Flores
Friday, the 01.03.2024, We set off for the border straight after breakfast. It's only a few kilometers, We are already standing in front of the Belizean border post. Everything is quite simple and organized here: We pay at the first counter 20,- € exit fee (!) per capita, At the next counter, your exit will be stamped in your passport, then to the next switch, Stamp the TIP and Henriette in your passport – that was pretty easy. We drive on slowly, come to Guatemalan territory. The first thing to do here is to spray Henriette again with some anti-fungal agent (is mandatory and must also be paid, then we just stand in the way with our huge vehicle ?? The officers wave their arms around, that we had to get out here and complete the formalities, That car can stop here in the middle. Everything seems totally chaotic, coming soon 5 Men approach us, who want to help us cross the border. First of all we refuse, would have laughed, if we couldn't do it alone. There are only a few counters in the building itself, Most border guards are busy playing, Essen, Drink and chat. After a few minutes we are mercifully noticed and our passport is stamped. Now we need the TIP for the car – this will be a longer process. After more 10 Waiting minutes, the officer takes our papers (We already have copies of all the necessary documents ready) and states, that he still needs a copy of the Belize exit stamp. To do this we would have to go a few meters further to the kiosk, they can do that. OK, will be done, Of course no one speaks English here and we have to pay in Quetzal ?? On me, our US dollars will eventually (at a very good exchange rate for them) also accepted, we get our copy. Back at the counter, our officer is gone ?? Well, okay, he will come again. In fact, he reappears shortly afterwards, manufactures it 2 people in front of us, then we'll get back to it. He's going with us to Henriette's, look closely at the chassis number, checks the license plate and our basement room. Finally he is satisfied, goes back to his counter and turns off the TIP. Halt – not quite finished yet: we first have to pay the fee for it at the kiosk – So back to the two business-minded ladies, After a lot of math, we can also pay the fee in dollars, The confirmation of payment is then filled out by hand and stamped three times (lasted about 20 minutes). So, Now back to the officer, then we can enter with Henriette. Nobody asked about the dogs here, we didn't mention them either ??
Satisfied, to have crossed the border, Let's head for the ATM in the next village. Unfortunately he just spits 2.000 Quetzal aus, but that's how we are liquid for now. The next shock at the gas station: when you convert the price, costs per liter here 4,- € – That can't be true – or ??? We quickly get the information in the travel guide: The metric measure applies everywhere here, Gallons are only used at gas stations ?? All right then, then the price is right. In the afternoon we reach our first destination: Flores, a small town located on Lake Peten Itza. Here we find a large parking lot right on the lakeshore, first of all perfect for us. We'll go shopping soon and later we'll get a Guatemalan SIM card, to be a little connected to the world.
Starlink
Saturday, the 03.03.2024: Before breakfast we make our way to the MAX electronics store, You should be able to buy Starlink here. We actually get the package we've been waiting for and happily carry it to the car. We optimistically set about installing it – he finds the antenna and the internet – That's a good thing. Unfortunately that was it – about 3 Hours we try, create a new customer account – unsuccessful. The mood is at its lowest point, We are totally annoyed and don't know what to do next. What the hell, We pack up all the junk and drive straight to the store. I ask very politely, if anyone can help us with the installation – yes ready, a young man comes with us and looks at the problem. Of course nobody speaks a word of English here, communication is difficult – Hans-Peter's cell phone is first switched to Spanish. The two employees are extremely helpful, call an expert, don't give up. In fact, they're after it 1,5 Hours done, the antenna is installed and the customer account is set up – so lucky.
Back in the parking lot we first have to take the dogs out for a walk, They were locked in the Henrietta the whole time in the heat. In the evening we enjoy our connection to the world, watch the news again and communicate with our loved ones.
On Sundays we wake up early to music and talking – There will probably be a meeting in the nearby Centro Cultural ?? All the same, It's very hot in the car anyway, So we walk around the lake. There will be a bit of cleaning later, bossed and the website can finally be updated. We can also take out our car insurance for Guatemala online – another point to check off. In the evening we stroll together to the small island and have a delicious meal in a nice beach restaurant.
According to our research, Guatemala is the poorest country, that we have been able to get to know so far on our trip. The average annual salary is just 5.081,- US-Dollar. Die Maya, as the original population of Guatemala, today again represent more than 40% of the population share. Ladinos live next to them, Garifunas (dark-skinned slave descendants) and white people. Become in Guatemala 24 different (Maya) Languages spoken, which are actually different. The vast majority of the population suffers from the extremely unfair distribution of land. Light around 2 percent of the population (Ladinos) are owners of more than 70% the agricultural area – This unequal distribution of land is one of the main factors of poverty. When you drive through the villages, one sees, how the families live and try to live in tiny houses with just one room, somehow survive. Despite the poverty, the people are incredibly friendly, in a good mood, curious and interested – We are warmly welcomed everywhere.
Tikal
To 3 Days in the parking lot in Flores we are ready, for new adventures: Today Tikal is on the agenda, the most important attraction in Guatemala. There is a difficulty for us here: There is an absolute ban on dogs throughout the national park, You're not even allowed to take them in the car. So Henriette is parked in front of the entrance in full sun and the air conditioning is turned on, So the boys have it quite comfortable.
There is zero crowd at the ticket counter, so we have in 5 minutes our tickets (the employee actually needs our passports and the passport numbers are written on the tickets- no idea why ??). Now we need for that 12 Kilometers to the main entrance there is only one collectivo ??? There isn't one to be seen far and wide, we ask one of the many park employees, who are standing their ground here – the succinct answer: we have to wait ?? After half an hour a small tourist bus appears, we ask cautiously, whether he can take us with him ?? And, he can do that, however, we have to wait, until all passengers get their tickets, Drinks and snacks etc. have worried – the next quarter hour is over ?? On me, At some point the bus starts moving and we reach the main entrance. The tickets are checked again, entered into the next list, we get a bracelet around our wrist – done. Now we march quickly to the first temple – the routes here are correct, really far. These temples are impressive simply because of their huge height – they rise far above the tree lines into the sky, That must have been incredible work for the workers.
Jungle sounds accompany us all along the way, you can hear the howler monkeys, Parrots and other strange noises. Visitors get lost in the huge area, we feel completely alone in this mystical world. Once again we are thrilled, look forward to, that we can experience this with all our senses – an amazing experience !!
Around 5 hours and 13 Kilometers later we are back at our car, The boys were really nice and probably slept through our absence. Shortly afterwards we are at our parking space in El Remate, on the other side of Lake Peten Itza. A nice spot at a restaurant, we take the opportunity to do another one, delicious dinner. Unfortunately the night was quite loud – some dog complains by barking loudly for hours, The mopeds rattle along the street even at night and at dawn the first tourist buses drive towards Tikal.
The Falls
Tuesday, 05.03.2024: also, we definitely need a quiet place, Hans-Peter has caught the flu and needs to get some rest. This is how we drive 20 Kilometers of slopes into the hinterland to the Balneario “The Falls” -through access is once again super exciting, a cable and some branches hang so low, that I have to climb onto the roof and have trouble here, to lift everything above it. When we arrive, a small waterfall with a great pool awaits us, Here you can cool off really well and at night the fox and the hare say goodnight to each other – really good, to cure yourself. My husband gets a sore throat, Plagued by a cold and fever – Either it caught Corona or Dengue fever ?? We just take a rest day – hopefully that helps
It really is a wonderfully beautiful place, We cool off in the fresh water five times a day, this way you can endure the heat. A small path leads a little way into the jungle, the vegetation is simply wonderful, Hans-Peter is recovering properly.
Thursday 07.03.2024 On the way back I climb onto the roof as a precaution, to make the exit undamaged – worked !!! We shop in the small town of Poptun and find an ATM, which also works. However, all machines spit no more than 2.000 Quetzal (around 240,- €) out of, That's probably the upper limit here. Shortly behind the village we turn to Finca Ixobel, a pretty one, huge farm with parking spaces, Cabanas, Treehouses restaurant and lots of horses. The parking space is completely in the shade (actually good in the heat), neither our Starlink works nor we harvest electricity, There was also a power outage across the entire site. But my husband immediately sees a toucan, I'm too slow, can only hear him. You can cool off in a small natural pond, Explore the jungle in many ways. Unfortunately, I caught the infection from my husband, my throat hurts and I feel feverish. All right then, That was foreseeable.
Sweet River
Friday, 08.03.3024 – International Women's Day !!!!!!!! We drive the well-developed one, but a bit boring route further to Rio Dulce. To the left and right we see a green hilly landscape, Unfortunately there is also an incredible amount of rubbish on the side of the road. The villages and people seem very poor, it's still hard to believe, that people even live in these run-down and littered huts – this is so far away from our standard Western ideas ??
When we arrive in the village we try to get water, but the street is so narrow, that we can't possibly park here. Without having accomplished anything, we continue to Markus Vogel's intended campsite. We had contact with his brother Carlos a few days ago via WhatsApp and telephone, he gave us the tip, where to buy Starlink in Guatemala. The last ones 150 meters to the square are becoming increasingly narrow and steep, once again the cables are hanging suspiciously low. Actually, we're just about to turn around, A little boy comes running out and waves to us, that we should drive through the gate. Also, back up to the roof and through the gate with millimeter precision – I have the greatest respect for my husband's driving skills. Finally we are standing directly on the lakeshore, There is a great lakehouse next to us to chill out and enjoy the sunset, built on stilts in the water. In the evening we also get to know Markus personally, his parents emigrated to Guatemala at some point, the children were born here and went to the German school – So we can easily speak German to each other. This reminds us a bit of our friends from and in Colonia Tovar in Venezuela ??
The next morning we set off to visit the castle “Castello San Felipe”. The Castello is in a beautiful park with restaurants, Shops and swimming pool located, however, it is so small, that we almost walk past it. We were expecting a real castle, but this is really just a mini fortress. It originally dates from the year 1595, built to defend against English attacks, Dutch and Portuguese pirates, who were up to mischief here. In the year 1817 the facility was abandoned, between 1955 and 2001 The Castillo was completely renovated and rebuilt very nicely. After the cultural program we definitely need some refreshment and visit the restaurant recommended to us “The Rositas” – a nice excursion restaurant right on the water. The high prices promise delicious food – but we will be disappointed: the fish is fried to death, my garlic sauce tastes like semolina soup – but the beer is wonderfully cold and tastes good. In the evening we sit together with Markus and Veronika and get insider knowledge about the country – super exciting.
The night, however, is horror: it doesn't seem to cool down at all, We lie in bed drenched in sweat and can't sleep. So we decide, Definitely going on to the mountains soon.
On Sunday morning, Markus and Hans-Peter take another ride on the motorboat, Afterwards we say goodbye to the two of them and my husband maneuvers Henriette out of the narrow entrance again. We continue on Lake Izabal and turn off to the town of Mariscos to Playa Escondido. Actually a really nice place – actually ?? It's here (like almost everywhere) terribly run down, full and littered. When the last guests of the day left, It's going to be really nice here, In the dark you can no longer see all the dirt !!
Quirigua
Montag, the 11.03.2024, we continue towards Guatemala City, On the way we look at the small excavation site “Quirigua” an. The huge sculptures are extraordinary here, Stelae and zoomorphs – They are probably unique in their size. We like them very much, something different than the obligatory temples. Later we go shopping and find a parking space on the huge horse farm “The Laurels”. An impressive complex with stables, racetrack, Restaurant, Hotel and pool. The boys do an evening lap at the racetrack – perfect course !!
Today we almost have it 200 kilometers ahead of us, So we skip breakfast, Just strengthen ourselves with a coffee and we'll be there “on the road”. Once again we are horrified: There is not a meter to the right or left of the street, on which there are no plastic bottles, Pile up trash and empty chip bags – really bad !! The traffic is heavy, my driver has to be highly concentrated at all times. I am always impressed, how confidently he directs Henriette through the entire chaos. The last ones 3 Kilometers are very, very tight, our “big rig” cuts back lots of branches. But the bumpy slope was worth it, we reach the wonderfully beautiful Finca Escondida, park Henriette in a large cow pasture with a view 3 Volcanoes !! A perfect birthday location !!
Hidden Estate
13.03.2024 – today is birthday !! It welcomes us with full force and we can admire the three volcanoes from the window. There are many lovingly designed stations with hammocks on the pleasant morning walk, Rocking treehouses and miradors. Back at the campsite there is a delicious breakfast with scrambled eggs and even marble cake, a few curious cows also come by !! Of course there are a lot of phone calls today, the children, Grandchildren and friends congratulate you on your special day. In the evening my husband gives himself a little present: he can finally light up again and we sit outside for a long time by the warming campfire.
Because we have arranged to meet Carlos in Guatemala City on Friday, we can spend another day here at the finca. The next morning we walk around 5 Kilometer zum Fuentes del Pacaya, On the way to Pernau we pass through Tori, hidden waterfall. On the way we pass through lava fields, Carlos had told us, that it is here before 13 there had been an outbreak years ago. The lava probably did not flow out of the top of the crater, but simply came out of various holes at the bottom of the mountain ??
Of course we take advantage of the opportunity and take a long shower under the cool water. Unfortunately, after this refreshment we have to scramble back up the mountain, So after a few meters the cooling is gone again. All the same, it was definitely nice. !!
Guatemala-City
Friday, the 15.03.2024, We break up our tents here and plunge into the hustle and bustle of the city. Guatemala City is known for its incredible traffic volume – and we drive straight into the middle. It's really intense, the chicken buses, like the motorcyclists, all drive in Harakiri style, However, in the city center things only move at a snail's pace anyway, everything is jammed in the streets. My husband keeps track and confidently chauffeurs us through the chaos. Luckily, at some point we reach Carlos’ company premises, here we can do the next one 2 days stand. Carlos, who we have only known through Whatsapp so far, welcomes us warmly, shows us his great company, in which he produces delicious German sausages and baked goods. The products are sold in 14 own delicatessen shops throughout the city – we are impressed by the high standard ! Later we'll go for ice cream together, In the evening we are exhausted and crawl into bed early.
In the middle of the night we are woken up by the delicious smell of bread rolls – the bakery has started working. We also get something and are really happy about delicious pretzels, Rolls and snail pasta for breakfast. We stow the incorrectly delivered spare parts from our WhatsApp acquaintance Bernhard in Henriette's luggage compartment, so you can come back to Germany, Bernard is happy. Against 11.00 Carlos picks us up with his wife Sigrid, They want to show us a few highlights of the capital. The idea ultimately proves to be an impossible task, There are traffic jams in all the streets and everything is cordoned off just before the cathedral ?? There is nothing else left, than driving back at a snail's pace and going to a nice restaurant for lunch together. We come back to Henriette completely sated, In the evening we just manage to take a short digestive walk.
Antigua
On Sundays we escape the hustle and bustle 4 million metropolis and make our way to Antigua – another highlight of the country. We're actually looking forward to a tranquil one, quiet town – but we were completely wrong. Nice 3 Kilometers from the city we find ourselves in the next traffic jam, Hundreds of cars are parked on the right and left of the street ??? What's going on there? ??? Hans-Peter fights for every inch with Henriette, he doesn't allow himself to be disturbed by the hustle and bustle. Our path leads right through the narrowest streets – the others, All wider streets are closed. To 1,5 We finally stand in a parking lot for hours, where we can also spend the night.
When we asked, we also received a solution to the puzzle: Today there is a big procession here in honor of Jesus !! If I had paid more attention in religious education class, I would have known, that today the 5. Lent Sunday, also called Procession Sunday, is ! And of course this is celebrated very big here in Guatemala. In fact, nowhere else in the world is Easter celebrated as extensively and intensively as in Guatemala !!
Clear, After a quick coffee we jump into the fray and are really fascinated: so many people celebrate this festival, you don't even know, where to look everywhere at the same time. Lots of men dressed in purple are walking around, Women wear their colorful traditional costumes, There is something to eat everywhere, Handicrafts and plastic toys are available for purchase. The procession's sedan chairs, which weigh up to one ton, are carried by up to 80 worn by men – the carriers will all be 15 Exchanged minutes. Around 2.000 Porters are on duty during this hour-long procession – a really hard job !!
Even in this crowd, our boys still stand out, many want a photo of the two of them, dozens of children's hands stroke the fur. To 2 Hours later, all four of us are completely exhausted and make our way back to the car. It was really very impressive, but now our heads are spinning.
Acatenango/Fuego
The next morning the city seems transformed: everything goes as normal, people go to work, for shopping or sitting in the cafes. Nothing reminds us of the hustle and bustle of yesterday !! Antigua is truly a gem, We will definitely come there again. We don't have time today, We quickly get some cash and a few bottles of water, Then we continue to the small mountain village of San Jose Calderas. We get through on the way (dusty) Coffee plantations, There are armed men everywhere, that protect the systems ?? At the ASOAVA agency, a family business run by indigenous people, we have booked the tour to Acatenango for tomorrow. To do this, we first have to dig out our warm clothes such as hats and gloves from the storage boxes in the luggage compartment – We've had that for now 1,5 No longer used for years. Later a short tour of the village, There seems to be a celebration here today too, people dance in the street, there are stalls, Carousels and shooting galleries !! We take the chance and get something for dinner at one of the stalls, After all, we need to strengthen ourselves for tomorrow's hike !!
19.03.2024: let's go to the volcano !! We are very happy, that it starts now, are of course also excited, whether and how we can do it ??? Punctual as we Germans are, we appear at 8.00 p.m. at our tour provider ASOAVA on the farm. A few young people are walking around, they explain to us, that they work here as volunteers and that we would have to wait a little longer. At some point we get a Guatemalan breakfast, delicious with beans, Guacamole, Fried egg, fried bananas and coffee !! Shortly afterwards, more people arrive, mostly French, but also an Indian, Taiwanese and German are there. Everyone is much younger (under 30 !) as we, but totally nice. At some point our group will be there 14 people completely, Everyone has had breakfast and has their belongings together – it can start. There is a minibus in front of the house, who is supposed to drive us to the starting point. It's obvious, that we don't all fit in there, including our luggage and dogs – we discuss a bit more ?? Alright, an old pickup truck is brought from the neighboring property, We're all sitting on the loading area and can start. Arrived at the starting point 2.235 m (now it is already 9.30 clock) there is a lot of activity: Crowds of people move equipped with backpacks, Walking up the mountain with sticks and a good mood.
And it works very well, very steep uphill – We start sweating very quickly. Our 3 Leaders always take breaks, they pay a lot of attention to it, that everyone comes along. Despite our advanced age, we are bravely staying in the middle of the field, Frodo and Quappo run obediently next to us. Everyone in the troop loves our furry friends, Of course that makes things easy for us. There are even small refreshment stands at the next breaks, the waters, Offer beer and snacks – We wouldn't have had to carry so many bottles with us. On me, Next time we'll know !! Against 13.00 There is a lunch break at p.m, our tour provider gave us a delicious package of pasta, Vegetables, Packed mini meatballs and melon – it tastes great.
The air is becoming thinner, legs heavier, the speed is getting slower, the small breaks are increasing. Our leader motivates us, soon we would have made it !! In fact, we are reaching a point, where it then becomes a little flatter. However, we still haven't seen the volcano yet ?? All the same, we march on bravely, we finally see the first little huts. Our camp is at the highest, So one last climb !! Against 15.00 o'clock we did it, can open our tent 3.650 m and now also see the volcano. No 10 Minutes later there was an outcry from the group: A huge column of smoke comes from the top of the Fuego, it's so impressive. Part of our group does another round, but since the weather isn't that great, we stay behind in the camp with the rest of the team. The clouds move up from the valley very quickly and we can no longer see the Fuego at all. We rest a bit in the tent, Then there is a cozy round around the campfire. Hans-Peter is in his element as a fire master, Soon we'll all be toasty warm. Suddenly the next outcry: the Fuego spits, Now you can also see the red lava oozing out of the top. Everyone is watching this spectacle with open eyes and ears – the madness. The clouds have completely cleared away, the sky is clear and so can we all 20 Admire this spectacle for minutes.
The part of our group, which went further, only comes towards 21.00 Clock completely exhausted (and also a bit frustrated) back, They couldn't see anything because of the clouds, are completely cold and hungry. Our cook makes dinner quickly (Reis, Beans, Mashed potatoes and tacos), plus hot chocolate and later a glass of rum !! Dead tired, everyone gradually crawls into their sleeping bags. Frodo and Quappo snuggle up close to us in the tent- so we have 2 perfect heating pad, which give off nice heat. Every now and then we are woken up by the violent bang of an eruption – Goosebumps feeling !!!!
One 4.00 I hear our guides walking around, I quickly put on my warm pants, Jacket, Gloves and hat on – We want to go all the way up to the top of Fuego at sunrise. The dogs both come with us, Hans-Peter has pain in his knee and therefore stays in the tent. A short time later, Frodo can no longer be seen – He must have sniffed around and can't find me anymore ??
He's not stupid, runs back and cuddles with his master for another hour. The climb is really hard, We always have to take short breaks to breathe deeply. Of course, there are many more groups on the way to the summit, We string the glowing headlamps together with strings of pearls. When we get to the top it's already a little bit light, We sit down on the warm lava stone and reverently marvel at this beautiful sight: On the left the sun slowly climbs out from behind the mountain, On the right, the Fuego keeps spewing thick water , black clouds of smoke come out – the madness !
An hour later the leaders call for departure (otherwise we would probably still be sitting up there). The descent is very easy and quick – we happily hop down the steep slope on the loose lava scree. Now there is a small breakfast, everything is packed together, the last photos taken. Our guide gives the signal to descend, We follow him with a heavy heart. Of course it's much easier to go down, but sometimes it is very slippery and steep, so that almost everyone in the group ends up on their butt. My husband once twisted his knee very badly, it hurts and the knee swells to twice its size within minutes.
We all made it happily, As a reward, there is a delicious iced coffee and a commemorative hat at the last stand. When you arrive at the village at lunchtime, the borrowed items are returned, You say goodbye to everyone and the backpacks are stowed back in the Henriette.
Antigua
Shortly afterwards we drive it 20 Kilometers back to Antigua and park in the free parking lot at the tourist police. After a long time, our shower is used: the hot water feels incredibly good, The lava dust is also washed away. We are already feeling better again !! All the laundry is packed into a large sack and I take it all to the nearest Lavanderia. The nice lady is happy about the large order, I can pick everything up again tomorrow. While strolling through the city in the evening, we were once again enchanted by this wonderfully beautiful city – every little street is pretty, everything is beautifully prepared, the buildings, some of which are dilapidated, fit in harmoniously. Of course, cooking is not possible here, there are so many possibilities, to buy something delicious.
Thursday, 21.03.2024: The water ran so badly when I showered yesterday – why are we so crooked? ??? After breakfast this question is clarified: we have a flat tire 🙁
Such a crap, We must have hit a nail/screw somewhere ?? Now just stay calm, We have all the time in the world. My husband gets to work, got the jack and shortly afterwards we discovered the culprit: it's actually a thick screw, which has eaten through the coat. Since we are with the police, I ask the nice officials, whether there is a tire dealer near here. They explain to me, that these workshops are called Pinchazo and there is one just around the corner. Also, I walk off to the store, However, I am standing in front of closed doors ?? Even when I knock, no door opens – so on to the next one !! I find the next Pinchazo 600 m further, he would repair the tire, but we would have to bring him over ?? Mm, how should we do that ?? Back in our parking lot, I report the problem to the nice police officer and he promises, that he will help us. He comes back later and explains to us, that no mechanic can come by, but he can take the tire away with the police pickup truck tomorrow. Incomprehensible: the police, your friend and helper !!!
On Friday we wait in vain for the pickup all day, in the evening my uniformed friend explains to me, that there were too few men on duty today, They wouldn't be able to do it until tomorrow. It's all no problem, we look at other corners of this town, eat at the market and spend a nice evening with our German neighbors Merle and Max. The two young people from Bremen come from the south, So they drive the Panamericana in the other direction, so there is a lot to tell.
23.03.2024 – versus 8.30 Clock actually stops 2 Police officers in front of our car and loaded the broken tire onto their pickup truck. Hans-Peter goes with them, half an hour later the tire is repaired – for the equivalent of 6,– € !!!! Of course the police officers get a tip, We are really excited about this willingness to help. Everything is stowed away again, the repaired tire is now our spare tire, In any case, we can continue our journey without any worries. However, we definitely want tomorrow's spectacle “Palm Sunday” witness here, So we stay here for two more nights. Our sore muscles allow it, that today we are marching up to Cerro del Crux, a small hill, from which you have a beautiful view of the city. In the evening, more new dishes are tried out at the stalls, the burritos taste super delicious, The other things don't really excite everyone.
Palm Sunday: We make our way to the center early: Crowds of people crowd through the cordoned off streets, Carpets of flowers are laid out on the cobblestones everywhere, the first processions wind their way through the streets. In some cases there is no way through anymore, it is really very, very impressive. After good 3 We all need a break for hours – We sit in the sun in front of the car, The dogs are sleeping soundly right away.
The flower carpets are designed with a lot of dedication, lots of people are working on it – only to be overrun by the procession shortly afterwards ?? And, that has a meaning: it is meant to symbolize the transience of life; nothing lasts forever !
The processions last throughout the day, when they come through the street, there is absolutely no way through anymore. Of course it is also incredibly loud here, Salespeople try to outdo each other, Brass bands do their best, Children loudly spin their wooden rattles – our ears are full of noise !!
Recovered from the break, we venture back into the fray in the evening – the processions are still going on. A huge one, Heavy wooden sculpture is carried swaying through the streets by strong men, behind them the brass band marches – fascinating. With difficulty we make it through the hustle and bustle to the La Merced Convent, The best food stalls were here. Today we have a delicious roll, topped with avocado, Meat, Tomatoes and hot sauce, later hand-cut fries and finally sweet choux pastry balls in sugar water – we feel pleasantly full !
Panajachel, Lake Atitlan
On Mondays, city life is enough for us, we actually want to move on – However, we are still parked. Also, ask the nice police officers again, but they can't help us – They don't know either, who owns the cars, who parked in front of us. Alright, maybe we can get out through another gap ?? There is only one Brazilian camper here – we ask him, to drive away briefly – and we'll make it onto the road. We slowly make our way through the crowded streets, Then we wind our way along the most winding roads towards Lake Atitlan. On the way we have to negotiate a super steep alley in Pezon, then another river crossing – a really eventful one, very nice route. When we arrive in Panajachel we find space on a large meadow in front of a hotel, directly on the lake and occupied by many other campers. We meet old friends like Kaktuskompass and MakiaufReisen, In the evening a truck with a Spanish license plate joins us next to us – they are also Germans.
On Tuesdays we take it easy, enjoy the beautiful panorama of the three volcanoes (you can only see them in the morning, around midday they disappear into the haze), swim in the lake and set off to explore Pana. There is a huge hustle and bustle in the town, Tourists from all over the world come to meet us. The abundance of shops restaurants, Hotels, Bars, Tour providers and language schools are unbelievable, you really wonder, how they can all survive here.
Wednesday, the 27.03.2024 – we start early, to take a public boat to the next town. Another very special experience: the boats are just leaving, when they are completely full, There are no timetables here. Just like in the chicken buses, everything is transported on these boats: Beer crates, huge baskets with all sorts of goods, Backpacks, Suitcase, Guitars – everything is stacked on the roof. At some point the last place will be occupied, we're leaving. Around the next corner the boat stops at a small jetty, 4 Soldiers come up and check us. After some palaver it becomes clear, there are too many people on the boat ?? Also, another boat comes along, We first switch to the police boat, then to the new one, larger nutshell. Frodo and Quappo manage it with difficulty, They don't find the whole thing that exciting anyway ?? Gut, we drive on, On the next jetties, more and more people get on the boat – I believe, We are already overcrowded again. All the same, we make it to our goal: Saint Mark, a smaller one, but also a very touristy village.
The whole lake is surrounded by high mountains or. The volcano, there is no shore. The houses cling to the slopes, The steep access roads feel like they are only possible for motorcycles. This all looks really pretty, but a bit impractical to live with. We stroll through the narrow streets of San Marcos, There are hundreds of shops here too, Cafes, Bars …. There are also many offers for massages, Yoga, Meditation, vegane Restaurants – this seems to be a real dropout village. A short walk to the Mirador, Then we head back to the pier and chug back on the next boat – done !
Our place is being upgraded today: 3 Gallo trucks are on the meadow, lots of tents are set up – there is the Easter celebration ????
An employee asks us, to move a few meters, our place will be converted into the festival area. Our new neighbors are Nadine and Sami, two young people from Switzerland, with whom we get along well. We work all day long, Tents up- and dismantled again, Stage installed, Billboards put up – it seems, to give a huge party. We go on another shopping trip through the overcrowded town, Hans-Peter gets a pair of Guatemalan chill pants, because it just gets really cold here in the evenings. During dinner, the alarm system of a parked car suddenly goes off – and it just won't stop. Nobody feels responsible here, This siren is definitely annoying 3 for hours ??
Chichicastenango
Good Friday, the 29.03.2024 – we choose, not to stay until the festival, but drive 40 Kilometers further to the town of Chichicastenango. The route here is indescribable: It's incredibly steep up the mountain, on the other side it goes down just as steeply. Processions take place everywhere in the villages, You can see carpets of flowers on every street.
Driving through the city center will be really exciting again: Because of the processions, important thoroughfares here are already closed and we are guided through a tangle of narrow streets, steep alleys. Hans-Peter masters it brilliantly again, if I had to drive, I would just leave the car in the middle of the street and continue on foot !! In the end we reach the small one, very nice campsite and fortify ourselves with breakfast.
In the afternoon we watch the hustle and bustle in the city, visit the colorful cemetery and the market. There are processions everywhere, Crowds of people crowd into the 2 small churches. Exceptionally, many shops are closed today, That's really an absolute rarity here. Only a few stalls are open at the market today, we stock up on fresh vegetables (the biggest carrots, that I have ever seen) and make our way home.
In fact, here we are 2.060 m height – really hot during the day, It cools down quickly in the evening – perfect for sleeping !!
On Saturdays we don't go to the center until the afternoon and are amazed at the hustle and bustle. There is bossing everywhere, Stands are set up, every cookie is used. Some stands are already finished, we discover a beautiful patchwork blanket, which we become one (definitely for us) purchase at a very reasonable price. The food stalls are working at peak activity, the dealers have to be taken care of. Back at our campsite we enjoy the peace and quiet, have a bag of laundry washed and can – you can't believe it – take a warm shower again after a long time !!
Sunday, 31.03.2024 – market day !! In the morning we hear strange sounds in our place – What is that ?? We look around curiously, then we see, that 3 Locals hold a Mayan ceremony – with fire, Incantations and dance – very mysterious ??
After breakfast we head out into the crowd – the city has really changed completely, All the alleys and streets in the center are occupied by market stalls – Good thing we didn't arrive today, There is absolutely no way through here anymore.
You can get everything here – fruit, Meat, Vegetables, Tacos, Set the table, Souvenirs, BH's, Tupperdosen, toys, Tool ………… the offer is overwhelming. Of course it's also incredibly loud, everyone transcends everyone, In addition, a music band with huge amplifiers plays in the middle of the church square.
Of course, what I like best are the stalls with the colorful Guatemalan clothing – colorful, glittering blouses, black skirts and beautifully embroidered belts. I like (fast) anything and it is not possible, Nothing to buy here. So colorful tablecloths are bought for loved ones at home, with full bags it goes on 3 Hours back to our oasis. The dogs are – just like us – totally overstimulated and sleeping for the rest of the day.
Quetzaltenango
Actually, we are looking for a quiet place after all the hustle and bustle, relaxed parking space in the countryside – However, this turns out to be an impossible wish. On the further, One village follows the next on a really beautiful serpentine route, it is incredibly densely populated. We only make it through the small town of Totonicapan with great difficulty, Once again the main street is closed for some reason and we struggle through the narrowest streets. Shortly afterwards we also have to go through Quetzaltenango, the second largest city in Guatemala. Like everywhere there is endless traffic, Traffic jams, One-way streets and then that: a passage that is too low makes it impossible for us to continue our journey, It goes back through the narrowest side streets !!! At some point we make it out and reach our destination after a steep climb, in Cerro Quemado.
We are outside the city and actually in a dead end – But here too, one truck after the next comes by nonstop. In the evening another dog walk on Cerro Quemada – a religious hill, where Mayan ceremonies also take place. The many flower-decorated fireplaces show, that there has been a lot going on here in the last few days ??
Huehuetenango
We continue north, We actually drive on the all day “Pan American”. One truck drives behind the next, We barely overtook anyone, we'll be slowed down again by the next one. Unfortunately, our intended location is behind the city again, d.h. we have to struggle through city traffic again. We find our parking space by a small stream – unfortunately only one parking space, You can't get to the meadow anymore ?? We are on a long walk along the stream, like so often, horrified: the garbage is just so disgusting – and no one seems to mind.
Come later 3 Locals over, they take photos, gibberish a bit and give us the tip, that we should definitely go to Todos Santos in the mountains. OK, that sounds pretty nice, The further route will then be re-planned.
All Saints
Wednesday, the 03.04.2024, Henriette has to work hard – it goes steeply uphill to 3.300 m. We set up camp in a small hiking parking lot, run the nice one “Maceta ecological trail” and retire early to the living room – It's pretty cold up here !!!
A few locals walk by in the parking lot, they drink, dance, listen to loud music – half an hour later they drive on !!
We think about it the next morning too, which border we want to cross back to Mexico. After some consideration we decide on the border i La Mesilla, To do this, however, we have to drive back the route and wind our way through the middle of the city of Huehuetenango again. Alright, We already know our way around and manage to get out of the crowd quite easily. The rest of the route takes us through the middle of the highlands, one village after another, it is gray, dusty and dirty and it is incredibly densely populated. The coffee bags are ready to be transported everywhere, interesting to see, where our morning pick-me-up actually comes from.
However, our border crossing will be very interesting and exciting: in the small village “The Mesilla” There is one stall after the other over a kilometer length – There is no border visible at all ?? Suddenly a sign above us: “Welcome to Mexico” ????????? A few bollards block the street, otherwise no one cares about us. We just get out and see a small shed, with the sign Frontera ?? All right then, we try our luck. A young Guatemalan official checks our passports and stamps the TIP for Henriette. In the next wooden stall we get the exit stamp for Guatemala – complete !!!! a few meters further on the Mexican side the same picture: There is a stall closest to the right and left of the street, no control, no officials ??? At some point we are stopped for the usual spraying of the vehicle – This is always mandatory in Mexico. The sprayer enlightens us – the border station only arrives in 4 kilometers distance. OK, we're on our way. Here too, the building can hardly be recognized as a border, but we are correct. To 10 After waiting a few minutes, the responsible officer appears. He looks at our passports for a long time, asks, from where, where etc. , shakes his head, considered ??? After being beaten 10 He then explains to us for a few minutes, that he cannot let us enter, because there were blockages on the other roads and that was too dangerous ????? Oh Gott, what's that about ??? We discuss our options with him, it means, We should go back to Guatemala and cross another border ?? We drive it quite annoyed 4 Kilometers back and discuss with the Guatemalan border official: no, Of course she can't let us into the country anymore, We clocked out and deleted the TIP ?? Only after 3 We can enter Guatemala again in a few months – yes ???????????
Also, back to the Mexican border, Discussions with the officer, At some point he graciously gives us the entry stamp and we can move on. It is now 17.00 o'clock and we simply leave Henriette in the nearest gas station parking lot – enough excitement for today. In the evening we try to find out, what the road blockades are all about – but can't get much out of it. Apparently it's about disputes between the cartels ??
Despite all the panic, we sleep well !!
