle on the street and walk a few meters – but where is the shop ?? Only after asking several questions did we discover the little one, well-hidden shop in a side alley. Packed with 2 Palettes Beer (we also shopped for the others !!) let's make our way back. Now the next shock: Rainer lost coolant and therefore went to the nearest workshop. So we all wait for the mechanic – In fact, after half an hour he comes with a new hydraulic hose, installs it, tapes up a small hole – and we can move on. To 60 Kilometers we reach the Plage blanche, a huge one 40 Kilometers of sandy beach. The parking lot is already full “normal” mobile homes, So of course Rainer goes straight to the beach. Everyone follows along on the soft sand — Henriette gets stuck. Okay, We already know the procedure: Unpack the shovel, Release air, Attach the rope and we're out again. Today's program really filled the day, We are all done and decide, to take a rest day for the next day.
08.02. Beach roof !!! We sit comfortably in front of the vehicles, tell, drink coffee, go for a walk on the beach and look, what happens on the beach. It doesn't take long, Rainer's commitment is already being demanded: A car has gotten stuck and is asking for help. We are now complete professionals, The car is outside again in no time. While walking on the beach we push out the next candidate and shortly afterwards the third car – So nothing with a day off !! Then the next day has to be planned: we want to take a tour of the snow groomer: 30 Kilometers along the beach, then continue on the slopes to Tan Tan. The route is only easy to drive after high tide, so we agree, that we're at tomorrow 9.00 Start clock.
09.02. Punctual at 8.00 We'll all meet at o'clock, armed with a coffee in hand, in front of the vehicles. Unfortunately the weather doesn't seem to be going so well, but that cannot be changed. Everyone starts on time 4 vehicles, Rainer takes the lead again. The sand is still pretty wet, the heavy monsters leave deep tracks. But everything works well, We're making good progress. 30 kilometers and 1,5 Hours later we arrive at a crossroads: Here we would have to turn left, to get onto the slope above the edge. The men run the route, Markus and Roland come back after half an hour and have decided, that they will not drive this route, Rainer and Hans-Peter are still thinking and planning ?? Rainer is really itching, to continue, but the rest of us are all against it. Finally we can convince Rainer, to go back with us, That's just common sense. The return journey is much easier and quicker, the sand is drier and much firmer.
We find a nice spot on the dunes and build our wagon castle again. As the icing on the cake, we even get a free concert from Jolanda and Roland: They both have their alphorns with them and play for us – totally beautiful!! We sit together outside for a long time, It's really the last evening with this nice group – very unfortunate and sad !!
10.02. Now the time has really come to say goodbye – we are all sad. You have the feeling, knowing each other forever, The two weeks together were really nice. Everything was fine, a funny one, motley crew. In any case, we'll see each other again, with Mark, We want to go on a few tours together with Silvia and Rainer in Mauritania. Joli and Roli will go back to Europe, Let's see, when we run into each other. Now we're going in opposite directions. Unfortunately the weather is not so friendly today, we're just driving 30 Kilometers further to a beautiful one, but unfortunately very littered beach area. The environment has completely changed on the short route, there are green hills, many flowers are blooming. Quappo finds a nice dog girl, the two are 3 Busy together for hours – the other beach dogs are left behind. After a short walk we spend the rest of the day in Henriette, it's just too uncomfortable outside.
11.02. Early in the morning, our loving dog child looks longingly out of the window – and yes, the little friend is lying in front of the car. So we do another round with the whole gang (a few furry friends accompany us), before Quappo has to say goodbye. Unfortunately, the sun slowly disappears behind a thick wall of fog, so we can only imagine the beautiful landscape. We are surrounded by green hills, some agriculture is practiced, but there are also a few campsites and hotels along the route. Many French people probably spend the winter here, In any case, the CPs are well attended. In Mirleft we pass a real boulangerie – There are delicious croissants and snail pasta here – that makes up for the bad weather. Shortly behind the town we find a brilliant parking space on the cliffs, enjoy coffee outside and could die for the raisin snails !! It will be stormy in the evening, Every now and then at night we are startled by a violent wave.
12.02. Even today the fog doesn't want to go away, Beach life isn't really fun. After breakfast we leave 50 Kilometers further to an even lonelier place in the middle of the sand dunes (Hopefully we can get out of here again tomorrow without shovels ??). Quappo examines the surroundings with me, we actually find a steep staircase, which leads down to the beach. There are a few abandoned fishing huts here. Dwellings, really always impressive, how some of the people live here. The sun isn't showing at all today, So we retreat into the living room, spend the rest of the day reading, Spielen, Cooking and eating.
13.02. my excellent driver manages the exit from the dunes without any problems – So the training in Erg Chegaga paid off !! Back on solid ground we drive a small loop to the east. We've been meaning to do this all along, us another real one “Agadir”, to look at a Berber storage castle. Here in Inoumar there is one of the largest Agadires, that is our goal for today. Arrived in the small town, The head of the cooperative immediately stands next to us: We should definitely spend the night on his little campsite, There would be warm showers and in the evening we could have a delicious tagine. Actually we didn't plan to do that, but the Moroccan is very enterprising and won't let us out of his sight. Gut, So first a visit to Agadir: we are standing in front of closed doors, but after we knocked, a very nice young man opened the door for us. He proudly shows us his Agadir, the one as storage, Bank, Lager, courtroom etc. served: each Berber family was allowed up to 3 Rent cells and put all your assets there, Supplies , keep important documents. At this time the Berbers roamed the land as nomads, it was very important, this “Bank” to have. A “Amen” (Guardian of the castle) looked after the building around the clock with his helpers, which was built like a bulwark. The Amin received a large pot full of grain for his services, a smaller one the mosque, the very little ones and a spoon was for the cats.
They had an important task, to hunt the mice, who wanted to get their hands on the supplies. A really great system, that has worked for centuries. To this day, these storage facilities are still used sporadically, you can find them all over North Africa. After the tour we are invited to Berber whiskey, There are also delicious cookies and peanuts. Really a very interesting and impressive facility !!! Of course, our friend is already standing at the car and promoting his campsite. This place is run by a cooperative, that wants to attract tourists here. Some of the facility is still under construction, However, another part is already falling apart again – like with many projects, that we see here. In the evening we get a delicious tagine delivered to the motorhome, a great service.
14.02. the morning round is exciting for Quappo – Suddenly all the village dogs come towards us on the way, a pack of sure 10 – 12 The dog. But we will not be intimidated !! We'll just retreat :)! The route continues to Taroudante, they say, that would be the little sister of Marrakesh. We find a small parking lot in the middle of town, on which Hans-Peter parks our girl with millimeter precision. The tannery is right next to us, We want to look for skins for the seats in the driver's cab. We had seen someone on Facebook, who had it done and we really liked the idea. The owner of the tannery takes care of us right away, shows us the entire complex in detail and then of course the shops around it in even more detail. We arise 2 Camel belt, Our belts are already a little dilapidated. Then we ask about the skins and yes, this is not a problem. Abdo comes straight to our car and measures everything – Everything should be ready tomorrow.
So let's take a look at the very authentic one, loud, lively and chaotic towns. The entire medina is surrounded by a huge wall, through some large gates (like in Marrakesh) you come in. We buy fruit and eggs at the market, In a small coffee we enjoy delicious cafe au lait. Then we buy meat at a small stand, Roll filled with vegetables and spices – a very tasty dinner !!! After a day like that, all three of us are exhausted and put our feet up.
15.02. in the morning at 5.00 We are woken up by the chants of Iman, which seems to be shouting particularly loudly today. We'll find out later, that something is wrong with our time – it's only half way 7 o'clock and the sun is already shining through the window – mysterious !! Google enlightens us: Due to Ramadan from Tuesday, the time was changed by one hour – So puzzle solved. Shortly after 9.00 o'clock Abdo is already at our door, brings the finished sheepskins and adjusts everything. We are happy about our new one, warm and soft covers. Now Henriette is made beautiful from the outside, In a large car wash, an employee spends a good hour cleaning up the sand and dirt, who has settled on Henriette. Hans-Peter is also happy about the clean girl, everyone is satisfied. Shortly before Agadir we find a great parking space in an argan grove, The washing machine can do its job here, This way the towels and T-shirts also get clean – what a successful day !!!!
16.02. what a wonderful day: the sun is shining pleasantly 25 City !! We take the trip into town a little longer and just sit in the camping chair. Only against 14.00 o'clock we start Henriette, We set off for the big city of Agadir. Half an hour later we feel like we are in another world – that should be Morocco ?? Agadir is a totally modern place, clean and tidy city, could just as easily be in Spain or France. We first have to digest this culture shock !! Our destination is the Carrefour, we park our car in the parking lot. We barely got out, A Steyr we know also drives into the parking lot: they are Jolanda and Roland, cannot be grasped, that we meet here – Nobody believes that !! In any case, the joy is great, We do our shopping together and then look for a parking space in the city. There is actually a good place to stay overnight in the city center. Quappo and I discovered a nice pizzeria on our evening tour, You have to use that. Also, Ordered a pepperoni pizza, 10 Waited a few minutes and then returned to the camper with the delicious cargo. The good piece is divided fairly into four parts – Now we have become even more hungry. understood, we decide, go to the Italian restaurant together for dinner. It's going to be a very nice evening, the pizza is excellent and the ambience is very conducive to our taste !!! Morocco in the light version 🙂
17.02. a day full of great emotions !!!! Today we have a visit from our friends Cori and Armin from Germany. You are traveling with the AIDA and have a day of shore leave in Agadir. Against 11.00 The taxi arrives at our place, a huge hello, lots of hugs and lots to talk about. They have important documents in their luggage (unsere Passage Book) as well as some things, which we had still ordered. There is a new water pump for Jolanda and Roland, so great, that it worked in the short term. After everything was distributed, everyone got to know each other and the initial excitement has subsided, our Swiss friends say goodbye. Jolanda and Roland still have a few items on their bucket list, So we let them go with a heavy heart. We've really grown fond of both of them, so love, funny and likeable people, Hopefully we'll meet again somewhere.
Myth Cori, Armin, Hella and Tobi make our way to the souk, a distance of just under 3 Kilometer. We pass through not so clean corners of Agadir, a bit of a culture shock for the young people. Arrived at the market, we're right back in the middle of the hustle and bustle. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a cat comes running towards Quappo and attacks him, hissing. The bitch gets a kick from me – but she really clings to my foot and can hardly be shaken off. Incomprehensible, what criminal energy these cats have here. Exhausted from this experience, we look for a quiet place and treat the wounds. Luckily nothing worse happened, just a few scratches and a lifetime of cat trauma !!
We continue through the market, then we head to the beach. Another walk from 2 Kilometers – a pretty sporty day. The beach promenade is really very, very nice, everything was well maintained and spotlessly clean. We drink white wine and beer in a small restaurant – That's easy to do here. Everyone enjoys this great day, We could sit and chat forever. But at some point our friends have to go back, the ship should not leave without her. They drive away in a taxi, We now walk back alone to our Henriette. It's almost here 18.00 clock, We want to get out of the city. However, we didn't expect so much traffic, We're only making progress at a snail's pace. Before the sun has completely set, we stand on the side of the road to spend the night.
18.02. so, Now we're slowly embarking on the long journey into Western Sahara !! The road resembles a German highway, one truck follows the other. In Guelmim we can fill our water tank, we're moving on again. However, there will be a short interruption: the police stop us (the first time in 3 months in Morocco !) we would be 8 Driven kilometers too fast ?? Okay, There was actually a sign with it 60 km/h, We must have overlooked that. Now the traffic ticket still needs to be filled out, a rather complicated matter, which lasts a quarter of an hour. The converted 15,00 Euros can be tolerated, We now have a beautiful hand-painted document for this. Behind Tan Tan we find a parking space on the beach, actually really nice, but as always, incredibly littered. At night we only hear the sound of the waves and sleep really well.
19.02. In the morning, after a long search, I actually find a small shop, the fruit- and sells vegetables. Now during Ramadan, many shops don't open until the evening, life works a little differently. We head south again on the N1. A short photo stop at the Devil's Hole in Akhfennir, a collapse hole created by erosion – Anyway, very photogenic. We continue directly along the coast with a lot of oncoming traffic and lots of military posts. Since Western Sahara is not officially recognized to this day, Everything here is strictly monitored. We reach Laayoune late in the afternoon, another blatant culture shock: everything is perfectly laid out with beautiful parks, The walk, fountain, Palm trees, McDonalds and malls ?? You no longer understand the world. We'll read it later, that the Moroccan government is investing a lot of money in this area, to settle people here. There is also a huge phosphate deposit here, which brings a lot of money into the city coffers. We take a quick look at the Marjane – one of the most beautiful supermarkets in all of Morocco. Outside the city you can go to the airport for 3,– Euro stay well,
20.02. On the morning round I have a really annoying and unpleasant encounter for the first time in Morocco: a Moroccan comes towards me, shakes my hand and talks to me incessantly in Arabic. He follows me the whole way, I just can't shake him. He walks back with me to the parking lot, probably wants a few dirhams or a gift ?? Even Quappo couldn't stop him, to get on my nerves, really nasty. On me, That was really an exception !!! We continue back onto the N1, a quick photo stop at the stranded shipwreck in El Marsa. Otherwise the landscape changes again and again, it becomes grayer and dustier, many camels cross the path. Behind Boujdour we turn off to a place on the beach, as it turns out, a real stroke of luck. The landscape is beautiful, turquoise sea and light sand. We are immediately greeted by the local pack of dogs – with seven little puppies. Thankfully, Quappo willingly gives up his food and we get a little fed up with the pack. Another little beach walk, then just eat and sleep.
21.02. The last long day of driving is upon us: still round 450 It's kilometers to the border station. The journey is quite boring at times, but despite everything, the landscape keeps changing. We also have a few animal encounters: Huge herds of camels are on the move, and even larger flocks of locusts. They hit the windshield like little bombs, Millions lie dead on the streets. Against 18.00 We reach the border town of Guerguarate – the truly ugliest village in Morocco !! Everything is totally run down, everything is endlessly trashed, dusty, dirty – That really shocks me. Actually, I don't feel like meeting Mauritanians at all right now ???
With this travel report from Morocco we will post the reports here on the website – Writing and especially uploading the pictures takes an incredible amount of time and energy. You are welcome to continue following us via the FindPenguins app, Our journey will continue to be documented there. You can easily find us at “Henriette2.0 on tour” . We are happy, if you continue to follow us and travel with us !!!
