Neujahr im Grutas de Rancho Nuevo Ecotourism Park
In the Grutas de Rancho Nuevo Ecotourism Park (knapp 10 Kilometers behind San Cristobal) let's spend New Year's Eve. When we arrive, there is a lot of activity, but as dusk falls the last vehicles disappear. So we spend a very quiet New Year's Eve with good food, Play and of course a glass of champagne. There's banging all evening long, Things really get going at midnight, There is heavy banging all around, from a distance we see the fireworks over the city. Luckily our dogs are not impressed. Clear, the bottle of champagne is still drunk empty, then we sleep in heavenly peace. Unfortunately, sleeping in doesn't work, early on 6.30 We hear music in the distance, Immediately afterwards the first car engines hum. Against 8.00 The first guests line up right next to us, 10 People get out of the pickup and the first thing they do is turn on the grill. During our morning walk shortly afterwards, the park was already well filled, More and more cars stream through the entrance gate. It's a real Mexican amusement park: there are plenty of picnic tables with grills, Ride horses, Ziplines, Children's playgrounds, Restaurants and souvenir shops. We are really impressed, how many people come here !!! Without further ado, we decide, to spend today here and look at the hustle and bustle. That was a very good decision: At lunchtime we get food from our neighbors, later a delicious coffee from the other neighbors. We find out in conversation, that they own a coffee plantation further south and we are invited, to visit them there and help with the coffee harvest. Of course, a visit to the plantation is immediately planned into our itinerary.
Our dogs are once again the stars of the evening round in the park – a few times they have to be used for photo shoots. Very funny: we look with fascination at the traditional costumes and faces of the indigenous people, On the other hand, they look just as fascinated at us and our huge dogs – a win-win situation 🙂 It takes hours in the evening, until all vehicles have left the park, it really felt like millions !!
The next morning we are alone with the garbage collectors, everything is cleaned immaculately, really great. We have decided, to drive back a few kilometers, to see the two towns of Chamula and Zinacantan. Both are inhabited by the Tzotziles, these are direct descendants of the Mayans. They have their own language (99% of the population speaks this language, slightly less than half speak Spanish), a very own style of clothing and very special religious practices. This can be seen particularly well inside the Church of San Juan: From the outside it looks like any other church in Mexico, but when you enter it, you find yourself in a very strange world. There are no benches, no organ and no priest. Hundreds of candles burn for this purpose, Glass boxes with saints hang on the walls, people sit on the floor in small groups, which is lined with pine needles. Shamans help, To drive away illnesses and evil spirits. To establish contact with the saints, Cola is drunk these days. It has the purpose, that you have to burp and evil spirits escape from your body. These evil spirits gather in a chicken, which is sacrificed after the ceremony. A very special mixture of Mayan religions with Christianity – really a total stranger to us, incomprehensible world. There is an absolute ban on photography in the church, Of course we stick to that.
In the next town of Zinacantan we just look at the church, The place is otherwise not very inviting. Here, too, the church is noticeably kitschy, colorfully and flashingly decorated, Balloons and sparkling fairy lights decorate the interior. After this journey into another world, we pass through San Cristobal again and spend the night in Parque Arcotete. This park is surprisingly beautiful, we are standing by a small stream, there is a cave, which you can visit, plus zip lines, palapas, Rock, boats, Sales stands and of course some restaurants.
The Chiflon
03.01.2024: We start the day slowly, since we are only around today 100 We have kilometers of travel ahead of us, Let's waste the morning away. What we didn't expect, was the condition of the road – at 300 m a topez protrudes from the asphalt. So we almost need it 4 Hours until we arrive “The Chiflon” arrive. In the darkness we treat ourselves to a refreshing swim in the turquoise water, the rest is postponed until the next day.
For once we get up early, as we want to experience the hike to the waterfalls alone if possible. The plan works, we are the only ones, the the round 900 Climb steps to the highest point. Luckily, the park is dog-friendly, ours are allowed to do so 2 Guys come with me this time. The waterfall is incredibly beautiful, For me it is definitely in the top five !!! The color of the water is particularly unique – a really cheesy one, crystal clear turquoise blue. You can swim further down – a perfect refreshment after the sweaty march. As we walk down the day visitors stream towards us, So getting up early was worth it.
We leave at lunchtime 20 Kilometers further to the Cenote Chucumaltik. A cenote is a natural well in a limestone rock, which was caused by the collapse of the ceiling of one or more caverns. Chucumaltik is an above-ground cenote, At first glance it looks like a normal lake. You only see it when you look closer, that it goes straight downhill from the edge. The water is incredibly clear, you can see all the way to the ground. And the cenote is huge: around 200 m diameter and 70 m deep !! Clear, that we have to swim again here. We ask, whether we can stay here in the parking lot overnight – and, we can. One 17.00 the entrance will be closed, so we are all alone here, in a heavenly calm !
Before breakfast we jump into the beautiful water, let the drone fly over the landscape and enjoy the entire lake to ourselves. Our chatter gives us grief: He hit something in the ball of his foot a few days ago, we were able to remove a few splinters, but since today he has been limping really badly. Foot bath, Mortgage, Zugsalbe – the whole program is started, Unfortunately it doesn't get any better. Also, no big hike today – we drive 3 Kilometers further to the village of Uninajab – a swimming pool village. Apparently water runs from a spring here day and night, every house has a large pool and in the middle of the town there are around 20 different sized swimming pools, those of day guests are converted for an entrance fee of 1,25 € can be used. We stand in the large parking lot, unfortunately right next to the usual town sign, where everyone has to take a photo. So we barely drink our coffee, The first curious people are already arriving, admire Henriette, the dogs and us. Later a young woman visits us, who would like to invite us to dinner the next day. It turns out in conversation, that she is a veterinarian – what a divine providence. We immediately arrange an appointment with her for the next day !!!
06.01.2024 – Three Magi, This day is of course also an important holiday here. In the morning we can between 20 Choose different pools, except the employees, who rake the ground, there is no one in the park yet. Because the water flows through here constantly, it is super clean and refreshing. Shortly afterwards the first people arrive, We pack our belongings and drive back to Comitan. A quick trip to Walmart, Then we want to meet Lucy, the veterinarian, meet. It gets a bit confusing: Lucy tells us, that we couldn't drive our huge car to her practice. So we agree on a meeting point, We struggle through the middle of the city on a road that is forbidden for trucks, will be short (!) stopped by the police and actually meet us at the agreed street corner. Lucy drives up – but not in practice, but to her parents' village, 25 km from the city. We are already expected at our parents' house: the whole family has gathered, to eat with us. Typical of Mexico: a stack of plastic plates, Plastic dishes and plastic cups are placed on the table, then there is spaghetti, fried chicken meat, Salat, sauces, Avocados and a huge stack of tacos !! We communicate in Spanish, English and hands and feet – more right than bad – it's very funny. Things get exciting after dinner: a great Rosca de Reyes, a sweet bread with jelly on top, comes to the table. There are little Jesus figures hidden in the dough, everyone who finds one of the characters in their piece, must for the other tamales (small dough balls made from corn flour, filled with meat or cheese, wrapped in plant leaves) prepare. The excitement is great, the little niece gets to cut the cake first, then everyone takes their turn in turn. Several small figures of Jesus appear, so there will be enough tamales to eat the next day.
Later we walk together into the nearby pine forest, Lucy proudly shows us, everything belongs to her family. Somehow Lucy seems to have forgotten, why we are actually there – Quappo ????? Oh yes, Now we have to discuss and think about it, how we do this best. Half an hour later we are informed: We should go to the practice with Henriette, that would be the best place for her to treat Quappo. Lucy, her nephew Osvaldo and little niece are traveling with us, it's almost dark, until we reach the practice in the narrow streets. Now our little one is being examined, he gets 2 Injections and a bandage administered. We can sleep in front of the house, We are really tired now.
Lagunas de Montebello Nationalpark
On Sundays, Quappo feels a lot better, he's just limping a little. After saying goodbye to Lucy, we continue towards Lagunas de Montebello National Park. We wanted to see the ruins of Chikuntic on the way – But no dogs are allowed here, so we forego this excavation. When we arrived at the park we were immediately thrilled: there are 59 Lakes of all sizes and all colors – of turquoise, blue to green. Because we're early, Let's take the hiking trail straight away “The Perol” before: a great path through a pine/rainforest with lots of orchids and a great view of the small island in Lago Pojoj. Quappo can run again without any problems on the soft ground – we are very happy !
Back from the tour we drive a little further to the large Lake Tziscao to a great parking space – in the middle of the green meadow, the lakeshore only 15 m away. It gets really cold here in the evenings, During the day we have the best swimming weather 26 City.
It becomes clear pretty quickly, that we will definitely stay here another night, it's just perfect here. We can sleep in on Mondays (:)), the washing machine can work, in the afternoon a walk to Guatemala, in between swim in the crystal clear water.
You can simply walk across the border here, without control !! Things just can't go on in Guatemala, There is no road connection for the small village. There are lots of souvenir stalls with very pretty, colorful handicrafts – another small purse is added to my collection 🙂
We also spend Tuesday in this pretty place, it's wonderful, in the clear, to swim in the cool lake, In the afternoon we go again to Guatemala. The children recognize us from afar and shout happily: “Fuck, Fuck” – somehow the Spaniards find it very difficult, How to pronounce the name Frodo correctly. All the same, We are once again known as colorful dogs, Frodo and Quappo calmly endure all the petting. It gets cool quite quickly in the evening, so we make ourselves comfortable in the living room.
The Clouds
Wednesday, the 10.01.2024 – we are still storing water, then we say goodbye to the dream place. Let's move on – always along the border with Guatemala – to the next waterfall (who would have thought ?). After one 12 We reach the small ecotouristico along a kilometer-long jogging track. These beautiful cascades are called Las Nubes, surrounded by a beautiful rainforest.
There is a nice little hiking trail through the jungle with a wonderful mirador, Of course we have to climb it straight away. In the evening we sit in front of the car and listen to the birds chirping.
The next morning we hiked again to the Mirador under bright skies – and lo and behold, now we even discover 2 Faultiere !!
So, have a quick breakfast, a short bath (cautious, before the cases !!), then move on to the next event. The route leads through a wonderfully green jungle, thanks to the millions of topes we need for them 100 Kilometers over again 3 hours. Even in the furthest place, one pothole after another, To be on the safe side, they were all still there 100 m these annoying “Reducers” installed – we have no understanding of it 🙁
Agra Reformria
Our daily goal today: Reforma Agraria or. The Macaws. The red macaws are called Las Guacamayas, who are supposed to live here. In fact, we can already see on the way there 2 beautiful specimens, They fly up in front of our eyes in colorful rainbow colors. There is a small meadow in the village itself, where we can park easily. As we walk around the village we spot some spider monkeys (Spider Monkey), who frolic in the trees. One immediately throws a branch at me – Thank God Frodo pulls me away at that moment, So I didn't get a bump on my head. We decide in the evening, to eat in the nice restaurant on the river bank, Apart from us, there is only one other table occupied. The waiter explains to us immediately, that we weren't allowed to stay here with the dogs and placed us below the terrace on uncomfortable wooden blocks under a palapa. On me, He now has to forego the tip, He brought this on himself. The food here is also typically Mexican: lots of tacos, chicken meat or. Rindfleisch, Bean paste and the most important thing: hot sauce !!! We're just not really impressed with Mexican cuisine – or we haven't found the right restaurants yet ???? Back at the car we enjoy hundreds of fireflies, that are floating around in our meadow. In the distance you can hear the incredibly loud roar of the howler monkeys – We already had plans with them 8 Had contact in Argentina for years. At first we couldn't identify this noise, we found out later, that they were howler monkeys – lt. Google the second loudest animals in the world !!! We can completely agree with that, you can hear these animals for miles.
During the morning walk we discovered another beautiful red/colorful macaw, the animals are super pretty and incredibly loud. We sit in front of Henriette for the rest of the day, listen to the sounds, write the website and plan the next steps.
On Saturday morning we actually discovered it during the morning round 2 Howler monkeys, who hid high up in the trees. At the roar, that you can hear for miles, you actually expect one 800 kg of monkeys – but that is not the case, the animals aren't that big. In any case, we were happy, to get a copy in front of the lens.
Today we want to move on, are currently packing, Then another Overlander with a Swiss license plate drove into our place. They are Maria and Bernhard, they already are 5 Been traveling in South America for years, but definitely want to go there again – because it is just so beautiful there. Of course we chat with the friendly Swiss people, are quick and easy 2 Hours over. Now we have to hurry, at least we still have 130 kilometers ahead of us – and you never know here, how long it will take. Hans-Peter really puts his foot down at the end, Henriette is running at full speed, So we make it to the Cascadas de Golondrinas just before dark. Shortly before the finish we will be from 5 They were stopped by highly armed police officers, it would be too dark, to spend the night at the waterfalls, It would be safer right next to them. no, We don't feel like doing that, After a bit of discussion they let us through. However, one demands 100 Pesos from us – I thought, that would be entry, but as it turns out, It was just for the money for the Saturday evening beer 🙂 We almost have to laugh about it, the police are just super corrupt here.
Cascades Robert Barrios
Here too we sleep in heavenly peace, Nothing can be heard far and wide. The next morning we explore the waterfalls and are very pleasantly surprised – they are really beautiful, it's just the ambience around it (typically Mexican) run down. It's still too cool to swim, so we continue. We actually wanted to visit the Yaxchilan archaeological site, but according to. According to the entries on iOverlander and Google, the systems are blocked until further notice due to problems with the cartel. There are repeated police roadblocks along the route, Barriers with sandbags were installed everywhere, the presence of uniformed personnel is very high – So there seemed to be real problems here ?? So we drive past the excavation site to the next waterfall, Roberto Barrios – a recommendation from Katrina, our fellow camper in Chuparosa. That was actually a good tip, there is a perfect parking space on the meadow, 100 m away from the massive ones, turquoise waterfalls. It's great to swim and swim here 17.00 We have the place all to ourselves – splendid.
Palenque
Montag, the 15.01 – the next highlight is coming up, we want to look at the ancient Mayan site of Palenque. Many had warned us, that it should be extremely crowded and touristy, that's how we do it (for our conditions) set off quite early. Almost an hour later we are at the ticket counter, I get everything immediately, We can drive and park with Henriette directly in front of the entrance. Also, everything is very easy and relaxed, there are very few tourists around. We look at the facility together, which is very impressive due to its location in the middle of the jungle. So far only the ancient Mayan city has been mentioned 10% unearthed, most of it is overgrown with greenery. The Mayan metropolis had its heyday between 6. and 9. century, the last mention dates from 814 n Chr. Palenque appears to have been one of the first major centers of the classical period, which fell victim to the general collapse of the Maya in the southern lowlands. The reasons for this collapse have not yet been clarified.
Very impressed, we first go into town to do some shopping, then think about it, where we could go. It's too late for today's next planned destination, It's too early to spend the night in the parking lot ?? Also, short vote – we drive back to our beautiful place in Roberto Barrio, refresh ourselves in the waterfall and enjoy a second restful night.
A morning swim under the waterfall, Breakfast and off we go towards the Yucatan. The landscape changes: everything is flat, tropical and very humid ! To the right and left of the road, huge palm oil fields alternate with huge pasture areas, where zebu cattle with large rabbit ears graze, ab. This part of Mexico is not very pleasant, It's just a matter of driving through. On the way we find a parking space next to the main road on the edge of the village by a small river, perfect for one night. The evening tour through the village is very informative: Hundreds of dogs, chickens, Either, Create, Goats, Turkeys and pigs run through the gardens and houses, People everywhere are sitting on plastic chairs in front of their huts. It is eaten, drank, chatted and waved in a friendly manner. Some are tinkering with their houses or cars, but nothing ever seems to get done – This may also be due to the humid climate here. The tropical climate causes cracks and holes, before the roof is on the house – So you live here in a constant makeshift situation. It's hard for us to imagine, that you in these “Dwellings” can even live with a family, There are also an incredible number of small children and babies here.
Caribbean beach
Today is Wednesday again, we continue to the Caribbean !! When we get there we find a nice one, small campsite right on the beach, in the middle of a palm grove. And the best: We are all alone here on the square. In the evening there is a big beach session with the boys – Quappo loves the soft ground, he hardly limps anymore. About two kilometers away we discover a huge one, abandoned hotel complex – just a lone Mexican man working on a palapa. To my question, whether everything is closed here, he replies: no, the restaurant would be open ??? Very mysterious, I'll have to investigate right away: The system is probably a Corona victim, since 2019 everything is closed and is slowly falling into disrepair. The complex will probably be in 500 Discovered years ago and the researchers have to puzzle like the Mayans, why the place was abandoned ??
Thursday, the 18.01.2024 – We like it so much here, that we extend a day. That leaves enough time, to go for a walk, to do a few units of Duolingo, to read, Writing a website and baking bread. The sun keeps peeking out from between the clouds, it can be endured very well.
Edzna
After the 2 Culture is on the agenda today for lazy days !! We'll look at each other “Edzna” an, a Mayan archaeological site (who would have thought:)). When we arrive at the parking lot, there are only people standing 2 more vehicles here, there is almost nothing going on. We enter the site without any great expectations and are immediately impressed by the facility. We were impressed by the huge building complex with the five-story palace pyramid, a truly monumental building, which is very well preserved. The dimensions of the former main square are gigantic, we read up, that in this city in the period of 400 until 1.000 n. Chr. around 70.000 People are said to have lived here. There was a centralized system of government here, which was legitimized by the relationship of those in power with the gods. The little detour here was definitely worth it.
Campeche
In the afternoon we finally reach the nice one, former pirate town of Campeche. There is a perfect parking space on the Malecon, we stand (first off) all alone in the large parking lot. We reach the city center in half an hour on the beautifully landscaped beach promenade. The pretty ones appear from a distance, Colorfully painted colonial houses are very picturesque, If you take a closer look, you can see a lot of dilapidated buildings here too. Since 1999 The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, At that time, a lot of subsidies were distributed, to renovate and preserve the building structure. But the humid climate also contributes here, the salt water, Rainy seasons and strong sunlight contribute to this, that the mortar and paint peel off quickly. In spite of everything, a really pretty city, In a nice restaurant we eat a delicious burger in typical Mexican style. Back at the parking lot we can't believe our eyes: we are completely parked, A large bouncy castle was set up next to us, there are food stalls, Music and lots of people !! Ok, it's Friday evening, We understand that.
Pomuche
morning at 6.30 We are woken up by a loud group of joggers, who takes her snack break right in front of our house. We chat for an hour, laughed, ate and drank – We are now wide awake. We barely crawled out of bed, the group breaks up and there is peace ?? Well, okay, since we are already awake, Let's just leave earlier today. On the way to Merida we make a short stop at the Pomuche cemetery: a very special one, bizarre place – just look at the photos !!
Merida
We continue to a real cenote, We hope for swimming fun and a quiet place to spend the night. We find both in the middle of nowhere just before Merida with the unpronounceable name: “Kankirixche” – a brilliantly quiet place in the middle of nowhere and a great swimming spot. The wooden stairs go steeply down to the turquoise blue one, Giant bathtub filled with clear water – wonderful bathing fun !!
Sunday, 21.01.2024, The sun god is letting us down today, So we use the day to do a bulk purchase at Walmart Merida. Well-filled, we park Henriette near the MAN workshop in the middle of a small village called Tixcacal. The evening walk is super exciting, especially for Frodo, apparently there are a few “hot” Girls.
Monday morning – we have to get up early, because we have to go to the workshop, Henriette gets her annual checkup. When you arrive at MAN, all employees first admire the car and inspect it in detail. Then it's time to wait, they have to look, whether all spare parts are in stock. We now know the problem well enough and are not at all surprised, that a new air filter is not in stock. Short briefing ?? All right then, We'll be back in a week and hope, that the good piece is then there. After the lunch break, the mechanics get to work, I'm going for a walk around the block with the boys. Unfortunately we will 2 x surprised by a real tropical downpour, We find cover under a parked truck !! Against 17.00 Henriette is ready, so too late to continue, So we park again in the square in Tixcacal – much to Frodo's delight !!
Chuburna
Tuesday – 23.01.2024, What do we do with the week's waiting time? – it's clear, first we go to the sea. Knapp 55 Kilometers away from the big city we find a huge parking lot on the beach in Chuburna. Henriette is parked a few meters away and we set off for a long walk on the beach. When we come back we see a police car parked next to Henriette from a distance ?? A nice policewoman explains things to us: We can't stop here, Parking is only permitted in the marked area (because of the turtles ?). All right then, we drive them 100 Meters back and everyone is happy. In the evening more police vehicles come by, everyone greets us warmly and reassures us, that they look after us !!
The next day we feel like kings, who hold an audience: at 5 Within minutes, curious people come by, which us or. Marvel at Henriette. Mostly they are Americans, who are on holiday here, but also Mexicans, Canadians and even a young German from Baden-Baden are interested in us. A beautiful one, relaxed beach day !
In the afternoon I go for a walk with the dogs, walk along the lagoon in hope, to spot a few flamingos. Leider lässt sich keiner blicken, wir machen uns auf den Rückweg. Ein letzter Schlenker – und da sehen wir doch tatsächlich ein paar wunderschön pinke Exemplare. Für ein Handyfoto sind sie zu weit weg, so muss ich schnell meinen Mann samt Kamera holen. Die rosa Schönheiten setzen sich perfekt in Szene, hier unsere Ergebnisse:
Zufrieden schauen wir uns später den schönen Sonnenuntergang an, nachts können wir sogar noch den Mann im Mond finden 🙂
Homún, Cenoten
Weiter geht es heute nach Homún, ein kleiner Ort rund 50 Kilometer südöstlich von Merida mit der höchsten Centoten-Dichte in ganz Yucatan. Auf iOverlander hatten wir einen Eintrag gesehen von einem Stellplatz bei einer Cenote mit einem Restaurant – klang eigentlich recht nett ?? However, the place turns out to be an ugly parking lot, The cenote can only be visited with a guide. Alright, There are dozens of other cenotes in the town, we make our way to the next best one. On the way we are stopped by countless guides and taxi drivers, who want to show us around here – a bit annoying. We finally ended up at the Cenote Tza-Ujun-Kat – a pretty cave with a few small fish and clear water. After refreshment, we look forward to the restaurant – actually looks pretty good. A disappointment at the entrance – Dogs are not allowed into the restaurant ?? So the boys are tied up outside, they can see us and are satisfied with the solution. There are some unknown dishes on the menu, Hans-Peter is brave and takes orders “Papadzul”. He gets something that tastes like nothing, Taco rolls marinated in a flour paste, which are filled with boiled eggs. It really doesn't taste like anything (expressed positively), but my husband is brave and eats (as learned) well-behaved on his plate. Ok, Definitely no parking space for us, which should be recommended !!!
26.01.2024 After our morning coffee we go for our dog walk 2 other cenotes. At one point, a huge pack of dogs immediately comes towards us, a local stops us and says, We couldn't go there with the dogs. All right then, then to the next place: it's really beautiful, a large meadow, Swimming pool and a gruta for swimming, no dogs – what more do you want !! There is a small problem, however: the young one, friendly owner wants 300,– Pesos for the night, but we only have one 500,– Peso-Schein ?? She can't change ?? Ok., We'll postpone the problem until tomorrow.
Later we crawl into the dark, deep cave for swimming, walk and swim again in a neighboring cenote (They can't either 500 Changing pesos notes) and enjoy the night outside in front of our house.
Saturday morning we try one last time, to get the license changed: the next, 1,5 A cenote kilometer away is headed for – what can I say: Here too you cannot change your license and therefore we cannot go swimming – I'm slowly no longer understanding the world ?? They want to do business with tourists and none of them are capable, a 500 Schein Weights (around 25,- €) to switch ?? You really want to help !!!!!!!!
Back at our place, the problem with paying has not been solved – At some point the young woman comes up with the idea, to ask her husband, to ride a moped into town to exchange money – and then it works !!! On the way back I take a quick look at them 3 Oches an – also pretty waterholes – and 10 Kilometers further we end up at Mani-Chan, a slightly more professional operator. You can choose between a package here 2 Cenotes and overnight stay or a package with 2 Cenoten, Choose accommodation and food ?? for 5,- € more per person, we opt for the meal option !! Until then, let's take a look at the Gruta at the square: tiny, deep and dark and with 5 People already crowded. You will be taken to the second cenote 5 Minutes with a small moped taxi. This time I'm pleasantly surprised, the cave is really beautiful. If you have managed the super steep wooden stairs without any injuries, you can swim around in the beautiful water – a great feeling.
My husband was really brave and had the same dish again as before 2 ordered days – he just wanted to know, whether it might taste good after all. And yes, This time it was a lot better !! Still not a favorite dish, but at least tasty !! At night we stand all alone on the property, In the meantime, the employees have all rushed home on their mopeds – Perfect.
The next morning we have the cenote all to ourselves, the employee, who has just arrived, starts the generator especially for us, so that we can find the way in the dark cave. During the dog walk we discover another small cenote, only 300 m away. Unfortunately we didn't pocket any money, so we can't explore the cave. It's drizzling at breakfast (what is that supposed to mean? ???), This is probably the call to move on.
Merida
Lt. According to the travel guide, Merida is supposed to be a nice city, So we head to the big city (Merida hat 900.000 resident, So it's pretty huge). The streets here are pleasantly spacious and wide, But the view up to the tangle of cables is the same as everywhere else. We can park Henriette fairly close to the Zocalo and be in the middle of the historic center in a few minutes. The city was dominated by the cultivation and sale of sisal in the years of 1870 – 1930 correct, got really rich, Unfortunately, the magnificent buildings and palaces are now completely run down – super sad. So I don't really warm to Merida, After an hour of strolling we decide, better yet 50 Kilometers to drive to the beach.
A good decision, The police car greets us friendly, as we turn back into the old parking lot. It's really stormy, cool and the previously peaceful sea is quite turbulent. So we all make ourselves comfortable in our living room, Quappo and Frodo also prefer the sofa.
Montag, the 29.01.2024 – Message from the MAN workshop, the air filter has already arrived ?? We didn't expect that at all, We quickly change the plan for the day and head back to the city. The filter was replaced in no time, the mechanic checks for the oil that has dripped out – and we're done. There's not much you can do with the rest of the day, a trip to Walmart, back to the parking lot in Tixcacal.
Izamal
Target today: the yellow city of Izamal – Everything here is really yellow, that looks really nice. On a tour of the Pueblo Magico we look at the huge Convento de San Antonio de Padua, which was built from the stones of the destroyed Mayan temples. The Spanish conquerors left a small pyramid behind, Here you can look at the city from above after a not entirely safe climbing session. We don't really like it for spending the night, We'll just keep driving 50 Kilometers further to the slopes, refill the water tank and stand on a small meadow at the exit of the town.
Chichen Itza
The weather forecast for the 31.01.2024 has come true: in the morning at 7.00 The sun is already shining in our window. Get up early again for once, we want to visit one of the seven new wonders of the world (And I'm sure other people want that too !!). On the way to the entrance we see hundreds of street vendors with their carts, who are waiting for it, that the entrance gates open.
In fact, we arrive on time 8.00 p.m. in line at the entrance counter – as always very chaotically organized and the best: Even here the cashier can give it to me 500 Do not change peso notes – I'm really speechless. This time we are going to the exhibition separately, I can go first, Hans-Peter is waiting outside with the boys. A few minutes later I'm standing – really reverent – from Kukulcan Temple – such a beautiful one, perfectly preserved and impressive building. Plus the bright blue sky – overwhelming !!!!!!!!!
The rest of the world-famous Mayan ruins are also stunning: the ball court (the biggest, that we have seen so far), the skull wall, the observatory, Church, der Plaza de las Columnas, the sacred Cenote (Human sacrifices were also found here) ……….. everything is in really nice condition. restored. The distances are tough, you're already running some distances, until you discover everything. The hundreds of traders are still busy, to pull their carts to the right places, unravel everything, to set up and hang up. There is an incredible amount of goods – so many tourists can't come. After around 2 I leave this special place for hours, The dogs are quickly swapped and Hans-Peter sets off.
Valladolid
Back at the car we first need breakfast, After this experience, the sourdough bread we baked yesterday tastes particularly good. Mind and body are satiated, we just drive around 40 Kilometers further to Valladolid and parked ourselves in a parking lot next to the Convent de San Bernardino de Siena. As we stroll through town we notice, that, in contrast to other Mexican cities, there are a lot of foreign tourists here – it seems to be a popular day trip from Cancun. On the way back we discover a small alley with nice shops and restaurants – the opportunity is seized – Maybe the food tastes better here ?? And, we are lucky – that vegetarian, vegan Local, which we ended up in by chance, has a nice atmosphere and the food tastes really tasty – so it's okay !!!
And in the evening there is another treat: a light show at the convent - very nicely done !! Here the history from the Mayan period to today is projected onto the monastery wall.
Cancun
The first month of the year is already over – sometimes we can't believe it, how quickly time passes !! From Valladolid we drive towards Cancun, take a short breakfast break at the Cenote Choj Ha. After difficult arithmetic problems when paying the entrance fee (now I believe, that many people here can't do math and therefore can't/don't want to change money) The generator is started first, d.h. we are alone here !! Once again I am totally overwhelmed: this cave is beautiful, huge big, Stalagmites from above and stalactites from below (or vice versa, I just can't remember that :)), plus turquoise blue, crystal clear water – and I'm all alone in here! For me that was now (until now) truly the most impressive cenote.
Strengthened and refreshed, we drive the last part to the Caribbean coast – it goes right through Cancun. Hard to believe, how many hotels there are here – the entire coast is paved with luxury resorts !!
Only 5 Kilometers behind mass tourism we find a lonely place on Isla Blanca, on one side the lagoon, on the other the turquoise blue Caribbean Sea – it's like paradise (except for a few annoying sand flies). The dogs are happy about the huge playground, we swim, chill, see flamingos in the distance and pelicans show off their flying skills.
Of course we'll stay the same here 2 take, It doesn't get much better than that !!! There's a lot going on here – on the water, on land and in the air !!! See for yourself:
Finca Kookay
Unfortunately, our water is slowly becoming scarce (There's always something) and so we continue on Saturday to Puerto Morelos. Do some quick shopping, then we reach Finca Kookay, a mini CP in the middle of the jungle. The place is nicely done, As a special feature, there is a pickleball court here – Somehow it doesn't quite fit with the rest of the ambience :)! Actually come the next morning 4 older Americans, who have a heated exchange of blows. In any case, we are completely alone, here, Only the friendly groundskeeper Beto holds the fort and obediently sweeps the entire floor every morning. A herd of monkeys joins us at dinner, They look at our table from above, jumping happily between the trees- and forth (we are not sure, who is watching who here), they give us a great show.
Spend Sunday as you should, quietly and comfortably in the jungle, A few paths take you to lonely little houses, Cenotes and even a hidden small hotel can be found here. In the evening the monkeys only come by briefly, Apparently they have something different planned today.
Playa del Carmen
Montag, the 05.02.2024 – Power failure !!! Our batteries are completely empty, The space under the trees was probably not optimal for the solar cells. So Hans-Peter first has to turn on the generator, before there is coffee. Gut, We wanted to drive on and have a look anyway, whether we can find a vet. A current health certificate is required to cross the border into Belize, that is the task for today. When we arrive in Playa del Carmen, we park our Henriette in the supermarket parking lot and head into town. Unfortunately the first vet is closed today, we're lucky with the second one: he can issue the certificate, However, it takes a few hours. So in the meantime we take a look at the beach promenade: it's like beautiful beaches everywhere in the world – Tons of tourists, shops restaurants, Bars, everything loud and crowded – Here we feel completely wrong – let's go.
A few hours later we are back in the vet's office and wait another half hour. Finally we receive the two certificates (the doctor didn't even look at the boys, only the vaccination book was checked) and spend the night quite quietly at a Walmart just outside.
Tulum
Tuesday, the 06.02.2024 – what's going on today? ?? Every now and then rain drips from the dark clouds, In between, the sun's rays come out briefly – That doesn't suit the Caribbean ?? After we have completed the registration for our furry friends to enter Belize, we continue along what is said to be the most beautiful stretch of coast in Mexico. Unfortunately, we don't see any of this, The 4-lane highway runs a few kilometers through the rainforest. Every few meters we see impressive entrance gates to some luxury resort, but there is no way to get to the beach with the camper. Alright, we end up in the small town called “Chemuyil City”, Here we park at a run-down sports field. The next rain break will be used, for five free cenotes, that are hidden around us, to explore. We swim in one of them with lots of small fish, At the same time we get wet again from above – doesn't matter, the sun dries everything straight away.
Our parking space turns out to be the meeting point for the truck drivers, A new vehicle is constantly being added, Everyone lets the engine run for another half hour, There is also Mexican folk music and loud chatter. On me, It will be quiet at night – or ?? Or – it was a really loud night: versus 3.00 In the morning a neighbor probably had to weld something, Of course, this only works with loud music and the truck engine running – you can't believe it. All the same, our alarm clock was for 7.00 Clock set (exceptionally, otherwise this device is also on vacation), because we had to work through items on the program today !! Tulum was on the agenda, a Mayan- excavation site, which is located directly on the Caribbean coast. In the meantime we have seen, that the entire stretch of coast between Cancun and Tulum consists only of hotel complexes and we think so, that all package holidaymakers would like to take a day off from their deck chairs and Aida travelers would also like to stretch their legs and work off their all-inclusive buffet. Our plan is actually working – we are among the first visitors, You hardly have to wait at the ticket counters and are already through after an hour. On the way back we meet crowds of tour groups, the parking lot is filling up with more buses every minute, The sellers are on every corner with their special offers – we escape !!
Compared to the other archaeological sites such as Chichen Itza, Palenque, Edzna or Teotihuacan, the temples to see are rather disappointing – Only the location right on the beautiful beach makes up for it. In any case, we are happy, Leave this tourist hotspot of Cancun/Tulum behind us and go back to it “normal” To be able to immerse yourself in Mexico.
Siljil noh ha spa
There is no suitable place for us on the entire coast, So we head a little inland and reach a place at a small lagoon. However, another obstacle awaits us: big is written at the entrance : “no pets” ?? What should we do now? ?? I walk the few meters to the entrance and try to clarify things with the friendly Mexican, whether we can stay after all. As far as I can understand it with my rudimentary knowledge of Spanish, he has no problem with dogs, only if other people came, it would be a problem. Luckily there are no bathers there, so we assure him, that we keep the dogs on a leash and stay in the parking lot – everyone is satisfied. There is even a small hiking trail through the jungle forest and at the cenote (which is located directly in the lake) we can all bathe together. In the evening we have the dream place at the lagoon/cenote “Siljil noh ha” anyway for ourselves.
Thursday, 08.02.2024, Old women's carnival !!! We have not yet received an entry permit for the dogs from the customs authorities, So we'll stay here another day, It doesn't actually get much better than that. The time is used, to plan the rest of the trip, to further organize the return shipment to Germany, to call home …. somehow the days are always too short for everything ??
The next day we continue to communicate with customs – you cannot open our submitted form, we have to send it in a different form. This really demands our PC knowledge, how do we get this converted into a PDF – We're busy for now. We have to admit it, that we are not well prepared in this relationship, respectively. that we have been for now 4 Haven't worked for years and have simply forgotten a lot. On me, It's Friday afternoon now anyway, Belizean customs doesn't work over the weekend either, We're not giving up for now.
We continue on Saturday, On the way we spontaneously decide to go to the sea again. We reach the small town of Mahahual after just under an hour, hier gibt es einen freien Stellplatz am Leuchtturm. Zufällig stehen schon 2 deutsche Overlander hier, we have a short chat (die beiden Fahrzeuge sind wohl zusammen unterwegs und wir haben das Gefühl, dass wir hier irgendwie stören) und erkunden dann den Malecon. Tatsächlich besteht der Ort (knapp 1.000 resident) nur aus der netten Strandpromenade und ein paar Hotels im Hinterland. Im Internet lesen wir nach, dass die Pläne für eine touristische Erschließung schon in der Schublade bereit liegen – Tren Maya soll hier anhalten, auch einen Hafen für Kreuzfahrtschiffe gibt es schon.
Am Malecon findet sich ein nettes Restaurant, wir essen ausgesprochen lecker: Pizza und Tacos mit frittierten Pilzen !! Nachts zieht ein richtiger Sturm auf, auch am Sonntag weht es den ganzen Tag heftig, wir stellen fest, dass sich Palmen erstaunlich weit biegen können !! Zu Hause wird heute ordentlich Fasching gefeiert, dank Whatsapp können wir auch ein bisschen teilhaben an dem närrischen Treiben.
Vor unserer Haustür erstreckt sich gleich der Strand, man kann hier ganz weit ins Wasser hinauslaufen. Beim Schnorcheln sehen wir allerdings nur Seegras – da muss man dann doch wohl etwas weiter hinaus ???
sunday morning, 12.02.2024, verabschieden wir uns vom Meer, schauen uns unterwegs noch die Ruinen von Cacchoben an – eine kleine Ausgrabungsstätte, die wir ganz alleine erkunden können. Hier wird schwer gearbeitet, weitere Tempel werden freigelegt. Die Stätte liegt an der Route des Tren Maya – daher die Aktivitäten. Gegen Nachmittag erreichen wir das Dörfchen Buenavista am Lake Bacalar und sind sofort begeistert: ein perfekter Platz an dem wunderschönen See, gleich kühlen wir uns im Wasser ab und laufen ein Stückchen am Ufer entlang. Abends können wir ohne Mückengetier und Wind lange draußen sitzen bleiben !!
Ein schnelles Bad vor dem Frühstück – echt der beste Start in den Tag !! Gerade als wir überlegen, ob wir noch einen Tag hier bleiben, kommt eine französische Familie mit 4 kleinen Kindern an unseren Badesteg – not, dass wir etwas gegen Kinder hätten (:)), aber die vier plantschen und schreien ununterbrochen, das sind wir echt nicht mehr gewohnt. So wird der Plan schnell umgeändert, we drive on. In Bacalar finden wir eine Wasserstation, an der wir unsere Tanks auffüllen können, am Obststand füllen wir den Kühlschrank auf. Am Rio Hondo, dem Grenzfluss zu Belize findet sich ein ruhiger Übernachtungsplatz – Perfect, um auch noch die Toilette zu reinigen. Abends werden wir allerdings angefallen von Milliarden von Killer-Schnaken, wir verbarrikadieren uns in der Henriette.
Es ist Dienstag, Valentinstag, noch immer keine Nachricht von der Zollbehörde Belize ?? Was machen wir nun ?? Gut, einen Tag warten wir auf jeden Fall noch !! Der Tag wird genutzt, um in Bacalar einen Waschsalon aufzusuchen, die Waschmaschinen und Trockner stehen hier einfach im Freien. To 2 Stunden ist alles wieder in den Schränken verpackt, jetzt brauchen wir nur noch einen Übernachtungsplatz. Das Permit aus Belize ist auch angekommen, nun kann es morgen weitergehen. Bei der Anfahrt zu unserem anvisierten Campingplatz reisst Henriette ein paar Glühbirnen ab (was können wir dafür, dass die alles so niedrig hängen müssen ?), wir fahren schnell weiter.
Auf dem nächsten Platz fragen wir den gelangweilten Besitzer, ob wir die Nacht hier verbringen dürfen – and, we can, wir sollen uns nur möglichst weit nach hinten stellen, da er auch 6 Hunde hat. Kein Problem, Frodo und Quappo überragen die Hundemeute um einiges, schnell sehen die Kleinen ein, dass sie uns besser in Ruhe lassen. Abends biegt ein junges Pärchen aus Deutschland auf den Platz ein, bei einem Bierchen kommen wir ins Gespräch. Später setzen wir uns zu einem bzw. mehreren Bierchen vor dem Auto zusammen, um Mitternacht stossen wir zusammen mit Tequila und Mezcal auf Tillmanns Geburtstag an. Die jungen Leute sind super sympathisch, wir verstehen uns so gut, dass wir uns bis morgens um halb fünf verhocken (das ist uns schon ewig nicht mehr passiert!).
15.02.2024 – den Umständen entsprechend schlafen wir heute etwas länger (!), so gegen 11.00 Uhr schaffen wir es ans Tageslicht. Schnell frühstücken, spazieren gehen, schwimmen und von Tanja und Tillmann verabschieden. In Chetumal wird vollgetankt, ein kurzer Einkauf beim Chedraui, eine halbe Stunde später sind wir an der Grenze. Die Beamten sind alle super nett und freundlich, aber die Organisation ist schon etwas chaotisch. Wir werden von einem Schalter zum nächsten geschickt, zahlen überall ein paar Pesos Gebühren, bekommen den TIP und das Visum für 30 Tage und schlussendlich bekommen auch die Hunde das geforderte Permit. Wahrscheinlich hätte uns keiner nach den Fellnasen gefragt, aber so sind sie richtig legal eingereist – das ist mir einfach lieber. Die ganze Prozedur hat fast 3 Stunden gedauert, jetzt müssen wir schnell einen Übernachtungsplatz finden. Gleich 10 Kilometer hinter der Grenze finden wir einen Platz am Strand, kurz noch eine Hunderunde, im Tomtom die Karten von Belize herunterladen, dann früh schlafen gehen.
