Wednesday, October 19th – we are going to the USA !!
If the weather is nice, we cross the small border in Carway – the officers are super nice, do not check our vehicle at all (we only have to give up our last lemon and a few pepperoni) and after 20 minutes we are in the USA !!! The landscape changes with every kilometer, first we drive through a real lunar landscape of hills, steppe and wasteland, then we come to the Marlboro- Cowboy-Land: there are horses here, Bovine, Ranches, Saloons, tractors and a huge one, wide sky. Montana also has the epithet: Country of the big sky – I would say, that fits.
We drive quite a distance, because the snow forecast is on our necks. We find our pitch at the Willow Creek Reservoir – near Augusta, a big lake, where there is plenty of parking space. I take the dogs on a tour around our campsite – it is super beautiful – place to race, romp, To swim – and not a soul far and wide.
The next morning we can even have breakfast outside, it is so warm here. Unfortunately we have to go on, this is how we pack up, stop in Helena, the capital of Montana, to refill water and diesel, find a prepaid card for Hans-Peter's mobile phone at Walmart and are back on the road. 80 Miles from West Yellowstone we discover a Free National Forest Campground – very lonely on a small stream in the middle of the forest. When we want to get off, I discover a mean catastrophe in our living room: Frodo probably didn't like the new food – liquid diarrhea spreads all over the floor. So first of all, big cleaning, Wash and air the blankets !!!! It really hit the poor guy, on our walk he still has to 3 take a poop – very soft consistency. So there is only light food for the boys in the evening: Rice with cottage cheese. Even during the night Frodo has to go out several times – how well, that we stand so lonely.
A small ray of sunshine comes through the window in the morning, so get up now, Go for a walk and have breakfast. The first thing we do in West Yellowstone is a supermarket, to buy other dog food. Then go to the visitor center, to get some info and maps. The nice lady explains to me, that we should definitely drive down the northern part of the park today, as the road may be closed at night due to snowfall. So we start our tour north in the most famous national park in the USA. The weather is great, the sun is shining and with every kilometer we are amazed. First we discover the Gibbon waterfall, then the Norris Geysers – this is exactly how I imagined the park to be: it is steaming and bubbling at every corner, I feel like I'm on Mars. It was sooooo impressive, that I couldn't make up my mind about the photos – so there are more pictures !!!
The only downside here is, that you are not allowed to take the dogs anywhere, you have to wait patiently in the car. We continue to the north-eastern part, here there is the impressive Yellowstone Canyon with two waterfalls. At the next waterfall, dem Tower Fall, we simply take our four-legged friends with us, there isn't much going on here anymore.
Of course, I misjudged the travel planning: the park is just huge, it's nice 16.00 clock – it's all going to be tight !! This is how we abbreviate, drive to Mammoth Hot Springs, as there is said to be the only open campsite here. Once there we see a lot of elk in the middle of the meadow, but no campsite. A nice park ranger explains to me, that the place is unfortunately closed, we would have to 60 continue kilometers, there might still be a vacancy there. In the village we marvel at the Mammoth lower terraces – Lime sinter terraces with hot springs – reminds us a bit of Pamukkale.
We have to step on the gas now, so as not to get completely in the dark – injury, because the landscape is breathtaking. All campsites along the way are closed, so we have no choice, than going back to West Yellowstones. It's already pitch black, when we finally arrive at our pitch for the night – a small hiking car park outside the village. Here we make ourselves comfortable, the dogs are allowed to explore the area, Dinner is cooked and soon we fall into bed dead tired. At night we hear the raindrops drumming on our roof – a beautiful, soothing sound !!
The drumming just won't stop- it rains non-stop ! Neither the two- even the four-legged friends feel like getting up, so we'll stay until at 10.30 lying comfortably. Then the rattling stops – when we look out the window we know why: the rain has turned to snow – thick flakes come down from the sky. On me, the warm clothes are put on and we march through the winter landscape. It's even really fun, however, I am not properly prepared: my shoes and socks are behind 5 completely soaked in minutes.
Back in the car I first have to dry myself and the dogs completely – then we'll make ourselves comfortable again, have breakfast, phone the children and our dearest friend Uschi in Germany. The snowstorm outside has meanwhile gotten worse – what do we do now ?? The weather forecast is checked briefly, pulled out the map and changed the travel plan again at short notice. For the next few days there will be snow and temperatures below zero in the park -14 degree predicted – on that we have, the boys and Henriette don't feel like it. Everything is quickly made ready and off we go east, 190 Kilometers further into lower climes.
On the way we drive over 2 passports with each 2.700 Meter height – winter has really broken out here, we are glad, that the roads are not yet smooth. Shortly before Coby we find a parking space on the North Fork Shoshone River, everything is green here, the temperatures have a plus sign in front of them and the landscape is gigantic and imposing !!
Monday morning – just before the heart attack !! As always, I do the walkies in the morning, while Hans-Peter prepares breakfast (has become so common, everyone is happy with it). The boys can run freely here, there is no one to be seen far and wide. Frodo suddenly turns right, very purposefully, Quappo let's go afterwards, they both run up and away ?? I'll wait a moment, if they'll be right back – no, they have disappeared. The whistle is taken out – they usually come running right away – and used multiple times, I call or. scream – no reaction. That is very strange, i walk back, go the other way – Nothing. Panic rises slowly and I see horrific images in my head: the two were bitten by a snake, run over by the car, shot by the hunter or drowned in the river ??? After half an hour I suddenly see Frodo walking down the path in a panic – he is pleased, when he sees me and greets me, tail wagging. I waver between sighing and being angry, bring the runaway back to the car and go in search of him 2. missing. Same game again: Pipes, call, scream – no reaction. I run further into the field, completely in a state of disarray, my heart is pounding in my throat. I see the little scumbag standing there – in front of him lies a torn open deer carcass ?? Quappo also greets me happily, must be very proud of his find – you almost can't be angry.
So today we have breakfast an hour later, the adrenaline level slowly sinks again, the boys don't get any food today.
We continue to Cody, the capital of the rodeo ! We really feel like we've arrived in the wild west: there is the ponderosa ranch, in the main street there is one saloon next to the other, Horses are in every pasture, guns are bought in the shops, fishing rods and saddles. All hell must break loose here in the summer, now everything seems very deserted and run down.
A huge steppe landscape begins just behind the city, we find a parking space in this corner in the middle of a wild horse area.
In fact, there are a lot of Mustangs around here, plus huge herds of estimated over 200 animals of elk. When walking in the icy wind, the boys stay on a leash (why :)), frozen through, we look forward to it, that it is so nice and warm in the Henriette. It storms at night, our car is really shaken up. Frodo has to go out at night, I open the door and startle: everything is white, it snows thick flakes from the sky – and Frodo thinks about it, that he doesn't have to go out.
In the morning the landscape looks magical: everything is powdered white, the sky shines in the most beautiful blue. the elk jump around – it's awesome.
Our route takes us next to Greybull, there we get water (is difficult now, since many taps are already turned off) and find a nice spot in the park, where there is good network reception. One 15.00 we'll start the conference call with Mr. Gruse, Errors are read out and optimizations carried out for more than an hour. Unfortunately also bad news: the flame start does not work properly, this is where you need to look, what could be the cause. Mr. Gruse sends a drawing again, where you can see the part. We're supposed to take it apart and clean it up, check, ob der Diesel arrived u.s.w. !! If necessary, we have to get a spare part again – I can not believe it !!
A bit frustrated by the conversation, we look for our nightly parking space and find it in the middle of "Ten Sleep" – a fun little wild west town.
Actually, we have a very quiet pitch – until a big truck parked in front of the street and left the engine running all night (you don't want to freeze) – and no one seems to mind.
Shortly after the village we find a great hiking trail the next morning: the Salt Lick Trailhead. It's a really steep climb, some scrambling skills are required. Arrived at the top of the plateau we have a fantastic panoramic view over the whole valley. The boys romp and play chase in the snow, we could watch for hours.
Then we cross the Bighorn Mountains, the passport is tight 3.000 meter high. Here we have a real winter landscape again – nice to look at, but less suitable for camping !! We have hardly left the pass behind us, we are in absolute no man's land – Steppe, hill, Desolate as far as you can see. Only a few elk hop around, nobody else lives here. We read in the travel guide, that Wyoming is the most sparsely populated state in the USA – you can see that !!
Our destination today is Gilette's Walmart parking lot, Hans-Peter has to have his mobile phone repaired (it no longer loads) and there are other errands to run. As on the previous day, our neighbors leave the engine or. run the generator.
A boring one, lazy day today: I do a lot of shopping at Walmart, call my brother, keep writing on the website (more than a week has passed since the last entry), we're going for a walk with the dogs, Hans-Peter looks around the hardware store, Photos are sorted….. and in no time it's evening again !!
Today there is again more program: we drive to Devils Tower – the first national monument of the USA ! A very impressive one, lonely rock, that rises to the sky. Lt. the information on the information board is based on the age of geologists 50 million years estimated !!! For the movie buffs among us: that is indeed the rock, on which the UFO lands in the film "The Uncanny Encounter". !!!
During a walk we admire this natural monument from all sides, it is fascinating. Hundreds of prairie dogs have made their homes at the bottom of the rock – very cute these little animals.
On to the next state: South Dakota !! At Roubaix Lake we find the perfect pitch – an almost closed campsite. Some places are blocked off by barriers, but a few are actually open. Only one other camper is here on this huge area, Frodo and Quappo can hardly believe their luck – finally pure freedom again, plus sandy beach, Wiese, Water and a few more deer tracks. In the evening the minced meat cake is made for our birthday child, so tomorrow the party will be a success !
28.10.2022 – what a date – today our big one celebrates his 5. birthday !! Appropriately, this must of course take place at a special location – That's why we drive to Mount Rushmore 🙂 !!! The heads of the presidents are really impressive and we even find a small parking lot, where we can serve the birthday dinner.
Balloons are framed by the President's head in the background, coronet, flag, Tie and of course the plate with the 5 Meatballs draped – now it can start. Frodo sees. just smell the delicious cupcakes, everything else doesn't seem to matter to him. Quappo is also invited, he gets the guest plate with the smaller meatballs. In 2 Seconds the feast is swallowed down and landed in the stomach – it seems to have worked.
For digestion we hike the Horse Thief Lake Trail, there is a really nice climbing forest here. The day is not over yet, on our way is the Crazy Horse Memorial – a monumental sculpture honoring the Oglala-Lakota Indian Crazy Horse, carved into a mountain like the President's heads, but many times larger. Nice 1948 started the construction of this monument, probably 10 Millions of tons of granite have since been blasted out of the rock face. Nevertheless, so far since 1998 only the face finished – a completion date is not foreseeable – a crazy project.
A few kilometers further we find a small spot in the middle of the forest, Here we recover from the eventful day.
On Saturdays, Henriette is first taken apart – respectively. we are looking for the flame starter. Hans-Peter finds the part, removes it and cleans the flame starter plug really well. The solenoid valve is also removed and the voltage checked. After that, my husband puts everything back together neatly and we are very excited, whether Henriette will start again ?? Juhu – it's worked out, the engine purrs !!! Now we have to get the zipper together, which is sewn into the cover between the driver's cab and the box. We need just as long for this as for the entire repair – we are really annoyed. At some point we will be ready to start, drive to Hot Springs, actually see a wolf running through the steppe for the first time, traverse Wind Cave Provincial Park and land at Sheps Canyon State Recreation Area – a huge campground on the lake for 11 dollars/night, that we have all to ourselves. I'm going on a discovery tour in the area with the dogs, before it gets dark again.
In the evening, travel plans are changed again: the weather is supposed to stay really nice here for the next few days – 20 degree and sun – that's how we plan, here in the corner to look at the Badlands National Park. We stupidly have to 100 kilometers back north, that's what happens, when you're so haphazard !!
At dawn we are awakened by a loud noise – my brain is still working, my husband has already solved the riddle: this is the howling of wolves !!! Unfortunately we can't see the boys, but the howling pierces your marrow and bones.
Later we go to Rapid City, there we head for a really big laundry (Of course, they are also open on Sundays here – like all shops !). 3 Loads of washing machines are washed, dried and folded, everything is fresh again, clean and smells good. Just shopping at Walmart, then head towards Badlands NP. We arrive at sunset and see the impressive landscape illuminated in orange-red colors – we are enchanted !! The parking space is terrific, we are standing directly above the rock formations. The boys like it here too, the free prairie areas on the other side invite you to romp around.
The morning view from the window is incredible – you feel like you are in a dream world. After breakfast we head to the Badlands National Park, there is a panoramic road with many vantage points.
You can't put your camera down, after every curve there are again sensational views. Unfortunately the dogs are not allowed to run around here, so we cannot do a hike in the park. After felt 500 photos, we simply drive back the road and head for our old place to stay. Here I run a big round with the fur noses, so in the end everyone is happy. The hardest work comes in the evening: from the 500 Sort out the most beautiful photos and delete the others !!
Today is already the 1. November – at temperatures of 22 We don't notice any of that here. We start west, make a brief stop at Wall Drugs – a huge shop with cafe, Saloons, Bars – in the middle of nowhere !! After the shopping tour we drive endless miles through the prairie, Steppe and herds of cattle.
Our destination is called "Lusk", a pretty shabby one, run down small town in the middle of nowhere. On my evening walk with the dogs I'm really scared: there are so many totally run down ones, half-ruined and derelict houses, but they are inhabited, that is shocking.
In the morning we start our round on the rodeo area, Quappo and Frodo could easily pass as small horses.
While browsing the travel guide, I came across a small scenic route, that is on our way: die „Happy Jack“ Road. Because we like the name so much, we take a detour and drive down the street. After the endless prairie we see great rock formations here, which simply protrude from the meadow to the right and left of the road. We park Henriette in one of the many hiking car parks, We want to go for a walk with the dogs in this great weather. A friendly American woman explains to us immediately, how we download the map of the hiking trails and thinks about it, that the trails are very confusing. We download the map with the routes – but they don't understand at first. On me, we're just going to run, it won't be that difficult. We walk one loop after the other, the trail always has a different name – very messy. At some point we try to get back to the parking lot – this is not so easy. The sun is slowly going down, when we post it 2,5 hours to finally get out of this maze. We reach our pitch at Twin Butte Lake in the dead of darkness – actually we had planned, not drive at night at all.
At dawn it starts again, to snow thick snowflakes, when you get up, everything is finely powdered. Today's route leads slowly into the mountains, we want to get through as far as possible without black ice and snow chains, so we drive a long way again. Unfortunately, you don't see much of the great landscape, everything is foggy and grey. All the time we ride at an altitude of 2.500 m – 2.800 m, we hardly notice, that we are so high. We arrive in Eagle in the late afternoon, drive 3 pitches, all of which don't work (once the road is totally muddy, we do not get any further, the other place is already closed, in the third we can't find the entrance). Luckily it works with 4. start-up: a small place on the Eagle River, the highway is quite close, but we are happy, that we have found a place to live.
Everything is snowy in the morning, the sun is slowly coming out from behind the clouds and it's really cold. The onward journey takes us through an impressive canyon of the Colorado River to Glenwood Springs, that's a pretty one, very lively seaside resort, here is the largest hot springs pool in the world !! Let's think for a moment, to stop there and take a bathing day – but the weather is actually too nice. So after the shopping we do a great hike in Carbondale and postpone swimming until the next day. The search for a parking space in the afternoon is difficult again, some of the paths are so muddy, that we don't want to continue. In the end, after a slippery off-road stretch, we make it to the Avalanche Campground and are really happy about this fantastic place. The dogs romp like mad for half an hour, Hans-Peter cleans the dirt from the window, then we'll make ourselves comfortable in the living room.
The walk around the next morning is fantastic – a real winter forest with a beautiful snow cover. Right after breakfast we all hike along the Crystal River together.
The return trip will be exciting again – but Henriette masters it without any problems – she's just totally filthy after that off-road stretch. A few miles further we come to the Penny Hot Springs – located directly on the street, everyone can just hop in here – total net. The hot pools are separated by cairns in the small river Avalanche, the water is right, really hot. We lie down in this wonderful bathtub for an hour, strike up a conversation with some guys from Montana and enjoy this bizarre setting. Totally warmed up and provided with quick-deller, we drink our afternoon coffee with a delicious chocolate muffin.
We continue, unexpectedly come to a fertile green valley with vineyards and peach orchards. A heavy gravel road leads to our planned parking space, Arrived at the place are already standing 10 Jeeps, Quads and lots of hunters. We are also completely in the mud here – that's a bit too intense. So we turn around, drive back and find a spot in the city park in Delta.
At some point during Sunday morning breakfast we realize, we're an hour earlier than usual – the time was changed to winter time – so that's also here. Our route continues to Montrose, here we find a car wash for trucks. Henriette is freed from her mud dress and sees (fast) looks like new again.
felt 200 kg lighter we can also fill up water here – it's not that easy anymore, since many stations are seasonally closed. So armed we reach the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, We are fascinated and enthusiastic at first sight: the canyon is a deep gorge, through which the Gunnison River flows. He's so skinny, that little sunlight reaches the ground, which makes the walls appear dark to black. The canyon reaches a depth of 555 m at only 345 m between the edges of the canyon – here you shouldn't be afraid of heights. We can do a little hike with the dogs, all other paths are closed to the four-legged friends. Then it goes from one viewpoint to the next, one cannot get enough of looking at these rock walls. The sun is slowly going down, everything is bathed in a surreal light – That gets under your skin.
At dusk we leave the park, go to Walmart, then back to our spot in Delta City Park. I'm sure I'll dream of the steep ones tonight, dark rock walls – simply indescribable !!!!!
We still have the most wonderful weather – sun and 18 City – and that on 07. November !!! In the Walmart in Delta we finally buy a large mat for our Frodo in the morning – so it can really spread 🙂 Today we drive to the Colorado National Monument, one 36 kilometer long panoramic route leads through the canyon of the Colorado River. The Rim Rock Drive follows the canyon rim (sometimes you can hardly look down) and from many vantage points you can see the cliff edges and the remarkable sandstone formations.
Once again we are very fascinated by this incredible landscape, hundreds of photos are taken. With the guys there – forbidden – a nice hike in the park, there is so little going on, that we simply overlook the no-dog sign. The time change is not correct yet, this is how we see the second section of the road in the setting sun. So we decide without further ado, to spend the night here in the park in the campground and to drive a section again tomorrow in full light.
that was a good decision, because the next morning we can admire the last section again in glorious sunshine.
Later we continue towards Utah, the weather is so great, that we drive straight through to Arches NP. Again we hold our breath from the gigantic rock formations, colors and beautiful stone arches, here nature was the best architect. water and ice, extreme temperatures and subterranean salt movements shaped this rocky landscape in over 100 million years – our little brain finds it difficult to imagine !!
The park is for its over 2.000 known natural sandstone arches, like the Delicate Arch and the Landscape Arch. We drive only part of the 20 Miles of road, that runs through the park, since dogs are unfortunately forbidden everywhere.
A few kilometers outside the park there is a nice place in the middle of nowhere. Here the four-legged friends can let off steam and we process our many impressions of the last few days. Rain was announced for the next day – so a day to breathe !! In fact, it storms quite violently in the morning, then a light drizzle begins, slowly turning into beautiful snowflakes !! This is really good, so we can sort and delete the photos from the last few days (!), do some paperwork and keep writing the website.
It's snowing really nice – but suddenly it gets light in the Henriette: versus 16.00 The sun actually comes out !! The shoes will be put on soon, Gloves and hat on head – this is how we start a wintry walk. The sun immediately warms up the soil, so that we march through quite a lot of mud. Back at the car first have to 12 Feet get rid of the mud, nevertheless everything is sandy in the Henriette. We're getting comfortable again, Cook, to play, read – our normal evening program. by the way, our bedtime reading just now: "Happiness Is No Place" by Juan Moreno – very exciting, dramatic, surprising and well-written travelogues, in which important questions of life are taken up as a matter of course: what is time, what is home, What is luck ? We find, a perfect read, when you yourself are traveling around the world and such questions arise.
The next day, early in the morning, our friend appears through the window – it's all right with the world. We hurry with breakfast, drive back to Arches NP, see the Landscape Arch, Sand Dune Arch und Delicate Arch an, then quickly to Moab, to catch water and buy. Back at the stand it is already getting dark, our boys can finally romp around a little – they had to stay in the car all day. Tomorrow is another dog day – promised.
Friday, the 11. November: we leave early towards Canyonlands-NP, wonder, that so many vehicles, Hikers and mountain bikers are out and about, until we find out, that today is a holiday: Veterans-Day !!!
There is actually an expedition vehicle in front of the visitor center, also a MAN named WOMAN – of course it stops. The owners come right back, Pato and Cathy from Chile, two very nice ones, sympathetic people. contact details, Travel tips and plans are exchanged, then we start our sightseeing tour: short hike to Mesa Arch, Get off at the viewpoints – we can't stop being amazed. Canyonlands NP is the largest NP in Utah, we are only in the northern part – the views are so amazing, you just can't get enough of these red sandstone formations, the snowy peaks in the background, the deep, mighty canyons and gorges, that seem to reach to the end of the world.
Because we promised the fur noses a nice day for today, In the afternoon we drive to Dead Horse Point State Park a few kilometers further. The scenery is just as breathtaking as in the NP, and the dogs are allowed here on the hikes !! To 2 hours we come back to Henriette, treat us to a quick coffee, then drive to Lona Mesa Campground, a free seat, where you can stand wonderfully. The only condition: one must have a toilet on board, since there is nothing here !! We read in the travel guide, that in Utah 75 percent of the total area is free land – this is perfect for freebies !!!
Saturday morning – it's like traffic at the Stachus: one off-road vehicle after the other races past us, all fun vehicles, with which one can board around here – a huge men's playground !!! Today we drive the Potash Road, a nice route along the Columbia River. There's a lot going on here too (one thinks, it is the 12. 11.) – lots of mountain bikers, Quads and hikers can be seen on the way, we pass a large rock face – here hundreds of climbers cavort, trying their luck here. Arrived at the end of the street, there is an old potash plant, that probably gets the fertilizer out of the ground here. We continue on an off-road route – dem Shafer Trail, which then leads to White Rim Road. It really excites us, to ride this trail, but you have to register and only get after 2 – 3 days a permit, to drive through. Dogs are of course also forbidden here – injury !!! On me, on the way back we stop at a hiking trail, scrambling to reach the Corona and the Pinto Arch with the boys – a great compensation.
Our pitch today is also something special: we are standing on the former Athena missile test site !! A little spooky – but we have a terrific place with a terrific view.
We weren't catapulted into space – Thank God ! So we'll follow today 120 kilometers to the nearest national park (the density of national parks here is unbelievable) – the Capitol Reef NP. We look at the first hiking car park, maybe you can walk with dogs here – as expected, the unappealing prohibition sign immediately catches our eye. Instead we discover another Overlander from Freising: Manuela and Ulli from unimogreise. Of course there is a chat, the two are also on the Panamericana. The men chatter away – as so often 🙂 – on the subject of vehicles, technology and glitches, we women are now frozen through !!! We hope, that we meet again, the two were immediately likeable and maybe there will be a passage together.
We just manage the scenic drive, one 13 km long cul-de-sac, which leads through one of the most beautiful regions of the NP, at just the right moment, a few rays of sunshine even appear. the 160 km long fold "Waterpocket Fold" arose before 50 until 70 Millions of years ago as part of the Laramie orogeny (learned something new again !)
Just outside the park we find a great pitch on Beas Lewis Flat Road – BLM-Land with lots of parking space, a super great all-round view and unlimited romp for Frodo and Quappo. Only downside – it gets freezing cold at night (-8 City).
The morning walk is also frosty, I'm wrapped up like an Eskimo. Actually we wanted to buy some groceries in the next town – but the store is closed – closed for season !! On me, there are definitely enough supplies for today, So we continue on the highway 12 – lt. Guide to the most beautiful road in Utah. The route is really beautiful, we first cross a lunar landscape, then we come into the snowy winter forest in just under 3.000 m, shortly afterwards everything is green and fertile, a few kilometers further we are in Canyonland – and all this under a clear blue sky. We ponder this as we cross the pass, that in Germany even the Zugspitze does not reach this height.
The temperatures are now quite bearable, perfect for a hike: we walk the Calf Creek Trail – 10 Kilometers through a bizarre rocky landscape. We are rewarded at the end of the route with a gigantic beautiful waterfall – knapp 40 m the water falls into a turquoise pool, surrounded by the finest sandy beach – injury, that it isn't 30 degrees warmer !!! Feet are put up in the evening, here, too, we are standing on a BLM property, here in the corner freestanding is really super easy.
Now we have to get up earlier, because otherwise the day just isn't enough – it's already over 17.30 Clock dark. So we start right after breakfast to the next national park: dem Bryce !! I was really looking forward to this park, since it was told by so many people, that it should be one of the most beautiful. On our trip before 12 Years, when we drove from Spokane to Phoenix with Lukas, we had to skip this park due to time constraints. What can I say: my expectations were exceeded many times over: this park is like a fairy tale forest – wunder, very beautiful !! With the tips powdered by snow, the steel blue sky and the red stone it is a blaze of colour – you can't get enough of it.
The same photo is taken thousands of times, you really want to capture this unbelievable beauty. Even the dogs are allowed to run along a short distance, however, they find the snow and squirrels far more interesting than the rock formations – so tastes are different. The park is on close 3.000 m height – it is correspondingly cold here, an icy wind blows in your face. The possible viewpoints are approached, we are very happy, that we are visiting this park now in November. All hell must break loose here in the summer, as many parking spaces as there are here ??
Otherwise we are not allowed to walk any further (due to dog technology), let's follow 3 Hours further and look for a parking space in lower climes. You come here within short distances through such different climate zones, That's incredible. At a height of "only" 1.500 m we find a relaxed, pleasantly warm place with a panoramic view.
Wednesdays (it is the 16.11.) let's take the last one 5 Utah National Parks: the Zion NP. Before we get to the park, it's going to be really exciting: there is a tunnel here, the one for vehicles up to 13,1 is passable on foot – we have 12,96 Fuss – d.h. I agree 4 centimeters of air ??? For a fee of $15, traffic is stopped and we are allowed to drive 1,6 Drive through the kilometer long tunnel without oncoming traffic. Very tense, the adrenaline level at the highest limit, we reach the end of the tunnel without bumping into anything – tel, that was really exciting !!
The sight of the huge, yellow-brown cliffs makes us awestruck, again a completely different landscape and again very impressive !! The serpentine road leads us through an insane mountain world to the visitor center. Here comes the disappointment: You are not allowed to drive the scenic drive with your own vehicle, there until 28. November only shuttle buses are allowed to drive this route. And dogs are not allowed on the shuttle buses – that's really stupid. On me, we can take a nice walk with the dogs from the visitor center, that's something too. Just before we get back to the car, we see another mighty stag strutting about the park with his ladies, Quappo can't believe it, breaks free and stirs up the troops a bit !! A minute later he's back with us, the deer inspired him with respect !!!
Short briefing, then we decide, continue towards St. Georg. There is also a Walmart on the way, short stop, we reach our overnight place: a BLM land in the sand, here the men are allowed to dash through the area with their toys.
The night was really loud for our standards: we hear the noise from the highway, we're not used to that anymore. After the big national parks we head for the small Snow Canyon State Park today – a recommendation from 3 nice ladies, that we met in Black Canyon. At first the park doesn't impress that much, but the hike over volcanic rock is a lot of fun and in the end we are overwhelmed by the fascinating landscape. And we are also excited about the weather: blue skies and sun is a matter of course, but today we actually had pleasant ones 12 City !!
Now we change direction again and drive east. On the Gooseberry Mesa we find a totally quiet place after a very bumpy drive 360 degree all-round view – another perfect day !!
On our route today we suddenly see another overlander in front of us – of course it has to be stopped. We learn Michaela, Richard and her dog Ricki from the Allgäu, who are out and about here with their Steyr. Of course we chat with the likeable Bavarians, before continuing on to the toadstool hoodoos hike- a pretty wonderland with tower-like formations made of sedimentary rock. After that we wanted to go to the Nautilus Cave – but can't find the way with the best will in the world. On me, the sun is slowly disappearing behind the mountains, so we make our way to Page. There we arranged to meet Brigitte and Rene, we met the two of them in Jasper NP in the summer. We are very happy, to see the two lovely Swiss again and we spend a nice evening together in the Henriette. Of course, the experiences of the last few months are told, Tips exchanged and travel plans discussed – a really nice evening !!!
In the morning, an older American joins us with his Steyr, he has just picked up the car with the body and now wants to remove it himself. That's why he has a lot of questions about our conversions and is interested in everything. So the morning flies by, Brigitte quickly makes a coffee, then we start our sightseeing tour: only a small one, nice hike on the Beehive Trail, a stop at Horseshoe Bend (there is so much going on here, It is unbelievable), quick look at Glen Canyon Dam, a tour of Wahweap Bay and finally a romp at Lone Rock Beach – we're just about to make it, to arrive back at the stand before dark. Rene and Brigitte are already there, we have a short chat, before we move frozen through into the warm room. It's extremely cold today, the wind is freezing cold, so we don't step outside the door anymore. Later we go to the neighbors again, to say goodbye. The two Swiss have grown dear to us, We hope, that we'll see each other again somewhere.
Sunday, November 20th: we have to get up really early – a 7.30 clock !!!! We booked a tour to Antelope Canyon, we have to put up with the ringing of the alarm clock. In fact, the sun's rays wake us up and we are on time at the start of the tour. We can even mean 9.00 Postpone appointment to 15.00 clock, so that we can both look at the canyon together. Well we have until then time – this is used for a visit to the laundromat and a quick purchase at Walmart. For the boys there is a walk to the hanging gardens, On the way, the two again have countless admirers, almost all Americans love Ridgebacks !!! Against 14.00 We are back at the start of our tour, have a coffee in peace, then it's off into the canyon: in a small group we are led down the steep stairs, around us only red sandstone walls in beautiful shapes. Our guide turns out to be a gifted mobile phone photographer, he knows settings, that we've never seen before. He takes cell phones from all participants, he has the right attitude in seconds and takes phenomenal photos of everyone – genial !
Once again the impressions are so intense, that our eyes almost pop out of our heads, the heartbeat doubles and the mouth gapes in amazement. Actually we thought so, that we have now seen all the highlights, but this really tops it all. The hour in the depths flies by, We slowly climb back to the surface, completely blown away by these impressions – this tour was really worth it. that has to be processed first – so we drive back to our old location, look at the photos, cook a delicious dinner and fall dead on their feet.
On Mondays we can sleep in – slow motion is the order of the day today. First of all we have a leisurely breakfast, after that comes the necessary housework: Wash the dishes, clean toilet, clean the bathroom, start the bread dough, Repair water pump ... somehow there is always something to do. We'll be done by noon, take a walk to the New Wave (a recommendation from a nice American, who we met yesterday), continue east. Coffee break is at Nawajo National Monument – a nice place with a super nice, free campsite. We are thinking about, to stay here, but we have time pressure – am 28.11 we want to meet up with Hans-Peter's school friend Jürgen in Arkansas- knapp 2.000 km away. So we drive a little further through really beautiful Indian country: endless prairie, glowing red boulders, lonely farmhouses, individual riders and a cloudless sky to the horizon. In fact, we pass Monument Valley on this route – I can marvel at this natural wonder for the third time and it hasn't lost any of its fascination – it's just great. At dusk we reach our stand in the "Valley of the Gods" – it looks very promising, We are already looking forward to the continuation of the journey tomorrow.
the 16 Miles circular route through the valley is super nice, I drive the first part of the route exceptionally !! Dozens of photos are taken along the way, I believe, we have really photographed enough stones by now 🙂
Directly after the loop we drive a few kilometers later the Moki Dugway – a very steep one (11%), narrow slope with extreme hairpin bends – and on the passenger side it goes vertically downhill. The route is not recommended for RVs and trucks – of course we drive anyway !! We remember right away: this slope is us 2010 driven before – when we picked up Lukas in Spokane and traveled the West Coast together in a rented RV. Even then I was breaking out in a sweat, nothing has changed. Once at the top, you suddenly drive back onto a paved road, wide street, as if nothing had happened.
On the huge plateau we find a lonely parking space at Muley Point – with a wonderful view of it 30 kilometers away Monument Valley. After a walk on the rocky terrain, there is a campfire again after a long time – until the wind gets so icy, that we have to move into the Henriette. We can admire a stunning sunset, at night a grandiose starry sky – what a place !!
Today we unfortunately have to say goodbye to this dreamy federal state, but we will definitely come back sometime. On our route is the Natural Bridges National Monument – we still have to take the short detour. the 3 We can only admire bridges from the viewpoints, and (who would have thought !) dogs are not allowed to walk here either. On me, the weather is not so kind right now (cold and grey – we've known that since 3 weeks no more), so we just take some pictures and drive on.
In Blanding the tanks are filled up and the water is refilled, we also have to do the shopping here, that morning (24.11.) Thanksgiving is celebrated. We find our place to sleep in a small, wooded area near Monticello inhabited by many deer. When I go for a walk, I have to put my little hunter on a leash, the temptation here is just too great. It gets bitterly cold and windy here at night, in the morning our windows are frozen. The sun takes a long time in the morning, until she drives out the cold, but then it's wonderful: snowy peaks around us, blue sky – what more do you want. Today we have a real driving day, around 400 kilometers are on the agenda. We cross a pass from 3.300 Meters, come through nice ski resorts and discover the Rio Grande next to us, which is still in its infancy here. The landscape keeps changing, we are now driving through a huge plateau (always on about 2.000 m height), framed all around by mountains of snow. Shortly before Alamosa we reach an extremely secluded one, calm, magnificent pitch on BLM land. Another walk with the boys (they are a bit stressed from the long drive), then there will be a big meal today – ist ja Thanksgiving !! However, the turkey does not fit in our oven, alternatively there is sweet potato gratin, Leaf spinach and a super delicious sirolin steak (They're really good at meat here) – yummy !!!!
Here, too, it gets bitterly cold at night, Henriette has a little trouble starting, since the flame starter system does not work. Tonight we had minus 14 Grad.
We have the next long stretch ahead of us – as far as New Mexico it goes today. The ride is varied again, we slowly leave the mountains behind and at some point there is only endless steppe, the colors have completely changed: everything is yellow, plus the light blue sky – something completely different for our eyes. There are only a few parking spaces here, so we end up with Clayton on one (almost deserted) Campingplatz am Clayton Lake State Park. Here the boys can romp first, swim and sniff deer, everything very relaxed.
Also today we get up early and set off for the next day of driving. We'll soon be through New Mexico, there comes the next border to the state of Oklahoma. The landscape becomes more and more monotonous, the arable land is getting bigger and bigger – so here come our grain, cotton and beans. Shortly after Fort Supply we start looking for a parking space, we'll find it at the Fort Supply Reservoir – a huge bathing lake with camping grounds all around – and we're all alone. Unfortunately, it's raining cats and dogs, anyway I go with them 2 gentlemen for a walk. On the way, the sheriff's car pulls up next to me, the nice one, very friendly officer asks me, if everything is ok – apparently it's not normal, that you go for a walk here when it rains :). A nice local comes by the square, greets us with a "Welcome to Oklahoma" – once again we are surprised by the friendliness of the people.
We spend a very quiet night, the next morning the boys use the sandy beach for their romp. Continue east – dead straight streets, huge arable land, run down villages, rusted oil pumps, Lots of scrap vehicles on the side of the road. At some point the traffic will increase, we drive to Oklahoma City, past the state capital. After that, the landscape becomes monotonous again, so we listen to two podcast episodes of the Nerd-WG about photovoltaic systems and the Artemis mission – very exciting and interesting, we're at our destination in no time.
We settle down at Lake Eufaula, the boys can stretch their legs and explore the area. The place is very nice, however, the environment reminds us of Albania – there is an incredible amount of rubbish – there are couches here, refrigerators, Lots of soda cans, in between a half decomposed deer and a dead beaver – We haven't experienced that so severely anywhere in the last few months.
And another day of driving: across Oklahoma to the Arkansas border. At the huge Lake Dardanelle we discover another super nice spot. During my walk in the area, I even discover a whole new animal: first i think, that a big bunny is sitting in the meadow – but on closer inspection it turns out to be an armadillo. It runs away quickly, hides under a bush and can be photographed there very well. In the evening the day comes to an end with a magnificent sunset, while we try to get Hans-Peter's mobile phone going. For a few days he has had almost no signal and we don't understand why. In these moments we really miss the children – they would have figured that out in no time.
We'll come on Tuesdays 20 degrees and bright sun in Misty Creek near Jürgen, Hans-Peter's school friend, an. The house is totally idyllic, with a lot of space around it. The men first celebrate the reunion with a bottle of beer – in the course of the afternoon/evening there will be more and more – who would have thought :). There is a lot to tell, in between there is cooking, repaired the boiler, calls school friends in Germany – a funny one, nice evening !!!!
The next morning the two boys are a bit hung over – nobody knows, who drank so many beers :). The water heater still has to be removed and connected, this is a bit more complicated than expected. Two trips to the hardware store, then everything works again. Frodo and Quappo enjoy the lazy day in the garden, run, romp and play exuberantly. Towards evening I can test the boiler: what a luxury: half an hour shower with warm water – genial. Later German will be cooked: there are stuffed peppers with rice, a German apple pie for dessert.
On Thursdays we look at the surroundings, drive to the nice little town of Jasper, to the Buffalo National River (America's first national river, he flows 216 kilometers without being straightened by human hands) walk along the crystal clear water in the best weather, then a short stop at the hardware store. The World Cup game between Germany and Costa Rica is waiting at home – we see it on a giant screen, almost like in the cinema !!! Germany won, but is still eliminated 🙁
And in the evening we have a real festive lighting: the neighbor has already decorated for Christmas – and properly:
